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Posted

I wouldn't rule out those hook blades for the utility knives. I've been using them to cut out my seat pieces and can control it quite well compared to a regular blade. Plus I know cut 8-10 in one pass where it used to take 2.

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Posted

I like my Svord Peasant for cutting leather, it's great for that purpose. Very thin, sharp and ergonomic. Easily touched up as well.

Katsass, I too have a Murphy knife a guy on another forum sent me. It's a beauty! I need to sharpen it up and keep it in a tin can or something.

PMZ

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Posted (edited)

The head knife discussion was interesting. Given the cost however, that's not something I'll be getting soon.

Right now, I'm using an X-acto knife for cutting paper and carboard patterns.

For cutting leather, I'm using a standard razor knife (box cutter).

I notice that I rarely get through on one pass with the razor knife. The blade is new, so I'm sure my technique is lacking.

For those not using a head knife, what are you using and do you have any tips on cutting more accurately and effectively?

Thanks.

Hi

Here is a quick shot of my go to cutters that do 99% of what I need to cut in the shop.

From left to right - 1-1/2" woodworker chisel mostly used for skiving strap ends.

Frost Laminated woodcarver knife with 2-1/2" blade It takes a while to sharpen but stays that way a long time. Blade is a little thick for most uses so mostly it sharpens pencils or cuts and points linnen thread, which I do not use much anymore.

Yellow handled bench knife - Home made out of a piece of home grown Mulberry wood and a used Milwaukee Saw blade. Takes an incredible edge and holds it forever! Much lighter than the lightest aluminum box cutter. I use this knife for almost all leather that I cut.

Same as the last one but with a walnut handle and HD Lenox box cutter blade. Box cutter blades, even the best ones, are dull as hoes right out of the package and need sharpening and honing to get up to speed. I have found the Lenox HD blades to work about the best of this type of blade. I like the home made handles better than store bought box cutters because they hold the blade more securely and are much lighter and less fatiguing to use. Also I can make them to fit my hand.

Next to last is a heavy duty X-Acto knife this is the one with the 1/2" dia handle. Mostly I use the pointy surgical blade shown to cut out inlays and such. Not used much but when you need it it is a got to have!

Last, and mostly decorative, is a Weaver head knife. I got this a while back because you have to have a round knife if you are a leather worker, right? It was relatively inexpensive, does hold a wicked sharp edge, cuts well, but is awkward to use and does not cut as well as my homemade knives and you sure can not cut detail work like the X-acto. However it is what I go to when I have a customer in the shop who needs to know that he is dealing with a "real" harnessmaker.

evillaugh.gif

Jim

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Edited by harnessman
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Posted

Apart from my trusty head knife, I find scalpel blades the most versatile cutting tools. At A$25 per 100 they are cheaper than Stanley knives and can be stropped numerous times to keep them ultra sharp. The sizes i use are nos 12, 24 and 25.

Lois from downunder.

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Posted

I've use about everything at one time or another, including Xacto, Osbourne, Olfa, Hyde, Tandy, etc. but recently I ordered a couple off Ebay from a place called "Haleandco."

These were Barnsley brand knives out of Sheffield. I got the 3-inch heel paring knife and the "Paris curve clicker's knife" to start with, and I'm going back for a few more.

The clicker's knife has an inside curve like the Xacto wood carving blade, but it is a bit different edge-wise. It is great for cutting thin chrome strap material or going around a pattern in 4-5 oz vegtan. I've had other knives including Xacto pull on chrome. This Barnsley curved blade cuts clean.

I have used the 3-incher for cutoff and inside square cuts, and it's the best yet by far.

At a glance the heel paring knife looks like a Tandy special or one from Hyde or Osbourne, but it's thinner and you can put a much more extreme edge on it.

These knives are carbon steel, and they aren't hard to sharpen at all. They require fine stone touch-up and stropping frequently but they cut at a touch. - mac

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

The head knife discussion was interesting. Given the cost however, that's not something I'll be getting soon.

Right now, I'm using an X-acto knife for cutting paper and carboard patterns.

For cutting leather, I'm using a standard razor knife (box cutter).

I notice that I rarely get through on one pass with the razor knife. The blade is new, so I'm sure my technique is lacking.

For those not using a head knife, what are you using and do you have any tips on cutting more accurately and effectively?

Thanks.

i used to use a hooked blade for roofing in a utility knife that worked pretty good

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