Kimber Ultra Carry Ii

[JoshDuvall]

I have a customer wanting me to make him a holster for his Kimber Ultra Carry II (3") and I can't find a dummy gun for it or anything even remotely close. I was wondering what everyones opinions were on molding holsters with the actual gun and if so what precautions should be taken in doing so? I just honestly don't want to mess up the finish on a customers nice pistol and was wondering just how safe it is to mold with the actual gun? Or does anybody know where I could get a dummy for this gun? Thanks for all the help.

Edited March 10, 2010 by JoshDuvall

[MADMAX22]

Not sure where to get dummy guns as the only holsters Ive made have had the actual gun.

OK when using the real gun make sure it is unloaded first thing. Obviously right, pretty much make sure there is no ammo in the area at all and double check before you get to the next step.

I then wrap the gun in saran wrap or similer. This will protect the gun from any moisture or anything else in the area. Also this will keep any gun oil from getting on a unfinished holster. Let the customer do that lol.

Then proceed as normal. Ive done this on about 3 or 4 holsters and it worked out great each time.

One other thing, if you are using a press of any kind make sure to put a empty clip (mag) in the gun to ensure structural integrity of the grip area. Dont know if this is necessary but Ive heard its a good precaution.

[Tac]

I have made numerous (probably close to 100 if I had to guess) holsters using the actual firearm, rather than a bluegun or cast mold.

I do all of my molding by hand, as I do not have a press, and I use the procedure that Max outlined above. The only difference that I would add is that before I wrap the pistol in pastic wrap, I usually give it a thin coat of oil (applied with my finger), this will help prevent rust in the event that the plastic wrap tears or gets a hole in it while the gun is in the wet holster, and it also helps the plastic wrap stick to the surface of the gun. Don't get wild with the plastic wrap (one to two layers is enough) or you will loose some detail in your molding.

One other word of causion when using the customer's gun.. be careful when boning around the sights or near the edge of the leather near the gun. I would hate to have to explain a gouge in the grips or finish because I slipped with a boning tool or the like and hit the gun.. (or that I broke off a thin bladed front sight because I was too aggressive with my boning/molding.)

-Tac

[Denster]

I use real guns for 90% of my holsters making. This is the way I do it. I give the gun a coat of Johnson's paste wax. The stuff in the yellow and red can from the household section at Kroger's. Wait for it to dry then buff out. It does a great job of protecting the gun from the wet holster and the wet holster from reacting with the steel of the gun. I have several blued guns that have been used to mold several hundred holsters and still look like new.

As an aside all of my personal firearms have the metal waxed for regular use. I have a highly acidic system and can almost rust metal by looking at it. Haven't had a problem with rust in thirty years since I started doing this. Trick I learned from the State Troopers after I asked how they kept their blued revolvers looking so good when they were out in all kinds of inclement weather.

[BigRiverLeather]

Rings has the 3" 1911 mold as that is where I got mine. It can be used for most 3" 1911's. www.blueguns.com

Duncan also has a 3" Ultra Raptor which will work for you. DUNCAN CUSTOMS, INC. 501 SALZBURG AVE.BAY CITY, MI 48706(989) 894-669-6691 www.duncansoutdoor.com

[JoshDuvall]

Rings has the 3" 1911 mold as that is where I got mine. It can be used for most 3" 1911's. www.blueguns.com

Duncan also has a 3" Ultra Raptor which will work for you. DUNCAN CUSTOMS, INC. 501 SALZBURG AVE.BAY CITY, MI 48706(989) 894-669-6691 www.duncansoutdoor.com

Is the 3" 1911 you're refering to from Rings the Springfield Micro Compact 1911? If so how close is it to the Kimber Ultra Carry II? I can't seem to find consistent specs on the Springfield Micro. Thanks for all the help.

[BigRiverLeather]

Is the 3" 1911 you're refering to from Rings the Springfield Micro Compact 1911? If so how close is it to the Kimber Ultra Carry II? I can't seem to find consistent specs on the Springfield Micro. Thanks for all the help.

Since it is a 1911 it basically is the same exact platform. There will be no difference in the slide or trigger gaurd so everythign will fit right. I've used my Rings mold for Kimbers and the EMP which is a 9mm but the same frame as the .45.

The only 1911 that I've run into that was different, other than a custom job, was Sigs 1911s. The front of their dust cover is shaped differently. they just had to be different

However, I used a std Commander mold and the Sig fit even with that difference.

Be aware the Rings micro (as well as the Kimber from Duncan) is not cocked and locked. You will either need to form that in your holster by hand or, I've got 1911 safety and ground off the old one, drilled the mold and mounted the new safety in that position.

[mdmorgan]

I almost always use the real gun. I have used my Kimber to mould maybe 50 holsters. I have never used plastic rap and I have never had a problem. if the leather is cased as it should be, you wont get the gun very wet, and I just strip, clean and oil the weapon when I am finished. Never had a problem. Be careful with the blue guns, if it dosen't say "cocked and locked" it isn't!

[JoshDuvall]

Since it is a 1911 it basically is the same exact platform. There will be no difference in the slide or trigger gaurd so everythign will fit right. I've used my Rings mold for Kimbers and the EMP which is a 9mm but the same frame as the .45.

The only 1911 that I've run into that was different, other than a custom job, was Sigs 1911s. The front of their dust cover is shaped differently. they just had to be different

However, I used a std Commander mold and the Sig fit even with that difference.

Be aware the Rings micro (as well as the Kimber from Duncan) is not cocked and locked. You will either need to form that in your holster by hand or, I've got 1911 safety and ground off the old one, drilled the mold and mounted the new safety in that position.

I've not made a holster for a gun to be carried cocked and locked yet but had a question about it and this may sound stupid but, the only difference in molding the holster would be molding around the slide/thumb safety correct? Or I could be totally wrong.

[mdmorgan]

I've not made a holster for a gun to be carried cocked and locked yet but had a question about it and this may sound stupid but, the only difference in molding the holster would be molding around the slide/thumb safety correct? Or I could be totally wrong.

Yes, if you mould a sweat shield with a saftey-off blue gun, it can cause the saftey to switch off when holstering the weapon.

[Shorts]

Ring's 3" Springfield Micro will work for all your 3" 1911 needs.

Safety off hammer down molds will not hurt your holsters. I've had not one holster come back for complaints it knocks the safety off. My own personal holster does not knock the safety off.

Don't over think it.

As for using the actual gun, I add extra oil then wrap in saran wrap and mold away. When you pull the gun out, unwrap, wipe down with some Hoppes 9 and lightly reoil.

Edited March 12, 2010 by Shorts

[$$hobby]

so far, all of the holsters i have made have been made using the real mccoy. i bought a box of those heavy duty large zip lock bags and use them. they hold up well and if they dont, just use another one. usually the cased leather isnt dripping wet, so water migration isnt an issue.

i will say that i dont have a press, so i use my hands and a board. if i did have a press, im not sure i would use a real gun tho.

i will also say tho, that some of the fancy Kimber finishs dont hold up well. so, depending on the finish, you may want to treat it a tad more carefully.

Edited March 12, 2010 by $$hobby

[JoelR]

I'm currently making a holster for a Kimber 4". Controls are much different from my bone stock Colt: extended ambi safety, extended slide release, extended beaver-tail. May be add-ons, probably, not sure. I've only made a few holsters to this point, but as I see that most of the guns I've worked on have special configurations, I've reluctantly decided to always ask for the gun for the molding work. Can't go wrong that way. In fact, had a guy show me the fit of a plastic holster with a Glock blue gun vs the actual Glock and the blue gun fell out of the holster when turned upside down but held the real gun securly. Again, can't go wrong with the real thing.