Trying To Educate Myself On Tree Styles(Will James, Assoc.)Etc. How Can I Learn More?

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Huntet,

check out this link and you will see several slick fork trees that look quite similar. The first three trees are all "true Wades" in the sense that the stock thickness (the top of the fork measured from the front of the lip to the back side of the horn) is 5"s (measured in the wood before the tree is rawhided), the horns are wood posts, and the fork sits as close to a horse's back as possible. The first tree measures 8 1/2"s and the second and third trees are 8"s wide which is about as slick a fork as you can make. If you were to examine the three trees in person you'd see the second and third trees are almost flat on the sides of the fork... the first tree is slightly more rounded.

My link

The fourth tree looks like a Wade to the inexperienced eye but it's actually a "modified Ray Hunt" style tree. A Ray Hunt style tree has a stock thickness of 4 1/2"s and other than that one measurement, is identical to a regular Wade. This tree has been modified to provide more clearance through the gullet so the fork is about a 1/4" taller than a regular Ray Hunt tree.

The next two slick forks don't really have names as I had them built to my own specs which don't match up to anything in particular. The first one has a stock thickness of 4 1/4"s which is a shorter stock thickness than a Taylor fork (4 1/2") and thicker than a Weatherly (3 3/4"). The second one is a 4" stock thickness which gives it an appearance similar to a Weatherly fork.

The first swell fork measures 12 1/2"s wide and the second is 12"s wide... only a 1/2" difference but a very different shape to the swell.

You should be able to see that you have alot of options when it comes to the shape of the fork. As Denise mentioned, the groundseat shape is for the most part independant of the fork shape and most saddlemakers would be able to put the same seat in anyone of the trees on that page. I say for the most part because some saddlemakers build their groundseat up onto the backside of the fork while other makers don't. The part of the seat your butt occupies may feel the same between the two styles of groundseat but the shape of the seat towards the front may look different.

Darcy

[Huntet02]

Huntet,

check out this link and you will see several slick fork trees that look quite similar. The first three trees are all "true Wades" in the sense that the stock thickness (the top of the fork measured from the front of the lip to the back side of the horn) is 5"s (measured in the wood before the tree is rawhided), the horns are wood posts, and the fork sits as close to a horse's back as possible. The first tree measures 8 1/2"s and the second and third trees are 8"s wide which is about as slick a fork as you can make. If you were to examine the three trees in person you'd see the second and third trees are almost flat on the sides of the fork... the first tree is slightly more rounded.

My link

The fourth tree looks like a Wade to the inexperienced eye but it's actually a "modified Ray Hunt" style tree. A Ray Hunt style tree has a stock thickness of 4 1/2"s and other than that one measurement, is identical to a regular Wade. This tree has been modified to provide more clearance through the gullet so the fork is about a 1/4" taller than a regular Ray Hunt tree.

The next two slick forks don't really have names as I had them built to my own specs which don't match up to anything in particular. The first one has a stock thickness of 4 1/4"s which is a shorter stock thickness than a Taylor fork (4 1/2") and thicker than a Weatherly (3 3/4"). The second one is a 4" stock thickness which gives it an appearance similar to a Weatherly fork.

The first swell fork measures 12 1/2"s wide and the second is 12"s wide... only a 1/2" difference but a very different shape to the swell.

You should be able to see that you have alot of options when it comes to the shape of the fork. As Denise mentioned, the groundseat shape is for the most part independant of the fork shape and most saddlemakers would be able to put the same seat in anyone of the trees on that page. I say for the most part because some saddlemakers build their groundseat up onto the backside of the fork while other makers don't. The part of the seat your butt occupies may feel the same between the two styles of groundseat but the shape of the seat towards the front may look different.

Darcy

Very helpful.....yes I reviewed all focusing more on the groundseats frist then re-read the thickness' and understand perfeclty~ then of course had to peek at the saddles....straight away my eye went to the "Ray Hunt style Wade fork, 3.75" x 13" cantle. I can't describe like I know you educated saddlemakers can but that seat the way your legs would lay in it pulled me in first and foremost so "natural" seems like it would hold you so close and proper to a horse legs right where they need to be without any humps in the way...best way I can describe. LOL