Members Sixer Posted February 5, 2010 Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 Hey guys and gals, I'm a fan of the contrasting look of white thread on brown leather... How do you guys do it? In my case, I am using white waxed nylon for stitching my holsters. The stitching is done before the dyeing. When I dye the leather, the thread picks up some of the color as well. Any ideas on how to keep that thread white ? Quote http://www.hoppcustomleather.com https://www.facebook.com/HoppCustomLeather
Hilly Posted February 5, 2010 Report Posted February 5, 2010 Hey guys and gals, I'm a fan of the contrasting look of white thread on brown leather... How do you guys do it? In my case, I am using white waxed nylon for stitching my holsters. The stitching is done before the dyeing. When I dye the leather, the thread picks up some of the color as well. Any ideas on how to keep that thread white ? I'm not a holster maker, so I'm not familiar with the construction methods most used, but why can't you dye before stitching? Quote
Members Sixer Posted February 5, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 I'm not a holster maker, so I'm not familiar with the construction methods most used, but why can't you dye before stitching? Well, I guess I could... but from almost everything I've read (online) they recommend the dyeing part comes after the stitching and wet forming. I'm still a newb at this, so I haven't strayed to far from the directions / methods I have read. I guess there is one good way to find out... Just try it and see what happens Quote http://www.hoppcustomleather.com https://www.facebook.com/HoppCustomLeather
Members Storm Posted February 5, 2010 Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 Here's another approach to consider. Dye the exterior, then sew, then try wet forming and finish the inside. When I do card cases I use this approach and it seems to be OK. Just try the approaches using scrap rather than on a full blown holster. Give you more freedom to experiment and not burn some good leather. Good luck! Storm Quote Please keep in mind that unless I ask for anyones critique I do not want nor require same.
Members Dwight Posted February 6, 2010 Members Report Posted February 6, 2010 Well, I guess I could... but from almost everything I've read (online) they recommend the dyeing part comes after the stitching and wet forming. I'm still a newb at this, so I haven't strayed to far from the directions / methods I have read. I guess there is one good way to find out... Just try it and see what happens Sixer, . . . your process is the one I follow. If I wanted a super contrast like that, . . . I would sew it after it was dyed, . . . before the final Resolene treatment. I use contractor grade contact cement on all my holsters and belts, . . . so I can do anything I want to them, . . . including stitching, . . . anytime after the final molding/boning. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members carljc72 Posted February 7, 2010 Members Report Posted February 7, 2010 I agree...you have to dye first and then stitch with white thread. I have used white thread on black holsters and it has come out really nice. Your thread on long "runs" (like on a belt) can start to get dirty or dingy looking as you go. At that point, backstitch a few threads and start with a new clean piece. A lot of this has to do with the type of dye and the dyeing method used. Carl Quote Carl Collins
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