Sharpening Stones

[Buddytink]

Im needing some sharpening stones. Im just starting out so I don't know much about sharpening stones. I know that there is different grit and all and thats about it. Do I have to use a stone to sharpen my tools or can i use sandpaper? Is there anywhere where I can buy a set of them or something so that I could have a little bit of everything when it comes to the different grits?

[dirtclod]

Go to you tube and put in knife sharping and you will find kinds of different ways to sharpen your knives with all types of stones and wet dry sand paper.

[BAD HIDE]

Learning how to put a razor sharp edge on a knife is one of those things that everyone should learn - it makes everything easier. I can't even cook a meal at someone's house without taking their knives and sharpening them.

You can use sandpaper, but I'd just get a set of bench stones, 2x6 or 3x8 or so, the most common are wetstones and oilstones - and you probably can pick up a cheap combination oilstone at the hardware store. I've still got one of these that I pull out from time to time. There's also ceramic stones, which cut just as good, but don't wear and dish nearly as much as natural stones. If you're looking for the last sharpening stones you'll ever buy, nothing beats diamond stones - industrial diamond grit bonded to a steel plate. It'll never warp, dish or dull.

You're going to want at least a coarse grit and fine grit, and then a leather strop charged with some white jewelers rouge.

[8thsinner]

I have to challenge the idea that diamond stones will never dish or wear. Try to re-profile a blade hardened to 64rc and you might too

But unless your getting into extreme blades diamonds are a very good choice.

But I have always been partial to Japanese wet stones. They are more expensive usually but worth it, cut fast and last ages.

[BAD HIDE]

I have to challenge the idea that diamond stones will never dish or wear. Try to re-profile a blade hardened to 64rc and you might too

But unless your getting into extreme blades diamonds are a very good choice.

How can it dish? it's about a 1/16" of material bonded to a steel plate, and unlike other kinds of stones, the diamonds don't wear down. Yeah, it's gonna take longer to chew on a very hard blade, but rockwell hardness doesn't mean squat when you're using it against the very same material used to determine rockwell hardness. I've had one for about 8 years now, and it's still as aggressive and flat as the day I bought it.

Edited September 2, 2010 by BAD HIDE

[King's X]

I just got my Woodcrafter catalog and they have both Arkansas Stones and Japanese water stone sets at a decent price. I believe the Arkansas set is $49 for the smaller stones and $79 for the larger ones that 8thSinner mentioned. They will be in their own wooden box. You will use oil with these stone. The set come in everything to you need to get your edge on.

The Japanese water stones, which I use, are also available, but I believe they are like $129 & $159?? I would have to take a look to make sure. They also have some interesting rouges that they recommend for wood carvers and lathe operators. I might try the combined green rouge though it is a bit up there at $22.95 for a block. I like these stones because they use water to prevent the pores from clogging up. Note: there is a difference in the grit formulation for the American, Japanese and China stones.

To me they do not take a lot of force and I am happy with my edges. But I am sure I can make them better for sure. After reading several of Hidepounder's thread, I am sure that I do not have it as sharp as I could, but it is something that needs to be taught to me.

If anyone is up to a tutorial, that would so cool!

Good luck!

[Spinner]

I just got my Woodcrafter catalog and they have both Arkansas Stones and Japanese water stone sets at a decent price. I believe the Arkansas set is $49 for the smaller stones and $79 for the larger ones that 8thSinner mentioned. They will be in their own wooden box. You will use oil with these stone. The set come in everything to you need to get your edge on.

The Japanese water stones, which I use, are also available, but I believe they are like $129 & $159?? I would have to take a look to make sure. They also have some interesting rouges that they recommend for wood carvers and lathe operators. I might try the combined green rouge though it is a bit up there at $22.95 for a block. I like these stones because they use water to prevent the pores from clogging up. Note: there is a difference in the grit formulation for the American, Japanese and China stones.

To me they do not take a lot of force and I am happy with my edges. But I am sure I can make them better for sure. After reading several of Hidepounder's thread, I am sure that I do not have it as sharp as I could, but it is something that needs to be taught to me.

If anyone is up to a tutorial, that would so cool!

Good luck!

The green stuff is awesome for metal polishing. I use it on the brass and copper parts I make and also use it when polishing my metal spinning tools (which need to be super duper extra shiny polished smooth). Interestingly enough, it also works well when putting a final polish on wood products like the larger woodturnings I used to do. Very versatile and leaves very little residue unlike most other compounds. I have a 1 lb. bar I bought 6 years ago that still has over 1/2 it's life left...a little goes a long way.