More Casing Questions

[jpsjewel]

I'm having trouble determining when my leather is cased properly and how often to wet it. I currently use a damp sponge and then place it in a plastic bag for 10 - 15 minutes before I start tooling. When I'm done (30 to 45 minutes) with my "session" I put the leather back in the plastic bag. I'm currently using 4 oz. leather.

If I return the next day to continue working, would I need to re-case it or will the plastic bag keep the moisture content high enough?

What's the best indicator that the leather has dried out too much and must be cased again?

Is using a sponge a good idea or is there a better way to case 4 oz. leather?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

[terrahyd]

HI JPSJEWEL;;

We all have faced the same problem one time or another ;;best answer is a totorial by Bob Park's ( select gallery on tool bar at top of each page, then select tutorials, then tips by Bob Parks ), you shoud find answers to most all your guestions ;;;;;

..Doc..

[jpsjewel]

I have already read that and that actually created more questions which is why I posted. For example he mentions pulling the leather through water while I use a sponge.

That's why I asked the question about sponges. I would think that the leather would be much wetter immersing it in water even for a second or two than using a sponge. So now I'm not sure if I'm even wetting it enough from the get-go. But I wanted to make sure I didn't get it too wet and damage the piece even before I get started.

That's also why I mentioned using 4 oz. leather. I was thinking his method would work on thicker pieces but thought it was too much for such a thin piece of leather.

[King's X]

I cannot come close to Bob's experience, but I don't mind telling you what I do.

I use a sponge to wet my lighter weight leathers if I have to do a quick job or last minute. If I have a heavier weight leather, I will follow something close to Bob's method. I don't use a box, but I will use a plastic bag and just set it on my granite block overnight. I have also used the method of dunking my leather and then setting on my block with a piece of glass on top to set up overnight. Both methods have work well. I guess it just depends on my mood. Oh, my water also has Pro-Carve in it.

The thing that you need to look for that is more important is how your leather feels. For instance, is it cool to the touch? How does it feel when you place the grain side up to your cheek? Cool/cold is good, hot or normal would signify that the moisture is gone. The color is another factor, but you can not depend on it because of the different leathers. I have used Tandy leather, which is bleached and the color is different. Hermann Oak leather which is what I use now shows a different color when wet and dry. I can judge by the color in HO, but not Tandy.

Now, I have found that lighter leather will dry out faster than thicker leather. If my lighter leather appears to be dry, I will turn it over and wet the back. I will then keep it that way on my granite block and allow it to set in for about 15-30 mins until it absorbs it. The time is not crucial, you can check it to make sure it sets in and is ready. You can always leave it longer depending on how it cuts or tools. Play with it.

Remember, I am a hobbyist and do not do this everyday like others. Maybe someone else will chime in to help you.

Good luck

[ClayB]

You are not going to ruin your project by getting it too wet with your initial wetting. Dunking your leather in water is probably going to make it wetter than using a sponge. I don't think there is anything wrong with either method but the wetter it is, the longer you are going to have to wait before you can start to tool. By dunking it, there's probably a better chance that the moisture is going to get all the way to the center of the leather, especially on heavier leather. Putting it in a plastic bag, or under glass is going to help the moisture even out throughout the leather too. However you wet it, you have to wait until the leather starts to return to it's original color before you can start carving on it. Proper moisture content is going to vary with the leather you are using. It's something you just have to play with to see what works best.

Usually when I have to quit working on a project I'll add a little moisture to the back before I place it in a bag and put it in the refrigerator. Then when you take it back out, it should be pretty close to ready to go again. I also add water to the back if it starts to dry out when I'm working on it if the leather isn't backed with something to keep it from stretching. If the leather is cemented to cardboard or has tape on the back (or another method to keep it from stretching) you can add a little water to the front with a damp sponge.

I just refered to Paul Burnett's free lessons on his Painting Cow website in another post. There is a lot of good information in them. He has one lesson that deals with Leather Humiditythat you should check out.

[jpsjewel]

I just refered to Paul Burnett's free lessons on his Painting Cow website in another post. There is a lot of good information in them. He has one lesson that deals with Leather Humiditythat you should check out.

Thanks for the link! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Edited March 6, 2010 by jpsjewel

[skipj]

When I took a swivel knife class from Chan Geer at Wickenburg, he had us wet the carving leather with a sponge front and back, then place on our stamping stone to case. I seemed to work quite quickly.

SkipJ