Members Dwight Posted April 6, 2013 Members Report Posted April 6, 2013 Thanks, guys, for the vinegaroon info, . . . I can definitely see where that could make a dent in my production costs as a lot of the stuff going out my front door is black. I briefly email / chatted with Will on vinegaroon a couple years ago, . . . but just haven't had the time to begin another new process. Just may do that this summer, . . . IF, . . . and that's a big IF, . . . I get my new shop. Looking to relocate the leather work. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members chiefjason Posted April 7, 2013 Members Report Posted April 7, 2013 The tedious part for me was doing lots of backers for hybrid holsters. And the finishing process I was using. I've stopped using mop & glo as my final finish on my all leather stuff. And I've gone to pre dyed for hybrids. I grooned 3 holsters today. I grooned them, then let them set a bit to turn good. Then let them soak in baking soda and water for a bit. Then heated them in the dryer for an hour. Let them cool off. Then oiled them once. I'll start sewing tomorrow. The old way I would have heated them in a light box for several hours then let them dry 24 hours. Then two light coats of oil, let dry 24. Then start sewing. Then apply the finish. Dry 24. And a last coat of finish. I was having issues with the finish spiderwebbing if the leather did not dry well between steps. With the oil and beeswax finish that's not a concern and allows me to speed things up a bit. There is really no real time difference between dying and grooning now. IMO, it's worth it though. The combination of cost savings and the complete black you get keeps me coming back to it. Quote
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