Frustrtated By My Bevelers

[Fredo]

Hi everyone, I'm hoping to get some input about the problem I'm having with the fundementals of using a beveler or beveling tool. I've been at this pretty steady for 4 weeks now and I can not understand why I cant get past this problem. I'm attaching a few shots for your crtique and guidence.

I continue to practice but still get the hatch marks everytime I use the beveler. I'm concentrating on keeping the tool plumb and I'm checking for a good over lap between strikes.

At first I thought my leather was too damp, but even when I allow it to dry for a bit I still get the marks.

I'd appreciate your feed back.

Here's a piece I did to show you what I mean.

Fredo

San diego CA

Edited August 17, 2010 by Fredo

[pete]

If your leather is cased well, it looks like you are simply hitting too hard. Do you have the beveler lightly in your fingers? Are you pushing down as you strike? Let it almost bounce as you use it and get a rythym going as you do it.

From the looks of the picture it doesn't appear to be veg tanned leather . Is it? That would be the problem too.

I believe in beveling well rather than having to rely on the modeling tool to go over the entire piece.

practice!

pete

[Clay]

Fredo,

From the picture it looks like you have the face of your beveler tilted a bit. When it is tilted it will go deeper into the leather on the side that is tilted towards. That is what caused the tool marks. Keep the tool straight up and hold it comfortably. The other thing that you could be doing is pushing the tool downward on the leather as you are tooling this causes the tool to catch on the leather as you move it along the cut. Try holding it a hair off of the surface of the leather, this will take some practice but keep it up and you will have it down in not time.

Clay Miller

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

When you are done take the beveler, and use it like a modeling tool by running it over the section you did to iron out the highs, and lows. Don't hit it, just slide it over by hand.

[Fredo]

Thanks for the input guys. ALl in all it looks like I need more practice and possibly slow my work down to make sure I see every strike and to make sure I have my leather cased correctly (not too wet when I start.

Pete: I maybe a bit short on patiance, As my leather dries a bit more the tool marks are less noticiable. I have been noticing that I am holding on pretty thight ot the tool. I'm trying to get my timing down, but when I hold on loosly (that reminds me of a song) I tend to wonder off course. Yes it is Veg Tan, however I did not set my camera's white balance so there is a yellow color cast to my photo from the over desk flourecent lamp. Also shot hand held in macro mode so the pours of the leather show up pretty good. Camera was about 3 inches from the leather when I took this shot.

Clay: I'm pretty sure that most if not all of my problem is technique, or a lack there of. I noticed last night that I tend to focus on the cunction of the tool and the leather. So if I'm not holding the tool plumb I may be missing that by not looking at the shaft of the beveler. Will practice some more.

Biggun: Yeah, I've been using the tool as a modeling tool to smooth out my ridges, however I'm still wondering why I'm having this problem to this extent. Still pleanty to learn.

Edited August 17, 2010 by Fredo

[Spinner]

Hey Fredo, something else to try...try beveling in the opposite direction than you usually do. It not only helps to learn how to tool both directions, but you may also find your tooling is cleaner going 'backwards'. I found out lately by doing this that my beveling is cleaner when I go left to right instead of right to left even though the latter feels more natural.

Other than that, all of the above suggestions should make a difference.

[Daniel Tyack]

Fredo, are you "walking" (constantly tapping) you beveler or tapping each in one at a time? It looks like #1 you may be trying to go too deep in one pass (try taking multiple light passes until you get better) #2 you may have a crap beveler... Their are a zillion different shapes and some lend themselves to easier beveling.

I'm in San Diego too and would be more than happy to meet up and take a look. If not go ask Jan at Tandy or Phil down at Stonehedge. They both are willing to offer good advise.

[Fredo]

Fredo, are you "walking" (constantly tapping) you beveler or tapping each in one at a time? It looks like #1 you may be trying to go too deep in one pass (try taking multiple light passes until you get better) #2 you may have a crap beveler... Their are a zillion different shapes and some lend themselves to easier beveling.

I'm in San Diego too and would be more than happy to meet up and take a look. If not go ask Jan at Tandy or Phil down at Stonehedge. They both are willing to offer good advise.

Thanks Daniel, I'm walking and tapping, looks like that might not be the right option. I'm in class tomorow over at Tandy, I'll hit up Jan for sure.

I have a few diff bevelers. I'm trying to decide which ones are the least crappy of the lot. think I'll take them all in with me since tomorw all I have to do is stitch up a wallet for class.

Let's hook up sometime and I'll pull a couple of robustos out of the humidor.

[Daniel Tyack]

Thanks Daniel, I'm walking and tapping, looks like that might not be the right option. I'm in class tomorow over at Tandy, I'll hit up Jan for sure.

I have a few diff bevelers. I'm trying to decide which ones are the least crappy of the lot. think I'll take them all in with me since tomorw all I have to do is stitch up a wallet for class.

Let's hook up sometime and I'll pull a couple of robustos out of the humidor.

I'm always down to light up a stick! Just let me know I'm out in Jamul by the way.

[Fredo]

Pete nailed it.

It turns out that I need to pay more attention to my casing technique. I was getting too excited and not allowing my leather to dry to a proper cased sate.

That combined with info from everyone else has allowed me to improve greatly. It is not perfect but I can definately see it'sa butt load better then it was just 24 hrs ago.

Also as a added bonus last night in class over at Tanndy. I learned a good technique for making a tri-lobe basket weave really pop.

Thanks again everyone!!

[bex DK]

I know that letting the leather dry more definitely made a difference for me. Also some bevelers I have are worse than others for it--the narrow undercutter is the worst. I keep working to get better but have decided that if I do start managing to sell any leather work, I will invest in a higher quality set of bevelers so the edges are more rounded.

[js5972]

There is a really good thread in the "Stamping" forum that helped me alot. Several different techniques to try.

[LNLeather]

bex DK Posted Yesterday, 11:55 AM

I know that letting the leather dry more definitely made a difference for me. Also some bevelers I have are worse than others for it - the narrow undercutter is the worst. I keep working to get better but have decided that if I do start managing to sell any leather work, I will invest in a higher quality set of bevelers so the edges are more rounded.

bex DK

bex DK - or anyone.....

I wonder, who would you recommend for a Higher Quality Set of Bevelers?

Thanks Fredo - great thread for us (me) beginners - I'm having the same problem...

Edited August 20, 2010 by LNLeather

[Spinner]

bex DK - or anyone.....

I wonder, who would you recommend for a Higher Quality Set of Bevelers?

Thanks Fredo - great thread for us (me) beginners - I'm having the same problem...

Cheryl,

Check out Barry King & Robert Beard bevelers, I have 4 of each of them in various sizes (different types from each maker) and love working with them.

I did just get a Facebook invite for Clay's tools last night though. I haven't used them but they look good and Clay knows his stuff.

Chris