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Posted

hey guys, i was wondering what your opinions is on lining the back of gunbelts with? suede? latigo? another piece of veg-tan? i've not made one yet but im wanting some opinions and what would you guys use as far as a good heavy duty buckle? or would that matter as much? thanks guys

-Robert

Posted

I have made gun belts for concealed carry applications in 3 ways. First is a single-layer belt of 9-10 oz. veg-tanned, which is suitable for light to medium weight handguns. Second is made of 9-10 oz. with a lining of 4-5 oz. veg-tanned, which is good for medium to heavy handguns. Third is 9-10 oz. with lining of 7-8 oz. veg-tanned, which will support just about any weapon.

My typical belt is 1.5" width around the body tapered to 1" at the front for improved comfort. I usually use the Oxford-style buckles, which are small and rounded for better comfort.

My personal carry rig consists of a Kimber Custom CDP 1911 5" .45 pistol in my Enhanced Pancake model holster on the 9-10/4-5 oz belt combination. It is very durable and very comfortable.

In my experience, single-layer belts can be expected to give about one to two years service in daily use. The single-layer belts will stretch more easily than a belt with substantial lining cemented and stitched in place. The two-layer belts will usually give at least double the service life of a single-layer belt. Linings of suede or other light, flexible leathers add nothing to load-bearing capability or service life, in my opinion.

When making belts for a customer I recommend getting an accurate measurement of the belt he is now wearing, from tip of buckle to the tongue hole in use. This is usually about 2" larger than trouser waist size. Also, try to make sure that the customer's holster will accept the belt to be used. Both width and thickness need to be considered. My 9-10/4-5 oz. combination results in a thickness just under 1/4", and some holsters have belt attachment points that won't accept the added thickness readily. The 9-10/7-8 oz. combination finishes out at slightly over 1/4" thickness.

Also to be kept in mind is the fact that many dress and casual trousers have belt loops that will not accept the wider and thicker belts. It never hurts to discuss this with customers before they have something they can't easily use, in which case it will always be your fault (in their minds).

Best regards.

Lobo Gun Leather

serious equipment for serious business, since 1972

www.lobogunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

Adding just a little to Lobo's information: when you sandwich two pieces of leather together, flesh side to flesh side, it becomes much stronger as both faces (inside and outside) are now the hair side of the leather, . . . which is the strong side.

I also personally detest a belt with a suede liner, . . . the darned thing will not slide like I want my belts to all do, . . . ugggghhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

I usually start out with a 8/9 piece of leather for the outside, . . . hit it with the calipers, . . . then find another one that will get me in the .210 to .240 area of thickness, . . . just under 1/4 inch. I also set my strap cutter to 1 7/16 inches for the reasons Lobo mentioned about width.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

Lobo summed everything up quite well, I line mine with Veg tan as well. I feel the stitching and double thickness keeps it from stretching. I've used the utitlity buckles from Springfield that are very inexpensive with good results, I'm sure you can find much better but they serve thier purpose, I always use chicago screws so the buckles can be easily replaced.

Now I'll add a question to this. Does anyone cut thier belts on a curve?

  • Members
Posted

idk about belts made for concealed carry, but the few regular belts i've made i just cut straight. personally i feel like its a bit of a design preference and a way for the larger companies to charge a few extra bucks on something that will happen naturally with wear and use, thats just my opinion though

  • Members
Posted

I've only made a few belts. The gunbelts have been lined with 7/8 oz horse hide with 7/8 oz veg top. Adds a little extra stability in my opinion. The one dress belt I made was 10 oz with a 3oz pigskin lining- flesh side out. I burnished the lining to prevent the sticking issue.

By the end of the show you start telling them you keep a few head of steers behind the house and go out and carve off a strip when you need it, it grows back in 5 or 6 weeks. - Art

JR

  • Members
Posted

I think I will probably make belts with a curve, but only on heavy gun belts with bullet loops and in the 2.5 - 3" sizes. Smaller belts seem to shape themselves in a short bit of time and the big gun belts are worn a little lower (below the main belt) more on the hips where a little curve will make the belt fit right, right now.

  • Members
Posted

After reading Lobos reply I decided to make myself a gun belt. I uused 9/10 oz veg tan lined with 3/4 oz veg tan. At first I thought it might be a bit too thick but it turned out perfect for conceled carry on my Starfire M40. I have to tell you there is a real difference that you notice right away when you are using a purpose made belt.

I still need to work on my stitching, as I always seem to end up withb a cpl of wobbles on the stitch line.

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