1911 Retention Strap?

[Bronson]

Would anybody be willing to post pics of how you orient retention straps for 1911s so they don't interfere with the safety in cocked & locked?

If I move the attaching snap on the body shield a little forward so it clears the safety I can't seem to get the strap to lay nice and flat along the back of the slide. Is this correctable or is it just something I'm going to have live with?

Thanks,

Bronson

[TwinOaks]

I've found two ways to do it- have a thin enough strap that it will fit between the hammer and slide, or, make the strap wide enough to go over the hammer.

[LawDawg]

When constructing a 1911 holster that is not meant for duty, it's best to not even add a thumb break device. the best way is to work your pattern to utilize a single or double tension screw. This is easily done by redesigning the holster and widening the pattern below the trigger guard by 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch. Use T nuts on the reverse side in an 8-32 thread and hex head screws with saddle washers on the front. This design utilizes 1/4 inch ID rubber auto vaccum hose inside creating a friction device that proves to be better than a thumb snap for retention of the weapon. If one insists on a thumb strap, I may still have a pattern that fits any 1911, just adjust for length of bbl. I have made dozens of these for off duty Officers and they wish they could use them in their departments. Without knowing the application and the level of security that it needs to be, I can't really direct you further, however I will be more than happy to help where I can.

[Bronson]

I mostly open carry and when I do I prefer to use a holster with some form of active retention device. I want the strap to go between the c&l hammer and the firing pin. The first one I made ended up having the snap interfere with the safety and I removed the strap and relegated that holster to CC duty. I've looked at some holsters in the local gun store and they seem to just move the snap a little farther forward but when I do that it twists the strap so it doesn't lay nice and flat against the back of the slide.

I'm just looking for options and ideas of different ways to approach this. Pics would be great.

Thanks guys,

Bronson

p.s. Here's a link to a photo of that first 1911 holster. The strap has already been removed in this pic but you can still see the holes where the snap and the reinforcing tab rivet were located. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/4289025514/in/set-72157606586066759/

Edited April 29, 2010 by Bronson

[TwinOaks]

On your holster, you just need to to shift the back of the holster more ..."forward" (in the photo, move the sweat shield to the right). Same with the strap. Just offset it from the centerline of the holster so that it can lay flat when covering the weapon.

[Bronson]

On your holster, you just need to to shift the back of the holster more ..."forward" (in the photo, move the sweat shield to the right). Same with the strap. Just offset it from the centerline of the holster so that it can lay flat when covering the weapon.

I appreciate the help guys but I can't seem to articulate in words what I'm trying to convey. Twin Oaks, when I try that I get the twisted strap thing I talked about that prevents the strap from laying flat. I think it's something I'm going to have to live with.

Bronson

[jaygus]

also you can put a hole in the strap for the hammer

[Dwight]

I very seldom get a request any more for a suicide strap or a thumb break.

When I do a thumb break, . . . I use the front holster "stiffener" or decoration piece as the thumb break also. It allows me to put the strap exactly where it needs to be so that it is between the hammer and firing pin.

One thing I learned early on with those, . . . do not put the snap on the strap until the holster is completely finished, . . . and tested for fit and tightness. Get all that correct, . . . then put on the strap snap. You can then give it just enough slack that it does not get pulled down tight, . . . but also will not allow the weapon to inadvertently fall out of the holster.

Like I said, . . . I don't make many of them, . . . and could not find a really good picture for you, . . . I'll keep it in mind for the next one, . . . put pics up.

The other thing to do to preclude safety problems, . . . in the molding process, . . . mold in an indent for the safety, . . . laying in there, . . . it defies movement.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited March 20, 2015 by Dwight

[glockanator]

This is one I just finished up this last week. This is the first 1911 holster with a thumb Break I have done

[snubbyfan]

[Shooter McGavin]

Here ya go. Pics are from a holster I was building at the time so its not in a finished condition, but you can get the idea..

I do them a little differently now as far as the hardware is concerned, but the construction of the thumb break is basically the same.

[leatherquestions]

The retention strap should always follow the plane of the barrel, not the center of the gun. If you make the strap in a straight line following the line of the barrel it works. At the same time you have to move the retention tab forward so it is also in line with the barrel. Works every time.

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Lordy, Shooter, that is a right Purdy set up. <Sigh!> I'm going to end up with another 1911, I just know it...

[frmntx]

Shooter that is beautiful...I bet my wife wishes I saw one of your holsters about 3 or 4 years ago. If I had, I wouldn't have started making my own (and everyone else I know) and moved her car into the driveway and out of my "shop"! lol

Bronson...

For what it's worth - If you aren't able to get it the way you want it, on one of the ones I did, I actually sewed a small piece of leather on the underside of the strap in the shape of the thumb safety right below where the safety is located. On the outside you can see a small triangle of thread, but on the strap side there is a piece of leather below the safety that prevents it from being disengaged (even if you try to).