bggin81 Report post Posted July 24, 2010 So, I decided that I was bitten by the leather bug. I went out and bought el' cheapo tool set to start, and even scored a piece of free granite. I am learning the basics, and tooled my first piece tonight, it's nothing to crow about. But hey, I know that practice is the key! I was wondering how do I keep my project from sliding on the granite when I tool? I know that I need to be able to move it around to work on it. Any guru's that can help, I appreciate it. Many Thanks, Andy "Biggin" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drac Report post Posted July 24, 2010 after putting the clear box tape on the backside, I put some REMOVABLE double sided tape onto it. works very well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Report post Posted July 24, 2010 I know some people who place a small leather bag filled with lead shot on the edge of the project to keep it from moving. I have a 6" long piece of railroad track with leather covering the bottom that I use. Use whatever is handy, and cheap and make sure it's covered in leather to avoid scratches on your project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Drac Report post Posted July 24, 2010 make sure it's covered in leather to avoid scratches on your project. another reason is it's metal, if the metal comes into contact with the leather it can and usually will (depending on the metal) cause discoloration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunnerdoc Report post Posted November 7, 2014 I purchased some 2 lb. weight bags that are a neoprene filled with shot. You can get them online at any diver supply shop. They work great and won't mark or stain your work. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Pros like Chan Geer rubber cement their work piece to a thin piece of plexiglass before tooling it. That ensures the leather won't distort yet it is easy to reposition as necessary. When they're done tooling they line their piece so don't worry about the messy flesh side. Tape will also raise the flesh side fibers, so you'll just have to learn to deal with that unwanted side effect. All the pros I know also use a shot-filled bag to stabilize their work. My saddle maker mentor with 50 years of experience makes shot bags out of scrap chap leather. Stitch the bag inside out with a small leather tab sandwiched on the opposite side of a small opening you will leave. That tab will allow you to turn the leather bag inside out through the opening you left. Fill the bag with shot, invert the seam and hand stitch the opening closed. It will last forever and you will gain experience both stitching and making bags. Good luck, Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnv474 Report post Posted November 10, 2014 I have found double-sided carpet tape to be pretty good and removable without messing up the back, if removed within a few hours. I use the non-foam kind--just a flat tape. I really like Barge rubber cement for this purpose too, as it comes right off with an eraser. I don't use it for tooling, but for mockups of prototypes before sewing. For careful cutting, I rubber cement to a wooden cutting board. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eccho Report post Posted November 11, 2014 Another easy thing is go to an rv supply or Wal....., and buy a small roll of "No Skid". It is usually in with shelf lining paper and the like. It is used to line the shelves in an rv to keep your things from sliding around while bouncing down the freeway.It has a slightly pebbled surface and feels rubbery. $3-4 for about a 1' X 12' roll which will last for years. Works for me, at least for the carving. When you start to pound, take it off because it will give you a little bounce, which you don't want.JM2C..Eccho Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites