billymac814 Report post Posted May 20, 2010 Here's the latest seat. It was meant to be for my bike but I glued the back on slightly off center. I want mine to be perfect since it will be kinda like my display model in a sense. If it was mounted I don't think it'll be noticable but I'll probably be flipping mine up quite a bit to show it off. Anyway 8oz Wicket&Craig All Kangaroo lace A combo of Tan, saddle tan, and med brown dye I used antique this time and I really like it. I looked at my other seat and it looks plain without it. I finished this with sno seal and feel a little more confident on the water resistance and it looks just as good, it buffed to a nice shine. I put the other one on my bike with the leatherbalm and got a few small waterspots on the bottom side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted May 20, 2010 Looks great man. Nice colors. I dont think the back off centering is even noticeable. Just remember with the sno seal, picards and others like that you gotta throw some more on every once in a while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted May 20, 2010 Looks great man. Nice colors. I dont think the back off centering is even noticeable. Just remember with the sno seal, picards and others like that you gotta throw some more on every once in a while. The center really isn't that noticable, if it weren't for the extra lace it wouldn't be noticed at all. I just don't want any messups on mine, in hopes of using it to sell more. It would do it good to clean it and put the stuff on every so often anyway so I don't mind doing it over. I'll make sure to give directions to anyone that buys it. I feel it protects better than the leather balm, mainly because it's much thicker. I should save my opinions till I have used both in the real world though. They both look about the same when put on. I may order some of the pecards, I hear good things about that. I'm probably going to clean the first star seat with saddle soap and antique it then apply the sno seal or something similar. Hopefully the two small water spots go away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leatheroo Report post Posted May 20, 2010 sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted May 20, 2010 Yeah I like the sno seal or similer just for that reason, you can recondition the leather. I use it on my seat and have had it going strong for a while now and its gotten soaked many times. Its black though so doesnt show the water stains. It still looks really good though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted May 21, 2010 Yeah I like the sno seal or similer just for that reason, you can recondition the leather. I use it on my seat and have had it going strong for a while now and its gotten soaked many times. Its black though so doesnt show the water stains. It still looks really good though. I got the sno seal because it's about the only one I found locally. I'll try the pecards and see what it's like. It's probably more expensive but seems popular enough. Good to know it's holding up strong on yours. How often do you re-apply? I may need to pick your brain in the future here. I won on eBay a stock seat for my girlfriends shadow that I'm going to recover and probably either refoam(depending on the condition) it and add a gel insert. I figure it will be good practice on that style of seat and I can keep it a suprise since her seat won't be missing. What weight leather did you use on yours for the top and sides? All I have is 8oz so I'm sure it'll be to thick. I hate to buy two more sides though so I'm gonna have to see what I can do. This is an expensive hobby. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted May 21, 2010 I reapply about every 3 months of hard riding (thin coat) or about every 6 months or so if its just normal dry weather which we dont get alot of up here in northwest WA. On my seat I used about 8oz on top and about 5oz on the sides. I think anything from around 4 to 6oz works pretty good for the sides since on the cruiser type seats you gotta wet form them around the padding. Ive only done my seat though and will say you will be up for a little bit of a challenge. They are alot different then the chopper style seats in alot of ways. If you can try and get her to try out the seat before you finish covering it to make sure you get the padding right. I know it took me a few times to get mine right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted May 23, 2010 I reapply about every 3 months of hard riding (thin coat) or about every 6 months or so if its just normal dry weather which we dont get alot of up here in northwest WA. On my seat I used about 8oz on top and about 5oz on the sides. I think anything from around 4 to 6oz works pretty good for the sides since on the cruiser type seats you gotta wet form them around the padding. Ive only done my seat though and will say you will be up for a little bit of a challenge. They are alot different then the chopper style seats in alot of ways. If you can try and get her to try out the seat before you finish covering it to make sure you get the padding right. I know it took me a few times to get mine right. it certainly looks more challenging to do that style of seat. I figure more people have those though so I should learn how. I ordered another seat in the event I mess it up or it takes me a while, I also wanted to suprise her with it but I might not be able to if I have to redo the padding. I Kinda need to sell some of the other ones to buy more leather. I'm working on a new work table this weekend so nothing else is getting done, but my work area will be much bigger and sturdy and I'm putting another light up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted May 26, 2010 I got the sno seal because it's about the only one I found locally. I'll try the pecards and see what it's like. It's probably more expensive but seems popular enough. Good to know it's holding up strong on yours. How often do you re-apply? I may need to pick your brain in the future here. I won on eBay a stock seat for my girlfriends shadow that I'm going to recover and probably either refoam(depending on the condition) it and add a gel insert. I figure it will be good practice on that style of seat and I can keep it a suprise since her seat won't be missing. What weight leather did you use on yours for the top and sides? All I have is 8oz so I'm sure it'll be to thick. I hate to buy two more sides though so I'm gonna have to see what I can do. This is an expensive hobby. Nice looking seat Billy. What kind of Shadow does your girlfriend have? I have a 750 Aero and my soon-to-be-wife has a 750 Spirit. I don't know if you're interested in having some fun with it (and possibly picking up a sideline for custom Shadow seats) but I think I still have pics of the custom pan process I used for mine (the foam/leather is in process now). Either way, the nice thing about Shadow seats is the pan is ABS and the foam is dense so modifying the OEM seats to look custom is a cake walk. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted May 31, 2010 Nice looking seat Billy. What kind of Shadow does your girlfriend have? I have a 750 Aero and my soon-to-be-wife has a 750 Spirit. I don't know if you're interested in having some fun with it (and possibly picking up a sideline for custom Shadow seats) but I think I still have pics of the custom pan process I used for mine (the foam/leather is in process now). Either way, the nice thing about Shadow seats is the pan is ABS and the foam is dense so modifying the OEM seats to look custom is a cake walk. She has the Aero, I ordered a seat but it hasn't came yet. It's probably going to be a month or so before I start it but Id like to see pics if you have them. I've noticed on her seat the vinyl cover is stretched over the foam so tight that it doesn't even lay on the foam it's like stretched across it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted May 31, 2010 (edited) She has the Aero, I ordered a seat but it hasn't came yet. It's probably going to be a month or so before I start it but Id like to see pics if you have them. I've noticed on her seat the vinyl cover is stretched over the foam so tight that it doesn't even lay on the foam it's like stretched across it. Yeah, there is about a inch of 'airspace' between the vinyl and foam on an Aero factory seat in the butt section. Mine is 6 years old and still has that space. A few years back I made a custom pan out of fiberglass that has held up pretty nicely and slimmed down the profile and width quite a bit. I'm in the process of re-foaming it and making a new cover. Here are the pics from making the pan. Part of the reason I am redoing it is it only has 3/4" of memory foam right now and I'd like a bit more cushion. That and my tooling skill is considerable better now so it could look much nicer. Edited May 31, 2010 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted June 1, 2010 That looks good, what weight leather did you use for the top and sides? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted June 1, 2010 That looks good, what weight leather did you use for the top and sides? Thanks Billy, that was actually my first leatherworking project ever; so looking back (as I cut the old cover off it) I could see many places to improve. The leather was 5/6 top and sides and as you can see on the sides, I had to lace in in 2 sections since I hadn't learned about wet-forming yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted June 1, 2010 So you did that without wet forming? If so I'm sure your next one will look much better then. I need to buy some thinner leather but Im waiting till I sell another seat or two first. The company I work for is letting me share their booth at thunder in the valley at the the end of June. I have no idea of how many I can sell or if I can sell any so I'm just going to keep making them till then, I have 3 going right now which seems to go a little faster when doing multiples at a time. I'm going to keep hers real close to stock for shape and size I think, unless once I rip the cover off I change my mind. The one I bought only came with the front seat so that's all I'm goingto do. We've been talking about taking the back one off anyway. I may redo her saddlebags at the same time. They are really old cheap ones we got at a swap meet so I may make new lids for them and cut the yoke out and make them a mount. They don't look good now but that's the only way we can take anything since I can't put anything on mine. I call her bike my mule. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted June 1, 2010 Yeah, forming a seat (or trying to) with dry leather isn't fun, that's for sure. My new one is going to have another 1 1/2" of foam added to it as well so I'm glad I found out about wet forming. I'm also going to use better lacing as the stuff on the first seat was 3/16" square rawhide and it makes a pretty nasty seam to sit on (cuts into the back of my legs). I don't know how you keep 3 seats going at the same time, I have trouble finding time to get one started let alone more than that at once. My biggest issue now is trying to figure out a theme/carving for the new seat. I'm thinking the new one is going to be done with a "Maximum Carnage" Spiderman video game cover type of thing with Carnage rising over the city. I had that airbrushed on my truck tailgate many years ago and loved the look the artist did. (picture reference below) As for the 'mule', dump the rear pillon and the bike will looks loads better. There is a retro looking rack that direct bolts on that looks slick and gives you that much more strapping space for gear. http://www.meancycle...ser&CompanyID=0 First thing you'll likely notice when you rip off the cover is the sides are huge for what's needed. For some reason the foam extends past the sides of the seat a good 1.5-2". It could easily be sheared down to give the bike a slimmer look without affecting the seating position/comfort. Speaking of the foam, it's not attached really well to the pan either. You can actually pop it off the pan without breaking it to see if you want to attack reshaping it with all new foam. If it doesn't work out, simply pop the old foam form back on. Side note, if you need any info on mods/additions to the Aero, feel free to drop me a line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted June 2, 2010 That's a pretty cool picture. That is actually what takes me the longest is deciding on a design to put on it but I pretty much had to quit thinking about it so much and since these will be for sale I'm just trying to do something that will appeal to the masses. Keeping 3 going at once really hasn't been that bad other than I have very little time to work on them. . It's much easier to cut out 6 pieces and prep 3 pans and all that stuff at once. It will be easier to dye and finish them to but the lacing might be tough doing 3 back to back since my hands get pretty sore after 1. Do you have any way of making the shadow any quicker? It's goes fast enough on the highway but it doesn't start off to quick. My Vulcan will run circles around it but really it's fine for her. Hers is all stock except the pipes. I got the seat in today and ripped the cover off, I probably won't do much more than that for a while, it is a big seat, I'm going to put it on the bike and see if I can shape it any better, I may get new foam and use that first, did you put plastic back over the foam? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) That's a pretty cool picture. That is actually what takes me the longest is deciding on a design to put on it but I pretty much had to quit thinking about it so much and since these will be for sale I'm just trying to do something that will appeal to the masses. Keeping 3 going at once really hasn't been that bad other than I have very little time to work on them. . It's much easier to cut out 6 pieces and prep 3 pans and all that stuff at once. It will be easier to dye and finish them to but the lacing might be tough doing 3 back to back since my hands get pretty sore after 1. Do you have any way of making the shadow any quicker? It's goes fast enough on the highway but it doesn't start off to quick. My Vulcan will run circles around it but really it's fine for her. Hers is all stock except the pipes. I got the seat in today and ripped the cover off, I probably won't do much more than that for a while, it is a big seat, I'm going to put it on the bike and see if I can shape it any better, I may get new foam and use that first, did you put plastic back over the foam? Making a Shadow quicker: yes and no. There are a number of things you can do that will improve performance but nothing to get huge gains without seriously modifying the heads and such and by the time you do that, you could pretty much buy a bigger bike. The Aero was really designed with retro touring in mind. Had I known then what I know now I probably would have gotten a different bike (I ride pretty agressively). A couple of things that are straightforward to do and reasonable cost are: re-jetting, different air cleaner/box, pipes, clutch springs and the infamous 4 degree timing mod. The pipes are taken care of as you mentioned. Something to check on the pipes though for Aeros (actually all current Hondas) is you can get full pipes or just the mufflers. If the pipes look like they are 2 separate pieces they likely only changes the mufflers - changing to full pipes will open it up some more. Rejetting and the airbox/air cleaner options are pretty straightforward in reasoning. Generally done at the same time as only doing one will throw off the power triangle, especially if the pipes are already done. The clutch springs won't make it faster but they will make it respond better off the line and through shifting. The OEM springs are pretty soft and don't allow for as good as possible response from lever to tranny. Barnett makes a nice spring kit for Aeros. 4 degree timing mod. There is a theory that by advancing the timing module forward by 4 degrees that it raises the power band by 2-5 hp depending on the reports due to the factory retarding the timing by about that much - air purity controls, etc. I did it on my bike and while I like to think it made a difference, I never put it on a dyno to find out. Long story short, the best you'll get out of it with mods and no heavy rebuilds is going to be 4-7 hp more than factory. Between it being a 750cc, single carb and other things like using a hypoid geared drive shaft (makes a 90* turn from tranny to final drive) instead of a chain or belt the Aero is really one of those bikes you get for it's style and ride vs. speed. Sadly, my fiance has a 750 Spirit which is the same engine only dual carb, chain drive and just those two things alone give it more umph than my bike but mine looks way cooler. Edited June 2, 2010 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted June 3, 2010 I probably won't do much to her bike, she doesn't really need to go faster and she really doesn't go fast anyway and I really don't have time for another project, I got enough going on. My quams with the bike are the shaft drive and a ton of plastic, other than that it looks cool. I do like that rack for the back but she isn't into it but I think I can talk her into it especially if her fender is scratched up at all from the stock seat. I can probably make one but by the time Id have it chromed it probably wouldn't be much cheaper and probably not worth the effort. Her pipes are the cobra drag pipes, they are a full one piece deal, doesn't do anything for it other than look and sound a bit better, they came with the bike so it's hard to tell if it was jetted at the same time or not, although my school of thought was always if you change the intake you have to change the exhaust but if you change the exhaust it doesn't affect the intake so no need to jet it within reason of course. Probably not the case for short straight open pipes like mine but ones with baffles at least there's still some backpressure there. Is your bike lowered? It looks like the shocks are at a steeper angle then hers are. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted June 3, 2010 (edited) I probably won't do much to her bike, she doesn't really need to go faster and she really doesn't go fast anyway and I really don't have time for another project, I got enough going on. My quams with the bike are the shaft drive and a ton of plastic, other than that it looks cool. I do like that rack for the back but she isn't into it but I think I can talk her into it especially if her fender is scratched up at all from the stock seat. I can probably make one but by the time Id have it chromed it probably wouldn't be much cheaper and probably not worth the effort. Her pipes are the cobra drag pipes, they are a full one piece deal, doesn't do anything for it other than look and sound a bit better, they came with the bike so it's hard to tell if it was jetted at the same time or not, although my school of thought was always if you change the intake you have to change the exhaust but if you change the exhaust it doesn't affect the intake so no need to jet it within reason of course. Probably not the case for short straight open pipes like mine but ones with baffles at least there's still some backpressure there. Is your bike lowered? It looks like the shocks are at a steeper angle then hers are. Ah, ok. Yeah if her scoot is baffled then it probably wasn't rejetted and likely won't need it. Just keep an eye on the plugs cause sometimes the Aeros can run rich if someone just slapped pipes on and didn't tweak the carb at least. (btw - the carb adjust screw is on the bottom of the carb behind the carb drain nipple. Takes one of those D-shaped tools.) If you're interested in one of those racks, let me know before you buy it. I may still have one in the shop...put it on for a while and then took it off as the bike progressed in a different direction. If I still have it, I'm sure we can work something out in trade or something. Yep, my bike is lowered 1 1/2" in the rear. Scootworks & Baron make the brackets and it's a cakewalk install. http://www.meancycle...ser&CompanyID=0 Note: if you shop at Meancycles, use the Aero 750 forum discount code: AERORIDER to get a 5% discount. I lowered mine to tuck some of the extra tire into the fender since I can't go with a fixed fender. If she is tip-toeing it though, it's definitely the way to go. There are a couple of companies scamming folks with a 'front end lowering kit'...don't buy it. If you want to lower the front (rear only is fine for most folks) let me know, the kits are simply sch80 PVC pipe cut to size to replace the OEM spring spacer tubes. I can send ya pics from when I messed around with all that. I'm also running slightly larger than OEM Metzler 880s to get a bit more rubber under me and to help fill out the fenders. I can look up the size if you want to check it out. Edited June 3, 2010 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites