Deimos Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Hi folks, I'm new to leatherworking. I'd like to make a belt. Saw this belt with the double groove and thought it looked really elegant. I'd like to make one with a single groove. So how do you make the groove? Thanks Gooved edge belt.bmp Gooved edge belt.bmp Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm Report post Posted February 7, 2010 Hi Delmos, That looks like it was done with an adjustable groover. Tandy has two that they sell. See photos. Welcome and good luck. Storm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Report post Posted February 8, 2010 You wouldn't do that with a groover, because it cuts the surface. What you need is a creaser Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbird Report post Posted February 8, 2010 well you could do it with a groover but it was not done that way be cause the dye work is even and if you cut then it does not dye well. it was done with a creaser were hard to use to start with but practise will give you that look. Josh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 12, 2010 Hi folks, I'm new to leatherworking. I'd like to make a belt. Saw this belt with the double groove and thought it looked really elegant. I'd like to make one with a single groove. So how do you make the groove? Thanks You can also buy a good set of large (key word, . . . large, . . . about 8 or 10 inches overall length), . . . dividers. Grind down both ends, . . . getting rid of the points. Round them smooth, . . . and sand them, . . . then work out any small grooves with a piece of 10 oz leather (or thicker) with a good coating of jeweler's rough, . . . and polish em good. When you grind em off, . . . leave one end about 3/16" longer than the other. Case your project, . . . maybe just a tad wetter than you would if stamping. Set your dividers to the distance you want from the edge, . . . force the shorter one into the leather, . . . drag it along the edge with the longer one on the outside of the piece, . . . acting as the gauge to keep it the right distance. Do the outside line first. Reset your dividers to the inside distance, . . . have at it again. Practice a bit on scrap leather, . . . especially the turns, . . . works great I think. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deimos Report post Posted February 13, 2010 Thanks all, for the replies. Gotta practice a bit, what ever method I use. Second question about the Great Belt Project: I'm buying the belt blanks that are already Skivved(? right word?) and punched with holes for the snaps. Are the snap holes standardized? If standardized is a typical diameter hole so I can order the right size snaps? And I may want to use Chicago screws intead of snaps so I'd still need to know the [standard?] hole diameter. Chicago screws the way to go? or stick to the snaps? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptGrant Report post Posted February 13, 2010 Hi Mate In my opinion buying belt blanks are a complete rip off!!!! Far better to buy a shoulder...lot more leather for your hard earned bucks. Get yourself a strap cutter and you can get a lot of belts. Blanks that have holes pre punched are not necessary...get some basic tools and save your money!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted February 13, 2010 (edited) Standard clothing accessory belts use line 16 snaps. Screws are unnecessary. Much more cost, and you still have to punch holes. I've seen guys who decided that line 16 snaps weren't heavy enough. Usually the same guy that thinks you need 2 layers of 8/9 oz leather stitched together. These are both possible if you are wanting a weight-lifting belt, or carrying a pair of .44 magnums, or you want to be able to use your belt to pull your truck out of the ditch. Need a #2 and a #6 punch for the snaps. Slot for the buckle are generally a 3/4" bag punch, and the holes for size will be determned by the buckle tongue, #3 give or take (some prefer oval holes for adjustment holes). TOTAL thickness 7 to maybe 10 oz (to keep wide belts from looking too thin), line 16 "segma" snaps. Incidentally, I'm sure the "groove" in your original belt question is embossed, possibly in the same press that die cut the form. If you don't have a press or an embosser, you could cut parallel lines and bevel the groove (or background) but that's a pretty good bit of time. Edited February 13, 2010 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deimos Report post Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) [ Edited February 17, 2010 by Deimos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deimos Report post Posted February 17, 2010 OK, I'm back with another question. Edging the belt. I know there are tools for doing that called [surprise!] edgers. The way I read it is, the larger the number, the more leather is trimmed off. I'd like to get a few different sizes just to see what happens with different thicknesses of leather . Leather will be not just for belts but anything from say, 5-6 oz to 11-12 oz. So what are some good "beginner/starter" sizes for a novice? And any advice, i.e., tricks of the trade in using one ? I mean besides practice, practice, practice? Except I don't want to keep practicing one way if I'm doing it wrong. ("Insanity"= doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result) Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites