Rivets Pulling Loose

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

Generally I've got a piece of 1/8" latigo strap as backing, then 1 or 2 layers of 18oz Canvas then another piece of 1/8" latigo strap.

I tried cutting the rivets down with a wire cutter but it just deforms the shaft and then it won't fit into the rivet head.

I did some yesterday and switched to a big ol claw hammer and I have more success than previously but still had a few pull out.

I'd go for the Rivet/Burr fasteners but they are like 20 cents apiece! I love the look of copper and all but that's pretty steep. Riddle me this, would a Tubular rivet offer equivalent strength to a rivet/burr fastener? They seem pretty tough and the price is a little more up my alley.

[Charke]

I'll pass along what little I've learned about rivets. My work is generally on leather armor, which has to take a lot of weight. Losing rivets is simply going to eventually happen in this case so I've had plenty of chances for repairs and rethinking. I started with a rubber mallet which was just terrible. Plastic or metal creates a sharper strike which creates a better mushroom. If the rivets are leaning over, if the top and bottom aren't lined up straight, something is wrong. Usually the rivet is too long, but it can also happen if you are not striking the rivet straight on. When I started I always used 3 rivets per critical joint. I'm more comfortable with my riveting and I've gone down to 2 rivets. One thought about multiple rivets is that they aren't supporting as much weight that way.

Twisting and pulling are a consideration. Are your rivets comming out of the some locations but not others? There might be more force on certain areas, especially as the product is used, that you may not have considered. I can not say looking at the pictures. It's a stab in the dark. You might try enhancing your rivets with stitches - but I don't know the pattern of what you are doing so that might not be possible.

It does sound like you are using knock-off rivets - especially if they are comparing themselves to Tandy but skirting copyright by avoiding their name. That could be your problem. I would try some Tandy rivets and see how they hold up.

I've never used double caps. I have some. They just haven't gone into anything yet because most of my rivets are hidden on one side. So I am speaking here without a gap in my knowledge.

I do swear by Chicago Screws for strength, but you've already mentioned costs are an issue. Screws tend to cost about 50 cents each which is a LOT more than a rapid-rivet. Screws never break (that I've seen) but they are notorious for working themselves undone unless you use thread-loc or screw-lock on them. Even then, there is always the odd one determined to come out so you end up checking your gear on a regular basis.

I hope I've been of some help.

Mark Charke

[busted]

Generally I've got a piece of 1/8" latigo strap as backing, then 1 or 2 layers of 18oz Canvas then another piece of 1/8" latigo strap.

I tried cutting the rivets down with a wire cutter but it just deforms the shaft and then it won't fit into the rivet head.

I did some yesterday and switched to a big ol claw hammer and I have more success than previously but still had a few pull out.

I'd go for the Rivet/Burr fasteners but they are like 20 cents apiece! I love the look of copper and all but that's pretty steep. Riddle me this, would a Tubular rivet offer equivalent strength to a rivet/burr fastener? They seem pretty tough and the price is a little more up my alley.

You have half of the battle won (16 ounce hammer). You need something that is solid to back up your rivet. A piece of latigo will not do the job.

It allows the rivet to sink into the leather when you strike it. Try a piece of 3/4 inch steel flat stock and don't put anything behind the rivet other

than that now strike it with the hammer.

When you get the double ended rivet set properly you will not need the tubular rivets.

Copper burrs are for material 1/2" or over I use the 1" burrs for the nose bands I make you don't need anything with that much holding power.

Usually a tubular rivet is not stronger than a solid rivet.

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

Charke, Twisting and Pulling is exactly the situation I've got where the rivets are coming out. They are holding on leather attachment loops which dangle the bag from the mounting points on a bike saddle. I considered Chicago Screws as well but again, for the price point I'm working at they are too expensive. Although the biggest expense is having a bag fail because of a bad rivet, so the cost of using something like a Chicago Screw might be well worth the safety factor.

Busted, I must not have explained myself clearly. I'm using a steel Anvil on the bottom side of the rivet, the Latigo is what's being riveted.

I've got it like this: Rivet->Latigo Strap->Canvas(2 layers)->Latigo Strap->Rivet

I put one side of the rivet on my anvil, the other side I hit with the setter and my claw hammer.

Edited November 7, 2010 by Zaphod Beeblebrox

[busted]

Charke, Twisting and Pulling is exactly the situation I've got where the rivets are coming out. They are holding on leather attachment loops which dangle the bag from the mounting points on a bike saddle. I considered Chicago Screws as well but again, for the price point I'm working at they are too expensive. Although the biggest expense is having a bag fail because of a bad rivet, so the cost of using something like a Chicago Screw might be well worth the safety factor.

Busted, I must not have explained myself clearly. I'm using a steel Anvil on the bottom side of the rivet, the Latigo is what's being riveted.

I've got it like this: Rivet->Latigo Strap->Canvas(2 layers)->Latigo Strap->Rivet

I put one side of the rivet on my anvil, the other side I hit with the setter and my claw hammer.

OK I was misunderstanding the structure of your pile. Try doing away with the setter use just the hammer. Try this on scrap pieces.

What you are doing should work just fine.

[Xander]

I had a similar problem. As it turned out, the shaft of the rivet (I used rapid rivets) was too long for the ounceage of leather. I slipped a "washer" in there, and that did the trick. No more skewing to the side!

[MedusaOblongata]

I've successfully used similar rivets. I've found that without the setter, the top of the rivet comes out looking very ugly. But I've been able to get them to stick using the setter. Other than hitting them pretty hard, I usually hit each rivet twice, then flip it over (since the two parts of the setter are not identical) and hit it twice more. Then I try to pull it apart. Once in a while, one will come apart, but if it doesn't come apart right then, it won't come apart later either.

If you're just making one or two bags, by all means go with the more expensive and stronger chicago screws. If you're making a lot of them, then it'll have to be rivets.

Has anyone else found a difference hitting a rivet more than once?

[Thistledown]

Ahhh..not having any personal experience with the type of rivets you are using, I was just wondering. Do these type of rivets come in different widths ? Is it possible that the heads are too wide to lock on properly even if the shaft has mushroomed ? Just my ignorant two cents worth . I normally use the copper rivets and roves, properly done, they'll never pull apart, leather will rip first.- but they are much more expensive

[KateC]

I repair saddle bags that loose their rivets all the time. These are set commercially. Sometimes setting another rivet works, but if its going to have alot of abuse, Chicago Screws are the way to go. Also You can grind down a long shaft to be the proper lenth to set. Works well for me. I use the ones from the Leather Factory (Tandy).

[roo4u]

i use double cap rivets for my dog stuff but i dont use the elcheapos i get the solid brass ones as they set better and the metal is tougher so they dont pop off...but for aggitation collars that take alot of abuse i use chicago screws with locktite on them.