Show Me Your Backside Of Holsters Sewn With Boss

[Denster]

To Particle: Yes Tippman ceased putting that thread guide on their machines. It was useless anyway as the thread ran in a notch in the casting and the guide didn't contact the thread at all. It gave me problems as I always pull out about 8 inches of top thread when I remove the peice from the machine and take it out only against the resistance of the bobbin thread. Yes this pulls the loop out on the last stitch on the bottom. I grab the top thread and pull it back in and grab both threads and snug it then trim. Anyway doing this the thread would sometimes come out of the guide and run over it screwing up the first few stitches on the next peice until I noticed it so I took it off and things run fine.

The chisel point needles work better, in my opinion, with the heavier leather we are using with holsters.

Within reason the lighter you can go on tension the better your stitches, particularly the back stitches will look. Using heavier thread and 4&1/2 to 5 spi improves things also.

[Denster]

Okay - I didn't get around to taking any photos of the stitches, but I sewed on a few more holsters that I started on last weekend. I think the bobbin tension was WAY too tight. I loosened it quite a bit, increased the presser foot pressure, and tightened the main tension a tad. Seems to be working much better now.

Question - did Tippmann stop putting the thread guide on that's mounted to the left side of the casting - the last guide right before the thread goes down through the needle bar? Mine doesn't have one, and it's not shown on the current schematic on the Tippmann site - if I put my finger gently in the groove to put slight tension on the thread, I don't have the looping problem where the needle tries to penetrate the thread forcing me to push the stitching handle forward again to take up the slack.

Particle. Are you still having a problem with that thread looping? What size needle are you using. 277 calls for a 200 size needle although with poly I use a 180. If the other fixes I suggested didn't work that is the last thing I can think of. It shouldn't be doing that. Except for maybe one other thing just comes to mind. When threading the machine you do make a full loop around both the primary and secondary tensioners don't you. The reason I ask is in some of the Tippmann instructions they show just bringing it in the back side of the secondary without making a full turn. That works OK for heavy thread like 416 as does the suggestion of only going through one hole in the first thread guide but with 277 is not necessary or desireable.

[particle]

Particle. Are you still having a problem with that thread looping? What size needle are you using. 277 calls for a 200 size needle although with poly I use a 180. If the other fixes I suggested didn't work that is the last thing I can think of. It shouldn't be doing that. Except for maybe one other thing just comes to mind. When threading the machine you do make a full loop around both the primary and secondary tensioners don't you. The reason I ask is in some of the Tippmann instructions they show just bringing it in the back side of the secondary without making a full turn. That works OK for heavy thread like 416 as does the suggestion of only going through one hole in the first thread guide but with 277 is not necessary or desireable.

Yes - still having the looping problem. Can't say what needle I'm using at the moment, but it's whatever it came with out of the box. But, I did order a 10 pack of 794 Size 200 needles along with a few different colors of 277 thread from the Tippmann site.

Yes - both the primary and secondary have a full loop around them. I pulled the manual out last night and read it to make sure - the graphic doesn't look like they indicate a full loop on the secondary tensioner (not when compared to the graphic for the primary tensioner). But, I read the text instructions, and it actually says to go completely around the secondary tensioner. So, that's what I did (and was already doing).

I think I may shoot a video, post it on my website, then send a link to Tippmann (and this thread too).

[Denster]

Yes - still having the looping problem. Can't say what needle I'm using at the moment, but it's whatever it came with out of the box. But, I did order a 10 pack of 794 Size 200 needles along with a few different colors of 277 thread from the Tippmann site.

Yes - both the primary and secondary have a full loop around them. I pulled the manual out last night and read it to make sure - the graphic doesn't look like they indicate a full loop on the secondary tensioner (not when compared to the graphic for the primary tensioner). But, I read the text instructions, and it actually says to go completely around the secondary tensioner. So, that's what I did (and was already doing).

I think I may shoot a video, post it on my website, then send a link to Tippmann (and this thread too).

Aha! We may have the problem located. I'm going to guess that is a 230 or larger needle. If you use a magnifying glass you can read the inscription on the side of the needle to determine the size. Did you get a selection of needles with the machine?

[JeffGC]

I spoke with Ben at Tippmann earlier this week regarding the wrap on the primary tensioner. Wrap completely around it (360 degrees).

[Denster]

I spoke with Ben at Tippmann earlier this week regarding the wrap on the primary tensioner. Wrap completely around it (360 degrees).

Actually 360 around both tensioners for almost all applications, but always 360 around the primary which is the last one. The trick of just comming in the back side of the secondary (first one) is only usefull with the heaviest threads 416 and I think 512 that is not lubed due to the excess friction of the large diameter threads.

[particle]

Aha! We may have the problem located. I'm going to guess that is a 230 or larger needle. If you use a magnifying glass you can read the inscription on the side of the needle to determine the size. Did you get a selection of needles with the machine?

I'll look tonight - not sure if the leather needles came in two sizes, or just one. My 10-pack will be here in a couple days - just shipped yesterday as they were back ordered.

[Dwight]

I had a lot of problems getting the sewing to look how I wanted it to, . . . and a fellow (whose name escapes me) from here gave me his phone number, . . . we talked for about an hour on my nickel, . . . and he walked me through a couple of answers that made most of the difference in my stitches.

First, . . . lose the round needles, . . . use them for vinyl or fabric or hat pins, . . . but don't try to sew holsters with them.

Second, . . . as you round the corners, slowly turn the leather as you are doing the stitch, . . . and plan your route so that you don't have issues with the holster being all bunched up in the middle of the machine.

I use only 340 thread, top and bottom, as well as for the CCW belts I make also. Makes it easy to figure which one to put on next, . . . and what is in the bobbin.

I set my top tension so it will pull the thread all the way to the top of two scraps of leather I am sewing, . . . then slowly tighten up the bobbin tension (usually a half turn at a time) until it pulls it halfway down in the piece. I like my stitching to be tight, and I very often use a stitch gouging tool on both sides, . . . then use a special rubbing tool I made when it is finished, . . . dampen the leather at the stitches and rub the thread down even with or below the surface.

Don't use a stitching wheel with your Boss, . . . adjust the stitch length with the adjuster in the front of the machine, . . . once you get it where you want it, . . . remove the adjuster and put cardboard spacers behind it so you can lock it down from vibrating loose. Then just let the machine make the stitch lengths for you.

Hope this helps.

May God bless,

Dwight

[particle]

Aha! We may have the problem located. I'm going to guess that is a 230 or larger needle. If you use a magnifying glass you can read the inscription on the side of the needle to determine the size. Did you get a selection of needles with the machine?

Okay - I figured it out. I was flipping through the manual and took a look at the schematic diagram. I noticed the thread take-up lever had an adjustable screw with a spring tensioner on it. I popped the back cover off and tightened the screw a bit, and not I'm not getting the thread loop problem anymore. Afterward I sewed on another holster and it worked fine. I guess it was dropping back down just a bit under its own weight after the stitching lever is retracted, so tightening the screw a bit helps it to maintain tension as the lever is moved.

[Denster]

Glad you got it resolved. That's something I hadn't thought of. Goes on the notepage just in case. By the way really neat website.