Dyeing Holsters

[rccolt45]

I was wondering why most prople dye there holsters before they build them and not just wait until its already put together? I have found when I dye first the holster is not as will to absorbe water and makes molding that much harder.

Is there something I am missing?

[Dwight]

It's a trade off, really. If you dye first, depending on the type dye you use, . . . can become less responsive to water forming. I am not a chemist so I cannot tell you why that happens, . . . but you are right, . . . it does happen.

If you cut, edge, sew, and mold first, . . . depending on how you edge, your edges may not look the way you want them later on, . . . and you run the risk of some inadvertant contact cement or glue getting on the product, . . . preventing it from taking on dye like it should.

The old master, Lou Alessi, told me himself that they always cut their pieces out and then and there threw them into the dye process. He made a lot of holsters that way, and most of his customers were happy ones.

In this, . . . there is no "right" way, . . . just the way that works best for you.

May god bless,

Dwight

[katsass]

I was wondering why most prople dye there holsters before they build them and not just wait until its already put together? I have found when I dye first the holster is not as will to absorbe water and makes molding that much harder.

Is there something I am missing?

I cut out my pieces, then dye. I usually use a contrasting thread (enclosed pic of a range holster for a 1911 Long Slide) when I stitch as I don't particularly care for same color stitching. Stitching, then dieing, just isn't conducive for that sort of thing. Personally, I don't find that much difference when molding my holsters whether died or not. Of course I don't apply a finish 'till the very last. Mike

[rccolt45]

Thanks guys, good to know that I am not totally ass backwards!!!

[Deanimator]

I was wondering why most prople dye there holsters before they build them and not just wait until its already put together? I have found when I dye first the holster is not as will to absorbe water and makes molding that much harder.

Is there something I am missing?

I don't dye until the holster is totally assembled. It works well for me.

[Shorts]

Dye and top coat are my final steps. I hate to dye a holster before wet mold. The dyed leather grabs my boning tool and makes it very difficult to get a nice smooth line. Not to mention dye residue all over my sponge pads and stitchin' machine platform, hands, clothes or anything else it touches while being built.

As said, it's a preference so find what you like and do it.

[JeffGC]

Most of my holsters are black with black thread. I dip-dye after sewing and forming. If the holster is a lighter color or if I'm using contrasting stitching, I'll dye (air brush) before assembly.

Regards,

Jeff

[Lobo]

Each approach offers benefits while also presenting challenges, as already described.

Personally, I dye after forming using the immersion method (dip-dyeing). The benefits are less mess during stitching, forming, etc, and easier forming. The challenges include achieving good dye penetration in leather that has been formed, molded, heavily compressed in some areas, etc, all of which inhibit dye penetration.

I am experimenting with a new finish color, kind of a dark tan with white stitching. This requires that the pieces be dyed prior to assembly and stitching. One of the challenges that I am dealing with is color transfer from the dyed leather to the thread during the finishing processes. I've found that the longer I wait after dying before assembly and stitching, the less color transfer occurs when finishes are applied. I have waited up to a week after dying the pieces before proceeding, and noticably less color transfer is taking place. The obvious down side is longer production times.

Best regards.

[mattsh]

To each his own. As Dwight said, the highly regarded master craftsman Lou Alessi, shared with me that he did the dye right after the pieces were cut then he did the edges then.... He and I had a discussion about this because at the time I was just getting started in leatherwork and making holsters. I was having a problem with any of the "boned" parts of the holster not taking the dye very well. He asked me the process I was using and I told him my process (at the time I was doing the molding, boning and stitching first and dye last). Lou then said that I should try doing the dye before the molding and boning as these processes compress the fibers of the leather and can make it so that those parts of the leather become more resistant to taking the dye as evenly as the rest of the leather. I have been doing it that way ever since. As the others have said, to each his own and whatever works for them, works for them. Experiment and enjoy.

[billymac814]

How do you guys keep your thread white? I have been dyeing my holsters last and most of my holsters to date have been black/black thread or just natural oiled with white thread. Now I'm getting into some different colors so I've experimented with dyeing first, then glue together, then stitch, then wetform but after wetforming my dye is visible on the white stitching. I only left the dye dry about 24 hours, this maybe part of my problem if I were to guess. I'm using Fiebings spirit dyes.

I'll try letting it dry longer, but any other tips or tricks?