Patterning A Handgun

[emsnut]

Okay I have looked through just about every topic and can not find what I am looking for. I have the Al Stoman book on holster making but I have left it some where that I can not find right now. I am trying to make a holster for a Double Stack Kimber 45 Composite frame. I took the gun and placed it on its sights then I rolled it over on to its side and traced around the pistol. I used a file folder and then cut out the patteren so I would have the two sides. When I designed my pattern I did 1/4" stich lines around the trigger gurad and frame. I am doing a simple wrap around design. But After kind of testing the waters so to speak I feel like this is going to be to small for the gun to fit. I there something I am missing? Should I have added some to the middle of the pattern for thickness of gun? I thought when I rolled the gun on to it's sides that gave me the thickness. I can't remember what steps I need to take or add any to the patteren size. This is the 2nd holster I have tried to make. Not so good with the first one.

[kevinhopkins]

Hi... What you're experiencing is quite common. Most folks that aren't tremendously experienced when it comes to making holsters always make them too small. But that's ok. Usually if you leave 3/4" as a space around the outline, that will do it. It will still come out too small, but just wrap your gun in plastic, dip the holster, and shove the gun in. Do some forming. It will work. the real secret is to just do a few, and make adjustments in your methods as you go along. you'll do great!

Kevin

[emsnut]

Hi... What you're experiencing is quite common. Most folks that aren't tremendously experienced when it comes to making holsters always make them too small. But that's ok. Usually if you leave 3/4" as a space around the outline, that will do it. It will still come out too small, but just wrap your gun in plastic, dip the holster, and shove the gun in. Do some forming. It will work. the real secret is to just do a few, and make adjustments in your methods as you go along. you'll do great!

Kevin

Thank you so much Kevin,

Noticed that you was out of springfield. Are you the same Kevin that works at Springfield Leather? And thanks again for everything I will try the 3/4" thing. I may just add 3/4" to the center of my pattern then leave my stich lines where they are now. That should give me the 3/4" you suggested.

[emsnut]

Thank you so much Kevin,

Noticed that you was out of springfield. Are you the same Kevin that works at Springfield Leather? And thanks again for everything I will try the 3/4" thing. I may just add 3/4" to the center of my pattern then leave my stich lines where they are now. That should give me the 3/4" you suggested.

Now I feel stupid. Just read that you are the one from Springfield Leather. DUH! Thanks again kevin. I was the one that called you the other day about needing to bevel my belt keepers on holster and ordered some stuff from you guys. Next time im in town I will stop by and say hi. I am from Springfield and come up offen. Thanks again.

[particle]

Thank you so much Kevin,

Noticed that you was out of springfield. Are you the same Kevin that works at Springfield Leather? And thanks again for everything I will try the 3/4" thing. I may just add 3/4" to the center of my pattern then leave my stich lines where they are now. That should give me the 3/4" you suggested.

You are on the right track, but you can't just add 3/4" on the slide side of the pattern. If you do, you won't be able to slide your gun down into the holster far enough.

Draw a line down the center of the paper, lay the gun on the sights, roll it on its side, then trace the outline of the pistol as close as you can. No, offset the outline of the trigger guard and dust cover 3/4" as Kevin suggested - don't just offset to the right (which is essentially what you would do if you offset 3/4" from the centerline....). You need to offset perpendicularly away from the firearm. If you are doing a 1911-type firearm, this will work just fine. If you are doing a Glock or similar polymer framed gun with a really blocky/thick trigger guard, you may need to add a little more than 3/4".

[emsnut]

You are on the right track, but you can't just add 3/4" on the slide side of the pattern. If you do, you won't be able to slide your gun down into the holster far enough.

Draw a line down the center of the paper, lay the gun on the sights, roll it on its side, then trace the outline of the pistol as close as you can. No, offset the outline of the trigger guard and dust cover 3/4" as Kevin suggested - don't just offset to the right (which is essentially what you would do if you offset 3/4" from the centerline....). You need to offset perpendicularly away from the firearm. If you are doing a 1911-type firearm, this will work just fine. If you are doing a Glock or similar polymer framed gun with a really blocky/thick trigger guard, you may need to add a little more than 3/4".

Okay, Let me see if I have this now. I am using file folders as my pattern matieral. If I lay the pistol on it's sights on the center line of the folder then roll it to one side and trace the gun. Then I offset the trigger guard and dust cover 3/4" for my stitch line. Then from there I offset the top of the slide 3/4"? I trace both sides of the gun on my file folder. I roll it to the right and trace then I roll to the left and trace the out line. I know I am doubling up on the work when all I have to do is trace one side and then cut out the pattern like doing snow flakes on paper as a kid. When I open my pattern I have a mirror image on both sides, and have about 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch in the middle of the pattern. I will try and upload some pictures of a pattern I have done and see if this is what we are talking about.

Thanks again for everyones help.

[particle]

Okay, Let me see if I have this now. I am using file folders as my pattern matieral. If I lay the pistol on it's sights on the center line of the folder then roll it to one side and trace the gun. Then I offset the trigger guard and dust cover 3/4" for my stitch line. Then from there I offset the top of the slide 3/4"? I trace both sides of the gun on my file folder. I roll it to the right and trace then I roll to the left and trace the out line. I know I am doubling up on the work when all I have to do is trace one side and then cut out the pattern like doing snow flakes on paper as a kid. When I open my pattern I have a mirror image on both sides, and have about 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch in the middle of the pattern. I will try and upload some pictures of a pattern I have done and see if this is what we are talking about.

Thanks again for everyones help.

You're on the right track, but you don't need to offset on the slide-side, unless you're doing a pancake. Otherwise, if it's a wrap-around / envelope / Avenger style, you don't need the additional offset on the top of the slide.

Once you've traced your pattern on 1/2 of the file folder, cut out that side of the pattern. Close the file folder, and cut along the edge of the pattern to cut away the other half of the pattern.

If you are including a sweat shield, draw that onto the appropriate side of the pattern before you do any cutting.

[emsnut]

You're on the right track, but you don't need to offset on the slide-side, unless you're doing a pancake. Otherwise, if it's a wrap-around / envelope / Avenger style, you don't need the additional offset on the top of the slide.

Once you've traced your pattern on 1/2 of the file folder, cut out that side of the pattern. Close the file folder, and cut along the edge of the pattern to cut away the other half of the pattern.

If you are including a sweat shield, draw that onto the appropriate side of the pattern before you do any cutting.

Thank you so much. Now I get it. You guys have been great. Thanks for everything. I just bought a New Sig Sauer P238 today and I am wanting to make a holster for it. Then if it turns out I want to do one with a cobra skin inlay.