harnessman

Is this machine still available?

Hi I am just a ferry boat ride away! Even a short list of equipment, other than the Adler (great machine by the way), would go a long way to stirring some interest. Even just posting some general pictures would help. Also some Idea of price would be good, are we looking at a $3K or a $30K shop full of tools? I also make harness and other horse gear and just saying you have all the equipment necessary does not even tell me much, and I know what is required because there are many different ways to make harness, ei, all hand tools or highly mechanized! I know how difficult it must be to part with you prize tools, I sold the farm, literally, and kept the leather tools for my retirement "hobby" gone wild! So you might seriously consider mothballing your leather tools for the future in case you get bit by the leather bug again!

I talked with Jarod, the OP, on 10/20/2015. The machine that he has for sale is a Union/Randal high speed stitcher NOT a Campbell. It has been "rebuilt and re-painted" in his shop. It came to him from an Amish shop, sounded like it was in pretty rough condition when he got it. He seems to be willing to work with anyone on getting it shipped. His asking price was considerably less than posted here and still negotiable. Unfortunately I have no use for the machine.

Is this machine still for sale? Sent you a PM

Purdy durn nice gunleather work pard! Next priject,inlay that thar lizard into the stock of yer pistola. Sorry, something about western wear just makes me go all cowboy speak. (Chuckle, chuckle)

Love the contrasting re-enforcing/overlay look. Nice clean lines. Thanks for sharing

I have been doing leather work for pretty near 50 years now, off and on, and have always hand stitched. About 6 years ago I was doing a lot of harness work and believe me stitching a pair of six foot long traces with two, or more, rows of stitches, that's over 50 FEET of stitching, will wear out your little fingers in a big hurry. After much discussion with she who must be obeyed (swmbo) I scraped up enough money to buy a 441 clone. Best thing I have ever done and it turned my hobby into it part time money maker because of the increased productivity. Huge learning curve to getting that first machine running correctly and consistently but lordy it was fast! I ran with that machine for about 3 years until I got tired changing over needles, thread, tension, etc between jobs and I broke down and bought a second machine, a pretty new cowboy 3500. It was a great machine and, despite the shorter throat, it did everything I asked of it smoothly and easily. I had that machine for about a year when one of the big Adler harness stitchers became available locally and I was able to pick it up for about half of retail, about the price of a new Cowboy (whew, SWMBO darn near scalped me for that one). For those who do not know the Adler is like a 4500 Juki clone but on steroids! It is by far The Best heavy duty free arm stitcher on the market.That big Adler was a real eye opener. The smoothness of German engineering and machining was incredible! Stitch regulation was perfect! To make a long story a bit shorter I sold the Cowboy to a young man I was mentoring and kept the Adler as my main go to stitcher. The 441 clones will do the job but the Adler does it just that much better! So, any machine, even (shudder), a manual Boss, will be faster than hand stitching but if you have the need and have the $$$ go with a Adler, you will never be sorry! JMHO, your millage may vary.

Ooops! Double post.

THIS MACHINE IS SOLD! Thank you to all who responded. It was sold locally to a new leather worker who is a fantastic artist.

Yea, this is for one of the big old mauls. Makes the Osborne ones look like toys!

Hi All I am looking for a double shoulder or butt of 10-12oz rawhide. I just picked up a heavy maul and need to replace the head. Original was pretty thick rawhide, ,bout 10oz by the looks of what is left. Don't know if they even make rawhide that thick anymore. Most of what I am finding is thin, 2-4 oz saddle or braiding stuff. I found one mention of water buffalo rawhide for mauls? I am sure this subject has been covered before, but i'll be darned if I can find it. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

FOR SALE COBRA #3 - 9" FREE ARM STITCHER $2000.00 LOCATED IN WISCONSIN I bought this machine last year, about this time, for use in my part time leather work. It is a great machine but I got a real deal on a Adler 205 machine so I have to sell this machine to make room. (wife won't let me keep all my toys!) It is in like new condition. Lightly used and barely broke in, just enough to work all the bugs out of it! Stitches great! Excellent machine for all kinds of holster work, harness stitching, heavy blanket repair, saddle repair or building. Easily stitches webbing, canvas, bio-plastics, upholstery fabric, basically anything that you need a really heavy stitching machine for. The COBRA Class 3 will sew from 6 oz to 7/8" leather including skirting, all typs of tack, bullet loops, chap leather, and everything in between with ease. This machine has a 9" free arm with tripple feed walking foot. They are strong and compact, allowing you to sew in small areas easier than ever before! Arguably one of the best of the China Clones and you can not beat Steve's service! The Cobra Class 3 comes complete with heavy duty pedestal stand on wheels, Digital DC Servo Motor, SR2 Heavy Duty Speed Reducer, extra needles, extra bobbins, thread, roller edge quide, tools, oil, accessory flat table and aftermarket roller guide. I also modified the location of the foot pedal to better suite working on small items like holsters. If you do not like it you can simply move it back to the original possition. I also added a better swing down roller guide($85) because the roller guide that came with the machine (included) was not all that handy. The original roller guide is included. Also included is a high Lumen 28 LED adjustable work light ($49), really a nice bright light, and the optional flat work table ($85), which I never used. I have also included a 1/4 spool of 277 black Nylon thread and two packs of needles (25 & 26) and the full bobbin, shown in the pictues on the winder, to get you started. Look at the pictures to see exactly what you will get. Come & look at this machine, try it out and you will be impressed. Bring a buddy to help load as I recently had back surgery and have lift restrictions! If you have any questions do not hessitate to ask! Email or call 262-689-1204 & leave message. Located in Wisconsin.

HI Art Great! just what I wanted to know. Thank you for the feedback. I agree withe the servo vs clutch. I have a clutch on my Singer 211 and it is OK, but still tends to freewheel sometimes when you least expect it. ON the other hand I have a servo on my big class 4 harness machine and I can easily lay one stitch at a time exactly where I want it! Love that servo, really should get one for the Singer as well. Thanks Jim

Hi All I am looking for a machine to sew fancy stitching into 3-6 oz leather and am looking for some feedback on these two machines, Cowboy cb-8500 or Cobra 5550. They look to be identical and come set up with a roller foot. I was originally looking for a old Singer 31-15 but they seem to be scarce as hens teeth in the upper midwest where I live. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

Dang, why is it that just when you find something that really works, it suddenly is no longer available! I have gone through several "no name" brands of thread only to find them less than desireable, fraying, weak spots, fading etc. I finally happened on Linhanyl and it seems to be perfect, and now I hear that it is no longer available. DANG!!!!

X2 I run 3 foot lenths of 6oz through the big machine at 6spi with 277 thread. Cut keepers to length, melt the cut ends of the thread and at the same time melt a little beeswax/pitch into the holes. Fast simple and never a problem unraveling.

Hi Mike Sorry this was immediately snatched up and is long gone to a new home almost a year ago! Jim

Try the Thead Exchange. Tons of great information on thread and lots of collors and sizes of colors to chose from Prices are as good as any and better than most! Best of all they actually tell you where the thread comes from , unlike tandy/s Weavers, etc where you buy whatever crap they can palm of on their customers. Stick with Eddington, poly, or :Lynhanyl in Nylon. best thread around, but that is just my oppinion and yours may vary. http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

Yea, I know about the PITA with multiple coats of neetlac, used to use that stuff, bagcoat as well, never real happy with the finish that it gave. Always looked like someone had applied a coat of plastic to the leather. I have never worked with Vingaroon, might have to give it a try, as well as the lincoln dye's. Thanks

OK, just so you do not feel so alone out there I am having the same problem. I recently made a pair of 4" wide Santa belts out of bridle leather, one Black and one Havana brown. and Santa is having a problem with them bleading out the edges. He is not happy and I am 'fraid I am getting nothing but coal for Christmas this year! Edges were sanded, dyed with Fiebings Pro oil dye dried overnight hit with Gum T. slicked second coat of gum slicked again, let dry for 24 hourse coat of Atom wax over the top to really shine everything up. I buff out with old white "T" shirts and only a little of the wax residue and color comes off, once polished I can rub like heck and nothing comes off on the white "T"s. Damn things are leaving black lines four inches apart all over his expensive custom made wool suit. He is sending the belts back to be reworked, but I am not sure what the heck to do to get them to stop bleeding. Anybody got any Ideas how to seal these up?

Hi Guys I am in the market for a middleweight machine and kind of like the looks of the Artisan 2618-1B LTHR machine. Anyone out there use one of these? If so, how do you like it? I am looking for a machine that will comfortably hande 1/4-3/8 type work in harness leather. I have a big harness stitcher from NEEL but man it hurts to replace those big 784 needles! I also have a flat bed Singer 211 machine that works great for under 1/4 work, mostly I use it to set zippers into leather. Any commentary on the ARtisan would be appreciated, or for that mater any other machine in this class. Thanks Jim

Hi Luke Can't be much help on the Tan Coat as I only use Bag Coat to give a nice mellow final shine to flat goods. As to the rivets, the single cap and double cap are the same as far as strength, or lack thereof, since they both rely on upsetting the post into the head on one side. Steel rivets are a bit stronger than solid brass, but tend to rust and look really ugly. Any of these upset hollow post type of rivet should not be considered much of a structural, strength, element as they are not very strong. If you are looking for strength then go with a post and burr rivet. JMHO Jim

Hi Bill I use 69, 138 and ocasionally 207 in my Singer 211 and have not had any problems with that. I use 277 and up in my big Juky knock off cylinder arm that i purchased about 5 years ago from Neel Saddlery. It has proven to be a good durable and usefull machine. I also use 348 in my American straight needle for box work and some other stuff and do not get the fraying that I see on the free arm machine unless I crank the thread clamps way up. Yes, I have gone over all the rub points on the machine with a dremmel and buffed out all the rough spots. The currious thing is that I have not seen this in the past, it is only in the last year or so that I have gotten the fraying, probably the last 2-3 spools of 277. Come to think of it I had to clean a lot of fluff off of the Singer last time I used it, and that was with a new spool of 138. I have also noticed lately that the cut ends of the thread tend to unravel real easily. I think they have switched vendors. Jim D.

Hi All I am looking for some oppinions on Bonded Nylon for machine sewing. I am currently using nylon from Weavers and am not particularly happy with it as it seems to fray pretty easily going through the machine and leaves a lot of fuzz on the guides. I am using silicone lub on the upper thread and sew slowly so heat is not the issue. I am trying to avoid buying several spools of $20+ thread to experiment with so I would appreciate some feedback on brands and where you get them from. Thanks Jim D.