Covering Swell Problem! Need An Answer Fast!

[pete]

Here's the problem. I have almost finished a saddle with a pretty healthy set of swells. The customer wants them blind stitched rather than laced. The Stohlman books say (and show) that the swells are simply shaped, taken off turned inside out, stitched, popped back right side out, and replaced.

HOW THE HECK do you get them back on after sewing? I can't stretch them enough to get them over the swells and horn as the swell undercut is too much.

Do I have to cut the cover in front of the horn or behind the horn and place each side on and then lace it back together?

Please help as I need to finish this project.

pete

[jwwright]

Pete........how are you executing the seams on the swells..................blind stitch, one piece welts, or folded welts? the Stohlman books you referenced show the one piece and folded welts, but not the blind stitch as I recall. Knowing what method you are using will help give some direction. JW

[pete]

Pete........how are you executing the seams on the swells..................blind stitch, one piece welts, or folded welts? the Stohlman books you referenced show the one piece and folded welts, but not the blind stitch as I recall. Knowing what method you are using will help give some direction. JW

I'm trying to do a 1 piece welt. I used really heavy leather for the cover not thinking.

I want to be able to slit down the swells and sew them together at the seam(blind stitch??) I may have to punch holes and lace them but I want to know for the next one.Thanks so much for your help.

pete

[jwwright]

Hi Pete..........there is a difference between a blind stitch, and a one piece welt. With a blind stitch, the seam in the swell cover is sewn together on the backside of the swell cover, with the cut in the swell cover, the seam butted together. With a one piece welt, you add a 15 oz. or so thickness of leather down the seam, as shown in your Stohlman books you referenced. If by chance, you fit the swell cover as shown in the Stohlman book for a one piece welt, and then did a blind stitch without the 15 oz. welt piece, your swell cover would be too tight, and that would be your problem. JW

[pete]

Hi Pete..........there is a difference between a blind stitch, and a one piece welt. With a blind stitch, the seam in the swell cover is sewn together on the backside of the swell cover, with the cut in the swell cover, the seam butted together. With a one piece welt, you add a 15 oz. or so thickness of leather down the seam, as shown in your Stohlman books you referenced. If by chance, you fit the swell cover as shown in the Stohlman book for a one piece welt, and then did a blind stitch without the 15 oz. welt piece, your swell cover would be too tight, and that would be your problem. JW

thanks so much for the information

pete

[kseidel]

In answer to your original question, when fitting a swell with a lot of undercut and using a welt or blind seam, you need to leave the bottom loose enough to pull over the swells after stitching, and then work out the slack around the bottom much like you would on a swell with a one piece ( no splits) swell cover. The leather will absorb an enormous amount of slack and not leave any wrinkles, especially thicker leather. It will also shrink a great deal allowing you to fit the swell a little loose, and then when finally installed, the wet leather will shrink down tight as it dries. Good luck! Keith

[pete]

In answer to your original question, when fitting a swell with a lot of undercut and using a welt or blind seam, you need to leave the bottom loose enough to pull over the swells after stitching, and then work out the slack around the bottom much like you would on a swell with a one piece ( no splits) swell cover. The leather will absorb an enormous amount of slack and not leave any wrinkles, especially thicker leather. It will also shrink a great deal allowing you to fit the swell a little loose, and then when finally installed, the wet leather will shrink down tight as it dries. Good luck! Keith

Thank you so much Keith. THAT"S what I needed to know- enough slack in the bottom to take off and put back on. I just didn't think that if it was that big that it would eventually tighten up again.

pete

[CWR]

Pete ,

Look on the third page of this section and there is a topic titled welts and swell covers that I posted awhile back. Keith gave a very detailed answer that helped me alot. He points out some things that aren't in Stohlman's book. I would have put a link to it but I'm to dumb to know how.

Good luck,

CW

[gtwister09]

Pete,

Somehow I missed this one. Here's the link CW was talking about.

Welts & Swell Covers

Regards,

Ben

Edited August 4, 2010 by gtwister09

[dbusarow]

I would have put a link to it but I'm to dumb to know how.

Here you go, http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22026

Dan

[pete]

thanks everyone- I will get it done and hopefully post a few pictures wether I get it right the first time or not. I always learn the best from the boo-boos.

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Hey Pete,

one other trick worth mentioning... You've probably experienced when you are trying to smooth bubbles out of a fork cover and you press one bubble down and it pops up in a different spot. If you still have a few small bubbles don't worry too much about them because when you go to glue that cover down the bubbles will be easier to get rid of. Like Keith mentioned, thick leather will compress and absorb alot, especially when wet. When I glue a swell cover down it is slightly wetter than cased leather. I start by centering the cover over the horn and then pulling the front of the cover down on both sides so that I have an even lip across the front. Next, I pull down the centers of both sides so that the cover is square to the tree... don't worry about tacking down the material in between the lower edges of the front lip and the lower sides of the fork. Next I position the tab that will go through the handhole. At this point the fork is glued down in four points on each side of the tree: the lower front lip, the lower side/center of the fork, the corner of the handhole, and around the horn. Because these points are holding the leather fast it will now be easier to push the bubbles down between the points and not have them pop up elsewhere. Work slowly between the points and work the bubbles downward to the edges of the fork cover.

hope that helps a bit.

Darcy

[pete]

Hey Pete,

one other trick worth mentioning... You've probably experienced when you are trying to smooth bubbles out of a fork cover and you press one bubble down and it pops up in a different spot. If you still have a few small bubbles don't worry too much about them because when you go to glue that cover down the bubbles will be easier to get rid of. Like Keith mentioned, thick leather will compress and absorb alot, especially when wet. When I glue a swell cover down it is slightly wetter than cased leather. I start by centering the cover over the horn and then pulling the front of the cover down on both sides so that I have an even lip across the front. Next, I pull down the centers of both sides so that the cover is square to the tree... don't worry about tacking down the material in between the lower edges of the front lip and the lower sides of the fork. Next I position the tab that will go through the handhole. At this point the fork is glued down in four points on each side of the tree: the lower front lip, the lower side/center of the fork, the corner of the handhole, and around the horn. Because these points are holding the leather fast it will now be easier to push the bubbles down between the points and not have them pop up elsewhere. Work slowly between the points and work the bubbles downward to the edges of the fork cover.

hope that helps a bit.

Darcy

thanks Darcy! That helped too!

pete