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EXPENSIVE high end Swivel Knives???

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One of the things I see over and over in the many workshops I'm a part of is that it is the hand running the knife, not the knife that determines the quality of the work. Those of you going to Sheridan should look at what Al Stohlman used. Those of us who aspire to that level of work probably can't blame our tools. I wonder how many miles of swivel knife cuts he had on his odomoter?

Jim

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I have attached a picture of the tool Bob Brown sold to carve with. Personally he used a sharpened screwdriver with some black tape wrapped around it. It worked for him but that was a different time. For me if I'm looking for at a pile of saddles that need to get carved I'm reaching for one of those high end swival knives.

David Genadek

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I have attached a picture of the tool Bob Brown sold to carve with. Personally he used a sharpened screwdriver with some black tape wrapped around it. It worked for him but that was a different time. For me if I'm looking for at a pile of saddles that need to get carved I'm reaching for one of those high end swival knives.

David Genadek

I know what you mean. Just think, we used to have to start our cars out in front of it by winding it up. Now we have remote starts. I don't know about you, but I think technology is wonderful. Might as well use it while you're here. So if you have the money to spare to upgrade, I say go for it. You probably won't be satisfied until you know for yourself if the tool is worth the price.

M.

Edited by Rawhide

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Ya know....this whole conversation reminds me of two friends in an art class years ago. One kept buying new fancy gizmo mechanical pencils for his sketch work, the other used a regular old number two wood pencil. Take a wild guess at who the better artist was.

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Ya know....this whole conversation reminds me of two friends in an art class years ago. One kept buying new fancy gizmo mechanical pencils for his sketch work, the other used a regular old number two wood pencil. Take a wild guess at who the better artist was.

I don't see that as the same although I understand what your saying. The artist makes the tool the tool does not make the artists. When I was learning all these tool makers were not around and it was common knowledge that you had to do some metel work if your were going to be a leather artist. The thing that people who do this as a hobby do not understand is just how taxing this profession is on your body. Will a good swivel knife make you a better carver? Not in itself. Will it make your life easier if you know what your doing? yes Will a good tool help someone that is learning get better faster? yes Will not haveing a good tool prevent some one with a burning desire to learn from getting better? no If the tool is not being used as an excuse for other issues a person is facing it will help.

David Genadek

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I have a robert beard swivel knife i am selling if you are interested?

I am looking for a REALLY good swivel knife. Any of you know where to find a really high end knife or are they even made anymore. I've seen Stohlman's leather handled knife, but I'd like to see more. Also, where can I find RUBY tips?I have a robert beard swivel knife which has only been used a few times i am selling

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I have a robert beard swivel knife i am selling if you are interested

i might be interested if he's not!

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I know what you mean. Just think, we used to have to start our cars out in front of it by winding it up. Now we have remote starts. I don't know about you, but I think technology is wonderful. Might as well use it while you're here. So if you have the money to spare to upgrade, I say go for it. You probably won't be satisfied until you know for yourself if the tool is worth the price.

M.

I agree with the " won't be satisfied until you know for yourself" statement 100%. As far as starting cars by winding them up,I kind of resemble that remark as my motorcyle is kick only.

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hasn't been a very good year in my shop this year so I'm getting rid of a few spare tools...see my post in the FOR SALE thread..the price for the robert beard knife with blade is $95

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Edited by YRsaddles

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I appreciate the offer and that is a pretty fair price for one of Bob's knives, but these days I just sign my paychecks over to the local Conoco station so I'll have to pass. I am sure someone here will take you up on the offer and they will end up with a really nice tool.

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Geez......that is some great info guys, gals.....THANKS! I guess my only option at this point is to buy one of each knife you suggest. I've got a lathe, maybe I should just make my own....doesn't look too difficult. Thanks for your help.By the way, have you all seen this Swivel Knife Collection? Pretty cool knives there. Check it out: http://www.leftysleathercraft.com/english/crafters/swiv.html

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i'm sure you could turn a barrel the is as good as any out there. the big difference i see is in the shape of the yolk. you could make one that fits the way you want it.

buy a beard blade for it

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Duke/Bruce,

I don't have the old post.... It had a lot more examples and such. I gave several examples like wrongfully purchasing the longest Chuck Smith that I could find since I thought large hands needed large swivel knives. I have since cut down the Chuck Smith knife on the lathe.

Anyhow......

In a nutshell here are the quick and dirty guidelines to consider for ergonomic fitting of swivel knives.

One of the first things that you must determine is the diameter of knife that is comfortable for you. I know from experience that I need a much smaller diameter knife. I have done lots of drafting work and was quite used to rolling a smaller sized diameter pencil which also translates into a smaller pen and swivel knife. One quick way is to look at what size pen you use on a regular basis that feels comfortable for you. Some like them big and some like them rather small.

As to the length take your hand and put you thumb and second finger (one after the index finger) together. This will be the end that you would put near the bottom of the swivel knife. Take your index finger and see where your index finger is relaxed. Now slowly move your index finger up and away from the thumb and second finger that are together. When you start to feel a little pain or stretch in your index finger move it back towards the thumb and second finger about 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch. This is the length from the bottom of the barrel to the bottom of the yoke.

This is a good ergonomic position to start from that will allow you to carve with your swivel knife longer. With your thumb and second finger roll them like you would a drafting pencil...thereby giving you greater control. You are trying to select one that will allow you to operate longer and with less cramping.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ben

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I was very fortunate and had a swivel knife custom made for me by one of my customers at the tandy store. and the best part about it all was the price.free! take a look an tell me what ya think. I think he outdid himself. the only other swivel knife in the world I am longing for is the one that same customer made for my boss. hers was solid brass with an walrus tooth ivory handle, and a ruby blade. and what they say about ruby blades is true, they are awesome!

(for some reason the settings on my digital camera got screwed up, sorry if the pic is blurry)

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I might have a conflict of interest here, BUT, I'll let you all know Bob's and Chucks knives have exactly the same bearings. They were designed by the same engineer, so I was told. The blades ARE different though.

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Hi Barry,

Didn't Chuck work for Bob years ago?

Art

I might have a conflict of interest here, BUT, I'll let you all know Bob's and Chucks knives have exactly the same bearings. They were designed by the same engineer, so I was told. The blades ARE different though.

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I might have a conflict of interest here, BUT, I'll let you all know Bob's and Chucks knives have exactly the same bearings. They were designed by the same engineer, so I was told. The blades ARE different though.

Hey Barry, how can you find your website? I know I've been on it before, but could you post an addy for it? Or someone else, at least.

Are there pictures of your swivel knifes on there? If I remember right I don't remember many pictures, maybe I'm mistaking about someone elses site... I dunno.

THANKS MAN!

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Hey Barry, how can you find your website? I know I've been on it before, but could you post an addy for it? Or someone else, at least.

Are there pictures of your swivel knifes on there? If I remember right I don't remember many pictures, maybe I'm mistaking about someone elses site... I dunno.

THANKS MAN!

Um, still working on the web site(taking pictures the last few days). I am trying to get it up in the next couple of weeks, maybe even before the Sheridan Show. You may have seen Montana Leather's web site, they picture some of my things.

I am not sure if Bob worked for Chuck(that may have been before I knew both of them), But I do know the internals of the knives are the same. Bob uses a different steel than Chuck for the blades.

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i have a couple of barry's knives. i can take a pic when i get home. mine are both 3/8" barrels.

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here are my two Barry King knives. they are both 3/8" barrels. one is a straight 1/4" blade the other angled.

i like the responce i get from the smaller diameter knife

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I agree, I like barrys swivel knifes. btw, hey barry an welcome to lw.net good to see ya finally made it. sorry for sending you so much work.lol

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I've got to agree with the majority here, better tools help produce better results. Why work so hard to acheive professional results with beginners tools. The cost of a good swivel knife is ten times that of the cheapest, but worth every penny. It's really not how long the cradle will spin, or if it's engraved , it's if it helps you do a better job. For people who spend anywhere from a fair amount of time with one in their hand, to those who spend a lot of time with one in your hand, something to consider is the long term effect of struggling with a cheapo, it's no secret leather carving can turn you into a cripple when you're old. So you've got to consider the benefit of running a knife that works smoothly and isn't fatiguing to the damage of years spent with hand cramps and sore forearms. The cheap knives serve a purpose they're great to start out with before you know if this is something you will stick with but if you're going to stay with it a better quality swivel is a good investment in both you're work and you're hands.

I totally agreewith what J has said. Tandy used to have a high end swivel knife similar to the stacked leather Stohlman but discontined it. You are always going to remember the price you paid for a crappy piece of equipment but will only rave about a superior piece of equipment. Years and years ago I thought about getting into leather carving (7th Grade) but the swivel knives they had for the class were this side of painful to use. Another thought is to learn to sharpen and strop your blades and you will also see less strain on your hand and a metal blade will have far less drag than ther ceramics I was using for years.

Storm

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