Rex Riveter Question

[ryano]

Bruce and Kate,

Short on time here, but wanted to let you know to take your riveter apart first to see how it connects up top by the handle. There were 2 different kinds made. One anvil is threaded and the other one isn't. I will take some pictures of the different styles of riveters later tonight.

Kate, something can be done with your wall mounted riveter so you can use it. I will explain later. Gotta go.

[ryano]

Hello,

I have been super busy the past couple of days and have not had time to post any pictures of the different anvils. It should calm down by the end of the week.

The pictures will answer the question about the Model T riveter. Because the Rex riveter with the tube and the upper drive anvil is not the correct riveter to set the rivets for brake linings. Here is an ebay link to the correct hand operated riveter for brake linings. It allows the rivet to be set below the surface of the brake lining:

http://cgi.ebay.com/lg-old-vintage-acme-riveter-farm-leather-rivet-tool_W0QQitemZ120537892643QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFolk_Art?hash=item1c109e4723

[cdthayer]

Wow, thanks for the information on these old riveters. I have had a REX 27 that came off of the ranch where my family pioneered, but I never knew what kind of rivets that it takes. I was led to believe that it was for brake linings. I just bought a hand riveter this month for the first tube rivets that I've ever needed to set, so I've never had any around.

I picked up another REX 27 in an auction last year, along with a Pomeroy that is very similar. I included some quick snapshots of them, and the information cast into them is:

REX - 27 - Pat Oct 9 1900

The Gem Set - Patd Mar 9 09 - N.C. Pomeroy - Inventor

I wonder if the Gem Set riveter is designed for the same type rivet? The tubes and anvils look the same size.

Now maybe I can get some rivets (5/16" Head, 1/8" tube) and put my family's old REX 27 back into use at my shop.

CD in Oklahoma

thayerrags.com

[ryano]

CD,

The riveters take the #1(104) rivets which have a 5/16 head and a .140" body. I would use brass or chrome brass rivets. They are available from Weaver's, Beiler's and many more places. This is the standard size rivet for leather. You can still use the 1/8" rivets if you like though. Just a little FYI.

[cdthayer]

The riveters take the #1(104) rivets which have a 5/16 head and a .140" body....use brass or chrome brass rivets. ....the standard size rivet for leather.....can still use the 1/8" rivets if you like .....

Thanks Ryano. That helps me learn more about rivets. Looks like some places have small assortments too. I won't set very many in my line of work, but they come in handy once in a while.

The old REX 27 pictured above cleaned up pretty good with a wire brush and sewing machine oil. I'll just need to wipe it down a few more times to get all of the excess oil off of it before I get it close to anything. It'll probably be dried out enough before I get some rivets and have a need for it down the road.

CD in Oklahoma

thayerrags.com

[Kate]

<SNIP>

Kate, something can be done with your wall mounted riveter so you can use it. I will explain later. Gotta go.

Resurrecting the thread to go in another direction -

I have figured out something ELSE for the wall mounted riveter to do as a second career. BUT, I need to figure out an oddball thread pattern first.

In looking for a more efficient way to punch a LOT of holes (nearly 900 of them, to be accurate - centered on straps and evenly spaced, no less - big commission job) I have gone from

A: OMG, this is going to make me CRAZY doing this much - and I'll waste a lot of leather in the process

to

B: WOW!!! look at that cranked automatic hole puncher in Weaver's equipment list! works just like a sewing machine, and man is it cool - but it's $1500 all told. NOT gonna happen.....

to

C: OK there is the foot press too, that could be ordered up with stuff to do the job - still be eyeballing spacing, but a finger jig would solve most of that, strap guide is an easy thing to do - BUT that's still coming in at over $500 to get set up.

THEN I had a brainstorm (well, OK, tempest in a teacup is more like it, with my brain, but whatever.

The wall mounted press - anvil will screw down to accept either a half-inch dia. brass anvil, OR a hard leather pad,

AND the gap at bottom of stroke is "just about right" to accept the punch tubes from my little Maxi Punch set (ooollldie, Tandy part #1770, back when they were made in JAPAN out of pretty decent steel).

Now the fun part - thread on the punch tubes seemingly specs out as 10mm x 1.0 mm - NOT standard metric. It does seem to be kinda standard for bicycles (axle and chainstack nuts) and some brakeline nuts on ebay GB. I have an old junker bike, tried that axle nut from it last night - nope, only runs about two threads in and sticks - NOT a 1.0mm pitch. Can't find doggone micrometer to measure diameter for certain. Looked again at thread pitch under strong light/strong glass with the thread gauge, and yes, that part IS 1.0mm. Need to find micrometer....

What I'd love to know (before ordering in this size nut to attach to the ram of the press) is if I am actually REALLY looking at a 10mm x 1.0 mm thread on the punch tubes.

Are there any machinist types out there who have one of these little MAxi Punch sets to check it out? If I can just stick one of those big axle nuts onto the tip of the press ram, I am home to glory. Well, sort of

Kate

[Art]

Hi Kate,

Go to a bike shop, if I remember correctly, the 1mm pitch was used on 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, and 15mm diameters for darned everything on the bike. Anyway, they may have a tap and die set with those sizes, and you can use the dies as a screw check device to ascertain the actual size. Crazy thing was, all the Italian stuff was SAE. Japanese and Chinese stuff was always metric.

Art

Resurrecting the thread to go in another direction -

I have figured out something ELSE for the wall mounted riveter to do as a second career. BUT, I need to figure out an oddball thread pattern first.

In looking for a more efficient way to punch a LOT of holes (nearly 900 of them, to be accurate - centered on straps and evenly spaced, no less - big commission job) I have gone from

A: OMG, this is going to make me CRAZY doing this much - and I'll waste a lot of leather in the process

to

B: WOW!!! look at that cranked automatic hole puncher in Weaver's equipment list! works just like a sewing machine, and man is it cool - but it's $1500 all told. NOT gonna happen.....

to

C: OK there is the foot press too, that could be ordered up with stuff to do the job - still be eyeballing spacing, but a finger jig would solve most of that, strap guide is an easy thing to do - BUT that's still coming in at over $500 to get set up.

THEN I had a brainstorm (well, OK, tempest in a teacup is more like it, with my brain, but whatever.

The wall mounted press - anvil will screw down to accept either a half-inch dia. brass anvil, OR a hard leather pad,

AND the gap at bottom of stroke is "just about right" to accept the punch tubes from my little Maxi Punch set (ooollldie, Tandy part #1770, back when they were made in JAPAN out of pretty decent steel).

Now the fun part - thread on the punch tubes seemingly specs out as 10mm x 1.0 mm - NOT standard metric. It does seem to be kinda standard for bicycles (axle and chainstack nuts) and some brakeline nuts on ebay GB. I have an old junker bike, tried that axle nut from it last night - nope, only runs about two threads in and sticks - NOT a 1.0mm pitch. Can't find doggone micrometer to measure diameter for certain. Looked again at thread pitch under strong light/strong glass with the thread gauge, and yes, that part IS 1.0mm. Need to find micrometer....

What I'd love to know (before ordering in this size nut to attach to the ram of the press) is if I am actually REALLY looking at a 10mm x 1.0 mm thread on the punch tubes.

Are there any machinist types out there who have one of these little MAxi Punch sets to check it out? If I can just stick one of those big axle nuts onto the tip of the press ram, I am home to glory. Well, sort of

Kate

[Kate]

Bruce and Kate,

Short on time here, but wanted to let you know to take your riveter apart first to see how it connects up top by the handle. There were 2 different kinds made. One anvil is threaded and the other one isn't. I will take some pictures of the different styles of riveters later tonight.

Kate, something can be done with your wall mounted riveter so you can use it. I will explain later. Gotta go.

Hey Ryan, How DO you take out the anvil of my oldie Rex Riveter? It appears to be the type that the anvil screws into that press block part the handle actually pushes on. At least, when I gently tried to unwind it using pump pliers, it *did* wind down a bit - must be a pretty fine thread, it took a few turns to see daylight.

I am not seeing an obvious way to get this taken apart - the pivot rod the handle works on is not a bolt or pinned rod, it looks to be peened over on both ends. I could just grind it off, I suppose, but then would have to do the punch-setting thing to keep it in there after reassembly... assuming the NEW Rex riveter splash anvil will fit this OLD one.

Weaver's Heritage riveter appears to be a copy of the old style Rex tool, the new Rex is way different.

Oh, and the wall mounted critter is in middle of fab work. Making it a set of bushings and a drive cap to use it as a press punch with the old Tandy Maxi Punch set. Decided to not destroy the original ram by grinding out a punch clearing slot.

[GunNut]

This is one heck of a thread. I just won one of these old setters on ebay for $15. I can't wait for it to come in so I can see which anvils it has. This place is a fount of knowledge! Thanks!