Fiebings Black - alternatives?

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

I've been using the Fiebings Black Alcohol based dye but I'm not happy with the results. Despite multiple applications, it seems that most of the time the dye simply rubs off the surface. This would be great if that was the effect I was seeking, but when I'm trying to make a solid black piece, worn areas are not beneficial to a uniform looking product. Does anyone have alternative method or products they use that achieve better success?

[celticleather]

Have you tried Fiebings Professional Oil Dye? It certainly works well for me, with no rub-off. It seems to dye almost anything . . . leather, fingers, clothes, carpets . . .

[hivemind]

There's also vinegaroon.

Also, are you talking about multiple bottles of Fiebing's black, or all the same bottle? I've gotten odd bottles before.

[TwinOaks]

Vinegaroon gets my vote for deep, rich, black that won't rub off. Do a search for the term and look for the threads with the most replies- we got into the chemical reactions in one of 'em.

A note of caution though- test on piece of scrap from the same side. I had one piece that turned a fantastic midnight blue instead of black...but that was alright for the product.

[ryano]

I use Feibings 306 black dye. It is for dying harness leather and works great. Does not have that nasty smell like the pro dye. Call Feibings and ask for a free sample. They are very good on giving samples. I buy my 306 from Beilers Supply 717-768-0174

[TomSwede]

What are you dyueing?? Old and worn areas doesn't exactly match my criterias for tooling leather so Iäm wondering if you are dealing with garment leather or??

Tom

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

What are you dyueing?? Old and worn areas doesn't exactly match my criterias for tooling leather so Iäm wondering if you are dealing with garment leather or??

Tom

I get whole tooling sides when I purchase my leather, but I seem to have this problem regardless of the location or make of the leather.

[roo4u]

what kind of leather are you dyeing? leather that has a finish will not dye even or penetrate very well. you would have to use a deglazing product first. spirit dyes can be tuff to get nice even color due to the alcohol in the dye if it evaporates differently in different density areas of the leather it leaves the uneven color. oil dyes penetrate the leather differently and so can produce a more uniform look.

[JLSleather]

Not sure where I got the idea ... probably an old '60's craft book. I use the Fiebing's black dye (like you mention), but first dye the project blue or green (full strength) then do the black. Buff it (there ARE particles, but a soft cloth takes it down easy), then a light application of Neatsfoot will "set" it. Never any problems that way, though I tried the oil dye (and didn't care for it).

[ChaChi]

I use the Fiebing's USMC Black on just about everything I need done in black. Make sure the leather is COMPLETELY dry or it will not take the dye evenly (trust me on that). I apply it with a dauber in a circular motion until the entire piece is covered and let it dry for about a half hour. Then buff off any residue with a horsehair shoe brush for polishing. If there are spots of imperfection (and there usually are) apply a second coat in the same way. Let it dry for another half hour, buff it off with the brush, and you should see a super black piece without streaks or spots and it has a nice sheen to it, ready for your neatsfoot oil or finish. I had to buy several brushes and mark them on the top BLACK and BROWN so the residue in the brush didn't ruin my next project.

My guess is that either your leather still has some moisture in it from the tooling process or you have a bad bottle of dye (that's happened to me too)

[JoeNots]

I've been using the Fiebings Black Alcohol based dye but I'm not happy with the results. Despite multiple applications, it seems that most of the time the dye simply rubs off the surface. This would be great if that was the effect I was seeking, but when I'm trying to make a solid black piece, worn areas are not beneficial to a uniform looking product. Does anyone have alternative method or products they use that achieve better success?

I've had the same problem with every bottle of fiebing's black! glad you asked this question. I'll have to try some of these suggestions on my next project.

thanks for all the input everyone.

[RuehlLeatherWorks]

I made a batch of Vinegroon and I have to say that it's an ESSENTIAL project for any leathercrafter. It's such an easy mixture to make (Since it works best when you throw the nails in the vinegar and forget about it) and the color it creates is a deep, rich black. It is by far THE best black dye I've used so far.

[bronc701]

I am new to this art but I had the same problem witht he USMC black. I started with that and after having about 4 holsters with light areas even with applying it thick several times I went to the pro oil based dye. Dont know if it was the right procedure but I deglazed the holsters with bad spots and just applied the oil die and it fixed the problem.

[Feraud]

Just bumping an old thread.

I'm making a tool bag for my brother's bike. He wanted a black finish so I did a good bit of reading about black dye and tried the method described by ChaChi below.

My results have been very satisfactory. After finishing the piece, there is no black rubbing off and the color/finish is a very dark impressive black color.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and this one worked for me. Thanks ChaChi!

I use the Fiebing's USMC Black on just about everything I need done in black. Make sure the leather is COMPLETELY dry or it will not take the dye evenly (trust me on that). I apply it with a dauber in a circular motion until the entire piece is covered and let it dry for about a half hour. Then buff off any residue with a horsehair shoe brush for polishing. If there are spots of imperfection (and there usually are) apply a second coat in the same way. Let it dry for another half hour, buff it off with the brush, and you should see a super black piece without streaks or spots and it has a nice sheen to it, ready for your neatsfoot oil or finish. I had to buy several brushes and mark them on the top BLACK and BROWN so the residue in the brush didn't ruin my next project.

My guess is that either your leather still has some moisture in it from the tooling process or you have a bad bottle of dye (that's happened to me too)

[Curley Fryes]

I use Angelus Black from Springfield leather on my belts and have never had a problem with it rubbing off after fininshing.

[raysouth]

I use Fiebings USMC black as well as Angelus black and have experienced no problems. I do allow to dry overnight and then buff with clean cloth and any residue seems to wipe off. I then follow through with finishing steps that I wish to use for the project. Belts, holsters, cases and other miscellaneous items, and fortunately, no problems to date.

Same results have worked for me when applying a very liberal, "keep it wet" amount of dye and when using a single coat application. It seems that several dark colored dyes, ie; black, dark blue, purple, very dark green, etc; do impart residue that needs to be buffed off before proceeding to the finishing steps.

I follow up with heavy buffing, by hand, on nearly all of my projects and so far, no headaches.

Hope you find an answer that works for you.

God Bless.

Ray