Members memper Posted March 25, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) I was also advised to use antiquing. I am not tooling the leather but I wish to bring out the distressed look. My leather has many wrinkles and some light scuffs etc. Will antique stain the lighter tan dye? Do I need neatsfoot oil first? Antique first or dye first? Do I need to wet the leather first? I am clear as to how to get my effects, I am not clear about the steps. Does it go like this?: -Neatsfoot oil (let dry for 24hrs.) -Spray lightly with water -Antique (removing quickly after applying) -Tan dye -Black dye -Back and forth with the Tan and Black to get good blends and effects -Leather dressing Edited March 25, 2010 by memper Quote
MADMAX22 Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 Anitque is not a good idea for seats. It can be used but after a little use it will end up on your pants and not on the seat. There are a few ways to use it. One is as a stain of sorts. This is harder to control in my experience. You would use this after oiling and before sealing. Normally antique is used after dying and first sealing, then antique, then seal some more. Generally I finish the item, clean with deglazer or something similer, dye the project let dry and buff. Then oil and let sit over night. Then follow up with a sealer of your choice 1 or 2 coats. This acts as a resist for the antique. Apply the antique then buff depending on type of antique. Then after thats dry seal it again with a your sealer of choice. However like I said with antique you gotta be careful with things like holsters and seats. Seats take a tremendous amount of abuse just from general use. Take a 250lb guy bouncing around on the thing with a layer of jeans rubbing on it all the time and its gonna put any finish to the test. Quote
Members memper Posted March 25, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 25, 2010 So it might be a waste of time and money. I guess the small fissures and dents will fill with the dye. Just gotta get it in there I suppose. Thanks. Quote
outcast Posted March 26, 2010 Report Posted March 26, 2010 (edited) Anitque is not a good idea for seats. It can be used but after a little use it will end up on your pants and not on the seat. There are a few ways to use it. One is as a stain of sorts. This is harder to control in my experience. You would use this after oiling and before sealing. Normally antique is used after dying and first sealing, then antique, then seal some more. Generally I finish the item, clean with deglazer or something similer, dye the project let dry and buff. Then oil and let sit over night. Then follow up with a sealer of your choice 1 or 2 coats. This acts as a resist for the antique. Apply the antique then buff depending on type of antique. Then after thats dry seal it again with a your sealer of choice. However like I said with antique you gotta be careful with things like holsters and seats. Seats take a tremendous amount of abuse just from general use. Take a 250lb guy bouncing around on the thing with a layer of jeans rubbing on it all the time and its gonna put any finish to the test. If the antique was mixed with tankote wouldn't that help seal the antique into the blemishs & wrinkles? Then after seal with more tankote, or whatever, then pecards, or montana pitch blend to make it water resistant. David Theobald uses antiques all the time on his seats, and does a lot of them. Dave ... you there Dave? (cheesh & chong). Edited March 26, 2010 by outcast Quote Steve I am not of this world....set apart....an outcast. http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/outcastleatherworx/
MADMAX22 Posted March 26, 2010 Report Posted March 26, 2010 If the antique was mixed with tankote wouldn't that help seal the antique into the blemishs & wrinkles? Then after seal with more tankote, or whatever, then pecards, or montana pitch blend to make it water resistant. David Theobald uses antiques all the time on his seats, and does a lot of them. Dave ... you there Dave? (cheesh & chong). That would probably work. Yeah David is the master with seats. If he gives you any advice I would take it. He has helped me when I did mine a while back. I just didnt realize he ever used antiques though. I could be totally wrong but thought all he did was very nice tooling and dying. Quote
outcast Posted March 26, 2010 Report Posted March 26, 2010 That would probably work. Yeah David is the master with seats. If he gives you any advice I would take it. He has helped me when I did mine a while back. I just didnt realize he ever used antiques though. I could be totally wrong but thought all he did was very nice tooling and dying. For sure he does very nice tooling, and dying, but I think he uses Fiebings antique also. Busted Lifter is another seat maker who uses antique. I don't know how they seal it to prevent it from ending up on the seat of denim blue jeans tho. Quote Steve I am not of this world....set apart....an outcast. http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/outcastleatherworx/
David Posted March 26, 2010 Report Posted March 26, 2010 (edited) I do use antique paste all the time on seats. I only use the alcohol based stains. On this seat I kept working back and forth from dark to light and medium colors. I used black, dark brown, medium brown, sheridan and buckskin dye; all by Fiebings. I show pics of the seat not because I think it is so terrific but to show the results when the dye is applied nearly dry on a cloth. I used sheriday antique paste when I was done to help blend all the colors. A final coat of leather balm with atom wax as the only finish. Dave Edited March 26, 2010 by David Quote
MADMAX22 Posted March 27, 2010 Report Posted March 27, 2010 My mistake, wish I had a better memory. Thanks for posting David and nice looking seat by the way. Quote
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