Need Workflow Advise

[particle]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

[Luke Hatley]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

I would get it ready for sewing...... Antique it then sew.now the thread will be clean.

[particle]

The problem I foresee is this... after I attach the reinforcement/tunnel piece of leather, I wet the holster to allow it to fold easily - then let it dry. Then I glue and stitch it closed. Then I wet it again and form it. The guy at Tandy said wetting the holster would wash off the antique... I would be wetting it twice. And I need to seal the leather before I apply the antique, which will affect the ability to fold/form the holster.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

What about waxing the thread so it is more stain resistant, then brushing the antique finish on after shaping/boning the holster?

[particle]

Stitching with the Boss - and was told you can't wax the thread because it'll gum up the system.

[pete]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

Do it like Luke said, but wet the flesh side as much as you want- it won't affect the tooling or the antique.

pete

[Denster]

Eric

Just a suggestion. You might try finishing your collar and sewing it on. Then to make your bend just wet the flesh side as it is the compression side and gives the most resistance to the bend. Glue and sew it then to mold use a sray bottle of water for the interior and a sponge for the exterior just going to the edge of the collar which you are not going to mold anyway. May take a little longer to get the right amount of moisture into the leather for molding but not that much. Just a thought.

[Bronson]

You could always tell the customer "no", or charge him such a ridiculously high up-charge for the extra work that he decides not to have it done

Bronson

[troop]

first Particle let me say that i love your work. you have a great eye for making a holster look really nice. when i first started making holsters a year ago i did an antique prior to casing. and it did wash most of it off. once it was dry i antiqued it again and it came out kinda cheesy looking. i was however able to use a very small rag and only get the stain where i wanted it without getting it on the threads. i really wasn't very happy with how it came out, but i try to keep in mind i was using cheap single shoulder Tandy leather, and i think it was about the second or third holster i did. i know you are using H.O. and are doing really good work. your outcome may be different, and it could come out looking really nice. you might try applying the stain with a very small paint brush after it is all dried and molded letting the small amounts darken the areas you apply it to as it dries. however you do it, if you're not satisfied i would tell the customer that it just isn't going to work out like he wants it. i would hate to see you make a lesser product in trying to satisfy a customer. i too have had to tell people that sometimes things just can't be done well enough for my standards when they request something out of the ordinary. but i will always try it. good luck, and keep up the good work.

Tony

[JoshDuvall]

You seem to be in a bit of a pickle my friend...

Wish I could help but the only thing i could think of would be to make your holster as usual and after your first coat of acrylic or satin sheen or whatever you use before you antique would be to tape off the stitching with some blue painters tape or something and then go ahead and antique the tooled area then remove the tape. I don't know if it would work or not but its the only thing I could think off. Let us know how everything turns out and post pictures when you're done. Love your work by the way.