Members CitizenKate Posted December 14, 2009 Author Members Report Posted December 14, 2009 If I may, how to you make sure you stamping starts and stops seamlessly once you've worked your way all the way around the circle? Do you just eyeball it as you approach the 360 degree mark, or do you actually work it out on paper first? The first impression I make is a very light one. Then, towards the final approach, I make very small adjustments in the spacing of each impression to land the last one in exactly the right spot, and nudge the first one if I have to. By nature, I like to work things out on paper. I came from an engineering background. But I'm a recovering perfectionist. There is a lot to be said for being able to manage the "fudge factor" on the fly. Kate Quote
Members BradB Posted December 14, 2009 Members Report Posted December 14, 2009 Awesome work!!! This is going to be beautiful!! What stamp is that you used around the circles, I really like that? Quote
Members whitebeard Posted December 14, 2009 Members Report Posted December 14, 2009 This looks fantastic. Love to see the finished board. Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted December 14, 2009 Author Members Report Posted December 14, 2009 Brad, the stamp I used around the circles is a PX006 from HideCrafter's pro crafter collection. The customer who ordered this wanted each home corner and home track for each player to be color-coded red, green, yellow, and blue. I was not sure how the blue dye was going to show up after applying antique. Last time I colored something blue, the antique turned it a beautiful shade of green. So I did a couple of conditioner-dye-resist-antique tests to make sure the colors would end up right. Here's a sneak peak at some of the colors. I think I'm going to try to lighten up that blue a little, but at least it came out blue! Kate Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted December 15, 2009 Author Members Report Posted December 15, 2009 The colors that were specified by my customer will be somewhat brighter than I usually make them when everything is done, but the antique will tone them down a bit. On the rest of the board, I wanted to use more natural-looking colors. Since I antique most of my game boards, I exaggerate the color slightly so it will show through the antique. So if they seem a little BOMBASTIC right now, sorraaay! I would mix the colors much differently if I was just going to put a sealer over them. The antique will tone everything down, and help everything blend nicely. Kate Quote
Members dustin29 Posted December 15, 2009 Members Report Posted December 15, 2009 WOW!!!! That is incredible! Kate that game board is amazing!!! Quote
David Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 Very nice Kate, nice airbrush work and the colors are going to be fine. Dave Quote
hidepounder Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 Kate I'm really impressed with this! It is veryneat and clean and professional looking. I can't wait to see it completely finished! Bobby Quote
Members Big Papa Leather Posted December 16, 2009 Members Report Posted December 16, 2009 I don't think I ever played Parcheesi but might take it up if I had a board like that! Awesome Allen Quote Big Papa Leather
Members CitizenKate Posted December 16, 2009 Author Members Report Posted December 16, 2009 Thanks for the comments, everyone. Well, now I've run into a bit of a problem. Here it is with the remaining dye work, and that turned out the way I intended. But then when I applied resist (latex-based) to the "bright" colors, the blue did something funny. Some areas of it turned light, but I'm not sure what caused it. I did not get the same effect on the other colors. Not sure what to do about it, for now, but here it is, as such. Kate Quote
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