skyblast Report post Posted September 29, 2010 This has been really bugging me for some time now. In this picture, which I believe is the first step, how does one get a nice deep wide channel with a swivel knife? When I've tried using my swivel knife I get a very thin slice that does not stay wide. Any suggestions for how to get a nice wide channel with a swivel knife as shown in the pic? Is there a step I'm missing? Thanks The picture is supposed to show step one in making a floral design in leather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted September 29, 2010 This has been really bugging me for some time now. In this picture, which I believe is the first step, how does one get a nice deep wide channel with a swivel knife? When I've tried using my swivel knife I get a very thin slice that does not stay wide. Any suggestions for how to get a nice wide channel with a swivel knife as shown in the pic? Is there a step I'm missing? Thanks The picture is supposed to show step one in making a floral design in leather HI! And welcome to the forum. 2 things that make the most difference and they are really important. Make sure that your leather is cased properly. Too wet and the cuts will mush and close. Too dry and you won't get them open in the first place! Search casing leather on the forum and you will get 1000 new friends chiming in! Secondly, make sure that your cuts are deep and even. When I first started (NO instruction, teacher, etc) I was very timid in CUTTING the leather. I merely "scored" it thinking that it was deep enough! Of course the beveling was timid too and the pieces came out like someone had gently used a scratch awl on a piece of glass!!! Submit your stuff- we'll all be glad to critique it and get you on your way write if you find work! pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblast Report post Posted September 29, 2010 HI! And welcome to the forum. 2 things that make the most difference and they are really important. Make sure that your leather is cased properly. Too wet and the cuts will mush and close. Too dry and you won't get them open in the first place! Search casing leather on the forum and you will get 1000 new friends chiming in! Secondly, make sure that your cuts are deep and even. When I first started (NO instruction, teacher, etc) I was very timid in CUTTING the leather. I merely "scored" it thinking that it was deep enough! Of course the beveling was timid too and the pieces came out like someone had gently used a scratch awl on a piece of glass!!! Submit your stuff- we'll all be glad to critique it and get you on your way write if you find work! pete Thank you Thank you Thank you. I am so excited to go home and get started.....wetting the leather Who knew??? Thanks!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted September 29, 2010 Thank you Thank you Thank you. I am so excited to go home and get started.....wetting the leather Who knew??? Thanks!!! Following Pete's suggestion, check out this Bob Park article on Casing (wetting) leather properly. This will be a big help. http://www.leatherworker.net/Bob%20Park/Casing%20Leather.pdf Something else to consider is the blade thickness. If you're looking to do tooling, a standard swivel blade is right. They also make wider blades for cuts that you want to really show up as well as very thin blades for doing filigree work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted October 9, 2010 The angle of the blade is yet another factor. For really thin material, I prefer to use a blade with a shallower angle to it. For thicker leather (anything over 5oz) I have a narrower grind. As a general rule, cut to 1/3 the depth of the leather for general tooling needs. Some things will need to be deeper, some not so deep. If it's thick enough that I'm not gonna risk cutting through it, I'll use the blade's bevel as my depth guide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted October 11, 2010 I just remembered something that I read here. I'm giving the credit to Bob Park.Even if it wasn't him....his stuff is so cool! Kudos, BOB! Use a thin blade on thick leather. Cuts deeper and bevels well. Use a thicker blade on thin leather. It makes a wider cut without having to go deep. Is that right, Bob? Anyway- I've been doing it since and I really like the difference. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted November 13, 2010 I just remembered something that I read here. I'm giving the credit to Bob Park.Even if it wasn't him....his stuff is so cool! Kudos, BOB! Use a thin blade on thick leather. Cuts deeper and bevels well. Use a thicker blade on thin leather. It makes a wider cut without having to go deep. Is that right, Bob? Anyway- I've been doing it since and I really like the difference. pete Sorry Pete....I missed this entire thread. Your theory about using a thick blade on thin leather is basically correct. The idea, though, is to use a blade sharpened with a very flat bevel so that there is less penetration in the leather while leaving a wide cut to work. Peter Main designed and sells a blade that he had Henley make for him for just that purpose and it works very well...I use it a lot. With thick leather, most any blade will do. You are correct that a thin blade will cut deeper a little easier than a thicker blade. The key to any blade of course is that it must be sharp! Hope this helps... Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
