David Posted January 22, 2010 Report Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) I tried Eco Flo dyes ONCE. I threw the bottle in the trash. The dye is far to fragile for use on any item that gets even moderate handling or wear. I honestly can't think of an item that I would consider using it on. I'll stick with that nasty old Fiebings alcohol based dye. It is tough and reliable. That's my 2 cents on Eco Flo.....which is about all it's worth. Dave Theobald Edited January 22, 2010 by David Quote
Members RobDude30 Posted January 22, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 22, 2010 I tried Eco Flo dyes ONCE. I threw the bottle in the trash. The dye is far to fragile for use on any item that gets even moderate handling or wear. I honestly can't think of an item that I would consider using it on. I'll stick with that nasty old Fiebings alcohol based dye. It is tough and reliable. That's my 2 cents on Eco Flo.....which is about all it's worth. Dave Theobald I'm beginning to agree, Dave. As a matter of fact, I returned some EcoFlo dye and some TanKote to Tandy today and bought some Fiebings alcohol dye and Resolene. Planning on giving them a try over the weekend. I also bought some better quality leather and am already amazed at the difference that makes. Quote
King's X Posted January 23, 2010 Report Posted January 23, 2010 Do according to the advice you get here, on the streets, your own testing/demos and projects. Isn't this place awesome. Good luck. Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Members RobDude30 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 24, 2010 Do according to the advice you get here, on the streets, your own testing/demos and projects. Isn't this place awesome. Good luck. This place is awesome! I think I am finally making progress in the right direction. I made another double-thickness belt, deglazed it, oiled it, then applied the Fiebing's alcohol based dye. I plan to let the belt dry overnight, but have already buffed out the keeper and applied a couple of coats of resolene. I applied the resolene with a cloth and had only a very, very, very light ruboff on the first coat. I can see why a lot of folks on here use an airbrush. The airbrush would likely keep from having a problem even with the water-based dyes. Thanks for all the advice! Quote
Members Daggrim Posted January 25, 2010 Members Report Posted January 25, 2010 What is RTC? I was at the WESA trade show in Denver last weekend and visited the Weaver Supply booth...was chatting with the fellas there and told them my woes...they had nothing but good things to say about RTC. Said it's the best and most durable weather proof finish they've found. That's what they use exclusively in their shop on all their finished goods. They gave me a little bottle to try. I'm excited...gonna start getting a piece of scrap ready tonight to see what the RTC does. Quote
King's X Posted January 25, 2010 Report Posted January 25, 2010 RTC - Sheridan Resist & Finish - Brand New Product! The only leather finish you will ever need! Sheridan Resist & Finish is a superior, easy to use finish for all top grain leather. RTC gives superior resistance and top gloss for maximum contrast when antiquing or staining leather. This is a safe non-toxic, non-hazardous, odor-free, gloss finish that doesn’t peel or crack. It can be used over antiques, dyes and acrylics and allows you to oil over it so the leather still breaths. This one product can be used as both a resist and top coat when antiquing leather. Three sizes available. This product has been a hit with our customers. Here is what some of them have written. Chan Geer’s Custom Leather: "This is a great new finish. RTC makes antiquing easy and looks great. I find it dries fast so it saves me time and I really appreciate that it has no odor." Bill Gomer Saddle School: "I just can’t say enough about this wonderful product. It is everything you need in a finish. This is the easiest finish I have ever used. I have applied it with a cloth, shearling and sprayer and they all work super. It goes over all the dyes and acrylics… RTC is the only finish I am going to need." Dale of Grandpa’s Pastime: "I applied RTC over Marine Corp Black mineral spirit dye and had no bleed through even on the flesh side. RTC is the leatherworker’s dream finish." John a Leather Artist: "I’m not sure how best to say this…but it seems to highlight the highlights and helps darken the background." Gary Howard in Farmington, NM writes:"I just had a chance to try your new RTC on a project I was antiquing. It is absolutely the best product I have used in over 35 years of leather work. I just ordered from you and will probably use it for my primary finish from this point forward. You can be sure I will be recommending it to all my friends in leather. Thanks for a great product!" Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Members TTcustom Posted January 26, 2010 Members Report Posted January 26, 2010 Wow, thanks King and everyone for this discussion. I have had mixed results with the eco-flo highlighter and that was due to my inexperience with it. I think that I will have to give it another go on my next project following your technique King. What a great place to lurk about and learn what I have been missing. Quote I am fifty years old and I have always lived in freedom; let me end my life free; when I am dead let this be said of me: 'He belonged to no school, to no institution, to no academy, least of all to any régime except the régime of liberty.' "What we need is more cowbell!"
Members JoeNots Posted January 31, 2010 Members Report Posted January 31, 2010 What do you think is the best black dye on the market? I love in California & can't get my hands on Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes. I'm looking for it to penetrate, not just be a surface dye. I've read all the posts in this thread & i'm still a little confused. I'm currently using Fiebing's dye (black). It rubs off every time. I've tried other bottles of it so it wasn't just a bad batch. I'm using it mainly on belts. Thanks for the help! Quote Locomotive Leatherworks
Members RobDude30 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 What do you think is the best black dye on the market? I love in California & can't get my hands on Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes. I'm looking for it to penetrate, not just be a surface dye. I've read all the posts in this thread & i'm still a little confused. I'm currently using Fiebing's dye (black). It rubs off every time. I've tried other bottles of it so it wasn't just a bad batch. I'm using it mainly on belts. Thanks for the help! I gave up on the water based dyes, however, I think if you try sealing with one of the acrylic based products you may get better results. You can try Resolene. Take a sponge, wet it, and wring it out. Apply a very small amount of Resolene to the sponge and wipe very lightly in one direction on your belt. If you can see a milky appearance, you are applying it too heavily (make another very light pass with the sponge to even it out). Allow that to dry and apply another very light coat. I apply 3 or 4 coats in this manner and have ended up with a very nice finish. After the first or maybe the second coat, you should not see any more dye rubbing off.The key here is patience. Use very light coats of Resolene, very light pressure, and let it dry well. Some folks dilute the Resolene, but I use it full strength. Also, a lot of folks on here airbrush their finishes which I understand works very well. I just don't have the room for that kind of setup. I hope this helps. Quote
Members whinewine Posted February 5, 2010 Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 What do you think is the best black dye on the market? I love in California & can't get my hands on Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes. I'm looking for it to penetrate, not just be a surface dye. I've read all the posts in this thread & i'm still a little confused. I'm currently using Fiebing's dye (black). It rubs off every time. I've tried other bottles of it so it wasn't just a bad batch. I'm using it mainly on belts. Thanks for the help! Joe, if you do a search through the posts, you will find many, many references to the black spirit dyes crocking (rubbing off). Black is notorious for this, and it doesn't matter the maker of that spirit dye, be it under the Tandy label (when they carried spirit dyes), the Fiebings label or the old Omega dyes. (I have never used Fiebings oil dyes, so I can't comment about that product.) But a short version of the multitude of posts is: black CROCKS. You've got to rub & rub & rub with a cloth to remove as much as possible before sealing. Most people would lay down a coat of dark blue or green or brown to prepare the surface, let dry, then apply black, let dry, then buff, buff, buff, buff, buff & buff till no more comes off on a cloth. Then seal. I have used eco flo black and I do like it, because it doesn't need a pre-coating of another dark dye before application, and it doesn't crock to any great extent. While it doesn't crock like the spirit black, the color is not quite as rich as a spirit black, but relatively close. What I don't like about it is that is is water-based, which means that, unless well sealed (on ALL sides) it will bleed under moist conditions (rain, perspiration, etc). Then there's always vinegaroon. russ Quote
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