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Hi guys when I dye using Feibing leather dye then finish with Acrylic Resolene, the dye comes off project and onto sponge? I am applying resolene with a moist sponge. Any ideas?

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Scottish

I've use Acrylic Resolene for years. I mix the AR with distilled water 60% AR / 40% water. I still get some wash, but not as much as with straight AR. Black dye is terrible for washing off, but I don't get blotching of color. Try it on some scrap leather

Happy tooling

Tim

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Scottish

I've use Acrylic Resolene for years. I mix the AR with distilled water 60% AR / 40% water. I still get some wash, but not as much as with straight AR. Black dye is terrible for washing off, but I don't get blotching of color. Try it on some scrap leather

Happy tooling

Tim

cheers I'll try and dilute it down.

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cheers I'll try and dilute it down.

I'm no expert, but have been playing around with Resolene for about a week now and this is what I do: I allow the dye to dry well, buff until nearly no color comes off, then apply a VERY light coat of the Resolene using a damp sponge. I try to only make one pass with the sponge and use a very light touch. If I can see any of the milky appearance, I will make another very light pass with the sponge to even it out. I then allow this to completely dry. I apply 3 or 4 coats, letting the Resolene dry between each one. Using this method, I have been getting very little color rub off, and only on the first coat. I have also been getting a very smooth appearance that doesn't look like plastic.

I think the key is to use the Resolene very sparingly with a very light touch on a damp sponge, applying as many light coats as it takes to get the look you want.

Hope this helps!

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Rob and Scottish

I guess I should also add what I do. This may sound a bit extreme. I was making lots of cell phone cases. After I dye and oil my piece and got it all buffed down, mix my AR 60 / water 40. I dunk the whole piece into the solution then take a wool dauber and rub inside and out. I pour the mix off then use a tee shirt pieces to wipe the case inside and out. I would then gently buff the outside. I would set it aside to dry at least 48 hrs for the acrylic to dry and cure. To finish my edges, I use a sanding drum, scuff the edges then apply dye with a dauber then finish it with a small dauber with NeatLac. After that's dry, I take my rubbing stick or rubbing attachment that's chucked up in the drill press.

With this process, I had good success keeping my dye from blotching or rubbing off. There is something in the AR that pulls some of the color out and I get a bit of bleeding in mix. But it evens out when it's all dry.

Scottish, I don't know if the dunking will work for you if your making shoes. this IS extreme ... maybe just try wiping it on. I know that this worked for a cell phone case in my situation.

I would try these tips on scrap leather till you find a process that works for you!

I hope this helps. let me know if I can help more

Tim

Edited by TimKleffner

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Cheers guys, it sound I'm putting too much AR on sponge. I only use AR on tooled projects not on shoes so dunking will be ok. Once again thanks.

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There is another way, . . . one that has been real good to me.

AR and tap water, 50/50, room temperature to start with.

Take a 1 inch or so, CHEAP, bristle brush. Nylon don't work well for me.

Dip the brush and slather on the mixture, inside and out, . . . I usually start on the flesh side, . . . soak it good, . . . and just keep brushing. You will work up a bit of lather, . . . nice little piles of bubbles all over. Quit adding liquid at that point, . . . just keep brushing, . . . left, right, up, down, sideways, . . . keep brushing until there are no more bubbles.

Hang up to dry, . . . if it isn't glossy enough for you, . . . do it again. I like to hang mine in a window and let the sun's heat do the drying, . . . but in the winter, it's over the heat register.

May God bless,

Dwight

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