What Other Knives Do People Use?

[Deanimator]

The head knife discussion was interesting. Given the cost however, that's not something I'll be getting soon.

Right now, I'm using an X-acto knife for cutting paper and carboard patterns.

For cutting leather, I'm using a standard razor knife (box cutter).

I notice that I rarely get through on one pass with the razor knife. The blade is new, so I'm sure my technique is lacking.

For those not using a head knife, what are you using and do you have any tips on cutting more accurately and effectively?

Thanks.

[dirtclod]

I'm not sure when you say box cutter if you mean you mean one with a saftey razor blade or not. If you don't want to get a head / round knife right now a sheet rock / utility knife will work. At least you can sharpen a blade if it gets dull and new blades don't cost that much.

[Deanimator]

I'm not sure when you say box cutter if you mean you mean one with a saftey razor blade or not. If you don't want to get a head / round knife right now a sheet rock / utility knife will work. At least you can sharpen a blade if it gets dull and new blades don't cost that much.

I'm using a utility razor knife with a retractable, double ended blade that can be removed and flipped when one side gets dull.

[dirtclod]

You can strop or sharpen those blades when they get dull.

[Deanimator]

You can strop or sharpen those blades when they get dull.

I've got a knife sharpening kit which I use for a couple of military knives.

How often would you sharpen blades like that?

Thanks.

[dirtclod]

Try stroping first if that doesn't help, then sharpen them. you can make a strop out a piece of leather, poster board or file folder. Then rub some red or green buffing compound. You can get compound on ebay if their isn't a store close to where you live.

[Deanimator]

Try stroping first if that doesn't help, then sharpen them. you can make a strop out a piece of leather, poster board or file folder. Then rub some red or green buffing compound. You can get compound on ebay if their isn't a store close to where you live.

I'm not sure if I have light, medium or heavy duty blades. The knives came in a kit with a couple of tape measures.

What weight blade would you recommend?

[dirtclod]

Is the kind of knife you have? This is what i am talking about. As far as i know theirs only two kinds of blades for them. A straight blade what you want and hooked blade. I've heard that some folks use the hook blade but i would just use the straight blade.

Edited June 28, 2010 by dirtclod

[Deanimator]

Is the kind of knife you have? This is what i am talking about. As far as i know theirs only two kinds of blades for them. A straight blade what you want and hooked blade. I've heard that some folks use the hook blade but i would just use the straight blade.

Yep, that's it, a fine Stanley product.

The Home Depot website mentions medium and heavy blades.

[dirtclod]

Learn something new every day because i never knew they medium and heavy blades. Around they only sell one kind and i guess it's the heavy blade. Either way could get both sense they don't cost alot and see which one you like best.

[Deanimator]

Learn something new every day because i never knew they medium and heavy blades. Around they only sell one kind and i guess it's the heavy blade. Either way could get both sense they don't cost alot and see which one you like best.

If I had to bet money, I'd say that I got the "medium" blades in that package deal, since I'd bet their cheaper.

I'll probably see if Home Depot or Lowes has the medium blades.

[KB8UVM]

I got this knife a while back

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Knives-Cutters-Splitters/3595-00.aspx?feature=Product_14

and I love it.

I use the curved blade 95% of the time. I strop it every time I pick it up and it will cut through 8-9 oz leather with a single pass.

If you search for wood carving knives you'll find this style of knife and several different shaped blades that you can order.

That's my 2 cents.

[Deanimator]

I got this knife a while back

http://www.tandyleat...ture=Product_14

Thanks for the recommendation.

[BearMan]

Hi Everybody,

It seems that most everybody has a knife they reach for most of the time. Here is what I use for about 75% of trimming type of work. I only use it second to my old "Head Knife". This is actually one that I've made. It's a replica of an old , I believe, english design called a "Half Head Knife". The rounded back of the blade is sharp, just like a round / head knife, but also the inside edge is sharpened about half way down. It can be used just like a head knife, & then flipped over, to use like a utility knife. It's quite handy! I know a lot of us "old Timers" have seen knives like this before. It's about 5" long. Please let me know what You think. Thanks for looking. Ed the"BearMan"

[katsass]

Hi Everybody,

It seems that most everybody has a knife they reach for most of the time. Here is what I use for about 75% of trimming type of work. I only use it second to my old "Head Knife". This is actually one that I've made. It's a replica of an old , I believe, english design called a "Half Head Knife". The rounded back of the blade is sharp, just like a round / head knife, but also the inside edge is sharpened about half way down. It can be used just like a head knife, & then flipped over, to use like a utility knife. It's quite handy! I know a lot of us "old Timers" have seen knives like this before. It's about 5" long. Please let me know what You think. Thanks for looking. Ed the"BearMan"

BearMan: I like it........a beautiful knife. The knife I consider my 'dedicated' leather knife is this old 'Murphy' Knife. By old I mean that I know it's at least 70 years old, as it's been around since I first saw it at about 4-5 yrs of age. I remember reaching out to pick it up once, then, my grandfather's very firm grip on my wrist before I got hold of it. He told me that it cut three ways.....long, deep, and continuous. It ain't pretty, but it holds a great edge. I've used it for over 30 years just for leather holster work now. Mike

'

[LeatherCaptain]

I started with Exacto knives but found I kept breaking the tips and needed to constantly replace them. It's a good choice if your only cutting out a pattern or two at a time. But, if you're chopping up an entire side, constantly changing blades gets annoying. So, I purchased a head knife based on recommendations here and from the local Tandy shop manager. It works. It works great for long straight runs or minor curves. I know I could use it for a tight radius if I HAD to but it's kind of a slow process. Ultimately I've taken to the Al Stohlman Trim knife at Tandy's. They're relatively cheap and I can keep stropping it or put it to the grinding stone when I need to. I like the claw like blade that allows me to cut a nice tight radius without grinding the edges. Right after stropping or grinding on the stone, I can get through 7/8 in one pass. But, my hand strength generally weakens over time and it'll take a couple of passes.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Knives-Cutters-Splitters/35015-00.aspx

You might even check out some wood workers knives. There are a few makers out there that have similar blade geometry to the Stohlman knife above and a fairly affordable.

[Deanimator]

I just picked up a pack of the Stanley "Fat Max" blades for my razor knife. I'm almost ready to start cutting on my tuckable IWB design. We'll see how much better (if any) these do than the blades which came with the knives.

[yepod]

I have used several knives over the years, started with the "Stanley" utility knife like first discussed.

Tried 'Murphy style' for a while, then switched to a clicker knife w/ curved blade (similiar to Tandy blade like KB8UVM posted but longer and fixed in a wood handle

Used by shoemakers I think. I still use this a lot and it keeps a wicked edge quite easily.

I have that Tandy knife but instead use a plastic handled Warren Cutlery (for wood carving) with that same replaceable curved blade. It's a bit shorter and fits my hand well.

Got a set of three with a few blades on ebay a few years ago. It looks similar to this one. http://www.thewoodcr...S-ONLY-JW2.html

I don't know this source but the handles are quite reasonably priced (even in rosewood) and the blades are cheaper than Tandys too (less than $1.60 each). http://www.thewoodcr...-3-PKG-10B.html

Now I'm learning how to put a good edge on a head knife and finally going traditional!

[Lippy]

Warren Cutlery makes the knives for Tandy and they are cheaper if your buy direct from them. http://www.warrencutlery.com/ Very nice folks.

Someone earlier mentioned the Murphy knives. Check 'em out here. http://www.rmurphyknives.com/store/blades.html Also very nice people and they have a whole selection of leather knives. 'Been making them for a long time.

I like the head knife because you push it away from your body and it's easy to cut a straight line without using a ruler thanks to the blade design. Why fight tradition. The head knife works well for me.

Working with leather demands that you learn how to sharpen a knife.

Cheers.

[albane]

BearMan: I like it........a beautiful knife. The knife I consider my 'dedicated' leather knife is this old 'Murphy' Knife. By old I mean that I know it's at least 70 years old, as it's been around since I first saw it at about 4-5 yrs of age. I remember reaching out to pick it up once, then, my grandfather's very firm grip on my wrist before I got hold of it. He told me that it cut three ways.....long, deep, and continuous. It ain't pretty, but it holds a great edge. I've used it for over 30 years just for leather holster work now. Mike

'

"He told me that it cut three ways.....long, deep, and continuous." I have to remeber that one.

I have a couple go to knifes.

The tool I find most useful is an Olfa cutter and a good mat.

I have a Knife that looks just like the one pictuered above. I bought it when I was working in a boot factory. this type of knife is called a skiving knife. Mine is plain without the handle. machine shop here I come... that handle is just the solution for the sore fingers that bare blade produces.

Like any tool It's the craftsman that makes the tool work. It sure is nice working with good tools.

from top to bottom:

4) assorted exacto handles (funny the one I like best is missing 1/2" dia alum. handle)

1) skiving knife (from the boot factory) note the bare blade....

the pro guys....low wage hard working extremely talented immigrant guys had there own way of protecting there fingers by wrapping the handle with leather tape etc. They can make anything using only that tool. I lost a few bets saying I can do that with this. Humbling to say the least

1)Osborne trim knife

1) head knife

1) med olfa

1) small olfa

I find the med. and small olfa serve me best the large tend to break to often. the med is great for straight lines with the help of a good straight edge. med is limited to about a 6"dia curve.

the small olfa is nice for about 1 1/2" dia. depending on what your cutting.

the draw back with the olfa system is joining 2 cuts at an angle like a 90 or 45 if one is not careful you can tend to over cut and make an X in the corner.

Edited July 1, 2010 by albane

[billymac814]

I wouldn't rule out those hook blades for the utility knives. I've been using them to cut out my seat pieces and can control it quite well compared to a regular blade. Plus I know cut 8-10 in one pass where it used to take 2.

[Stagdag]

I like my Svord Peasant for cutting leather, it's great for that purpose. Very thin, sharp and ergonomic. Easily touched up as well.

Katsass, I too have a Murphy knife a guy on another forum sent me. It's a beauty! I need to sharpen it up and keep it in a tin can or something.

PMZ

[harnessman]

The head knife discussion was interesting. Given the cost however, that's not something I'll be getting soon.

Right now, I'm using an X-acto knife for cutting paper and carboard patterns.

For cutting leather, I'm using a standard razor knife (box cutter).

I notice that I rarely get through on one pass with the razor knife. The blade is new, so I'm sure my technique is lacking.

For those not using a head knife, what are you using and do you have any tips on cutting more accurately and effectively?

Thanks.

Hi

Here is a quick shot of my go to cutters that do 99% of what I need to cut in the shop.

From left to right - 1-1/2" woodworker chisel mostly used for skiving strap ends.

Frost Laminated woodcarver knife with 2-1/2" blade It takes a while to sharpen but stays that way a long time. Blade is a little thick for most uses so mostly it sharpens pencils or cuts and points linnen thread, which I do not use much anymore.

Yellow handled bench knife - Home made out of a piece of home grown Mulberry wood and a used Milwaukee Saw blade. Takes an incredible edge and holds it forever! Much lighter than the lightest aluminum box cutter. I use this knife for almost all leather that I cut.

Same as the last one but with a walnut handle and HD Lenox box cutter blade. Box cutter blades, even the best ones, are dull as hoes right out of the package and need sharpening and honing to get up to speed. I have found the Lenox HD blades to work about the best of this type of blade. I like the home made handles better than store bought box cutters because they hold the blade more securely and are much lighter and less fatiguing to use. Also I can make them to fit my hand.

Next to last is a heavy duty X-Acto knife this is the one with the 1/2" dia handle. Mostly I use the pointy surgical blade shown to cut out inlays and such. Not used much but when you need it it is a got to have!

Last, and mostly decorative, is a Weaver head knife. I got this a while back because you have to have a round knife if you are a leather worker, right? It was relatively inexpensive, does hold a wicked sharp edge, cuts well, but is awkward to use and does not cut as well as my homemade knives and you sure can not cut detail work like the X-acto. However it is what I go to when I have a customer in the shop who needs to know that he is dealing with a "real" harnessmaker.

Jim

Edited July 2, 2010 by harnessman

[impulse]

Apart from my trusty head knife, I find scalpel blades the most versatile cutting tools. At A$25 per 100 they are cheaper than Stanley knives and can be stropped numerous times to keep them ultra sharp. The sizes i use are nos 12, 24 and 25.

Lois from downunder.

[oregonmac]

I've use about everything at one time or another, including Xacto, Osbourne, Olfa, Hyde, Tandy, etc. but recently I ordered a couple off Ebay from a place called "Haleandco."

These were Barnsley brand knives out of Sheffield. I got the 3-inch heel paring knife and the "Paris curve clicker's knife" to start with, and I'm going back for a few more.

The clicker's knife has an inside curve like the Xacto wood carving blade, but it is a bit different edge-wise. It is great for cutting thin chrome strap material or going around a pattern in 4-5 oz vegtan. I've had other knives including Xacto pull on chrome. This Barnsley curved blade cuts clean.

I have used the 3-incher for cutoff and inside square cuts, and it's the best yet by far.

At a glance the heel paring knife looks like a Tandy special or one from Hyde or Osbourne, but it's thinner and you can put a much more extreme edge on it.

These knives are carbon steel, and they aren't hard to sharpen at all. They require fine stone touch-up and stropping frequently but they cut at a touch. - mac