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CitizenKate

WIP: Chess board

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16 SQUARES?????? kidding.....realy nice am placing x'mas order now please..

Edited by terrahyd

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Maybe that's a problem in places where the water is hard, but I haven't had any problems with it.

Does this mean that something like distilled or spring water(bottled water) would not cause water marks from the wetting of different small portions of a larger project? If so several Wal-mart bottles of water would cost about $10 and would be worth it.

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The latex product I use for masking is not a liquid, but more of a heavy paste, which is designed for making casting molds. I use it for masking really complex shapes, but as you noted (as well as others who have PM'd me about their experiences with using a latex mask - some positive, and some not-so-positive), it does have some considerations. The product I use has not caused any discoloration on the leather, but it does change how the leather takes dye, so I have limited my use of it just to areas I don't plan to apply dye to.

Another approach I use for masking complex shapes, that is a great alternative to the latex, is to cut the shape I want to mask from a full-page sized self-adhesive label. I keep my art on my computer (mostly illustrator drawings), so I can just print the shape on the sheet, then cut it out with a hobby knife. These sheets are a little tackier than I like but so far, I haven't had any problem with them hurting the leather. Next time I have a project that involves this, I'll post a demo.

Kate

Thanks Kate, thats what we call liquid latex in oz, I've used alot of it to make molds (which I hate doing cause they take so long compared to silicone) the only other stuff is dipping or balloon latex which would be too runny to do any sort of masking with it.

I might try some fast setting silicone I've taken impressions off sealed leather before and that worked without pulling any of the finish off so it might be worthwhile to see how a natural piece goes and to also see if it's able to be dyed afterwards. I'm finishing off a mold tommorrow so I will do some tests I've only got long set silicone at the moment but it should give me an idea whether it will work or not.

If not the self adhesive label might be the way to go I've got access to a small vinyl cutter so some testing on that might be in order.

Cheers,

Clair

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Does this mean that something like distilled or spring water(bottled water) would not cause water marks from the wetting of different small portions of a larger project? If so several Wal-mart bottles of water would cost about $10 and would be worth it.

I don't know for sure if that's the reason I don't get water spots when I re-wet a specific area of the leather. Another possibility might be that, since the entire piece is wet at the start, there might be enough moisture in the surrounding area to prevent clear water lines from forming.

I might try some fast setting silicone I've taken impressions off sealed leather before and that worked without pulling any of the finish off so it might be worthwhile to see how a natural piece goes and to also see if it's able to be dyed afterwards. I'm finishing off a mold tommorrow so I will do some tests I've only got long set silicone at the moment but it should give me an idea whether it will work or not.

That's an interesting idea. Hope you post the results!

Kate

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Kate, thanks for taking all our questions and providing answers! You_Rock_Emoticon.gif You're such a trooper. I feel like I'm taking a class on board making here..... LoL.

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Thanks for all the nice comments!

Here's the latest progress on this board... I will need to finish the dye work, as well as the antique and finish by tomorrow if I want to ship this thing by the end of the week. The person who ordered it is taking it to give to a friend in Australia. I checked into what it would take to just ship it there, and now I know why I've never gotten an order from Australia!!! :Holysheep: I would cost about as much to buy it a seat on a passenger jet. I could ship it to Japan for less than half the cost.

Anyway, all the airbrushed dye work is done now. Since there have been questions about the masking, I included a shot that shows a little of how that works, and how nicely it keeps the dye right where I want it, and how nicely it comes up afterwards.

20-inch-chess-06_600.jpg 20-inch-chess-07_600.jpg

Kate

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Again, WOW !! beautiful work Kate, just beautiful !!

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You do a remarkable job Kate. I can't wait to see it finished!

Bobby

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That really is a sharp looking board! clapping.gifthumbsup.gif

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Absolutely beautiful work! Your quality shows.

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Finally finished all the dye work...

20-inch-chess-08_600.jpg 20-inch-chess-09_600.jpg

The colors are a little intense, but I put the color on more intense if I'm antiquing, although the tan in the corners went on a little darker than I intended. There is room for a little variation there, though. The colors get toned down quite a bit by the antique. Now onto the antique, and in fact that is already done, I'm just waiting for it to settle...

Kate

post-7-126352053499_thumb.jpg

post-7-126352053588_thumb.jpg

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Hi Kate, Great job, you have out done your self ! It's so nice i'd hate to play checkers or chess on it.

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Finally finished all the dye work...

The colors are a little intense, but

Intense, maybe, but PUR DEE... animated .gif, click the photo [hope that's OK]

Edited by JLSleather

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Wow that come up really nice Kate, I like nice and bright your customer will definately be pleased with that.

It does seem to be cheaper for us Aussies to send overseas. Not sure who you are going to use but I've never had any problems when packages from the US have been sent by USPS. If you are sending to the West Coast definately don't use UPS they aren't the most helpful as there isn't an actual office here and you get sent on a wild goose chase if a problem occurs, should be fine for the East Coast though.

That's an interesting idea. Hope you post the results!

Kate

Did some testing with the silicone and it's the same as liquid latex doesn't turn it grey but it does make it go darker and doesn't let the dye go on properly. I also tryed cleaning it with deglazer and the dye went on better but the dye came out a different shade compared to unsiliconed leather. I will probably do some more testing in the future with some different types of silicone designed for skin but that will have to wait until I finish these projects off.

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It does seem to be cheaper for us Aussies to send overseas. Not sure who you are going to use but I've never had any problems when packages from the US have been sent by USPS. If you are sending to the West Coast definately don't use UPS they aren't the most helpful as there isn't an actual office here and you get sent on a wild goose chase if a problem occurs, should be fine for the East Coast though.

Good to know for the future. The board is going to SA, and I checked with both UPS and USPS... USPS wanted over $300 to ship the board there, and UPS wanted over $400, but it's considered a "large" package, which at least partly explains the high cost. In this case, the person who ordered it is currently living in the US, but planning to move to Australia, so she just had me ship it to her in VA, and she's delivering it there herself.

I will probably do some more testing in the future with some different types of silicone designed for skin but that will have to wait until I finish these projects off.

I'll be interested to hear the results of your further testing.

Well, the board is done, finally, and already been shipped. Here are the photos of the finished board.

20-inch-chess-10_600.jpg 20-inch-chess-11_600.jpg

Kate

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post-7-126360643128_thumb.jpg

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It's interesting how much difference the antique makes in your coloring. I always think it looks nice before, but when you're done, it's awesome!! Once again, you did a great job.

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Kate

That is wonderful work. Thanks for posting your steps.

Happy tooling

Tim

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Kate,

I feel like a twit, all I can say is beautiful.

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No way would I be able to handle that pressure. I'd be so terrified of screwing up the dye work.....

Wonderful work Kate. Thanks for the step by step pics and commentary.

I will need to finish the dye work, as well as the antique and finish by tomorrow if I want to ship this thing by the end of the week.

Kate

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Kate....I knew it would be spectacular when you were finished....and I was rightYou_Rock_Emoticon.gif !

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Can't help but admire your work Kate. I've been thinking about trying a backgammon board for a while - but I know it wouldn't be a patch on the ones you turn out.

Love the way the antiquing mellows the colours down. :notworthy:

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I love the way you blend color and texture into an eye-pleasing elegant design. You have a knack for going all out, but not over-doing. Your board is worth 10X what you probably charged. I would be pleased to put my hand-carved gazillion-dollar custom-made chess pieces on that board....if I really had a custom set of chess pieces.

On a personal note, I know you have been very busy lately with varous projects, including all you are doing here at LW, and I appreciate they way you let us all follow the WIP from start to finish. I know that took some extra time, but I think I speak for everyone that we found it to be fascinating to watch the chess board turn from plain leather to a Kate Special. Thank you for including us on the journey.

Johanna

You_Rock_Emoticon.gif

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