Stitching Help Required

[Runner]

Hi All

This is my first time posting on this site. I am new to leatherworking and I am experiencing problems piercing two pieces of leather with a diamond awl. Because i am unable to pierce through two pieces of leather I have been trying different strategies or solutions. I have sharpened and polished the awl to improve piercing capability-not working. I have experimented using a Diamond profile hole punch. Work OK on one piece of leather, but not two pieces. I am finding it impossible to align two pieces of leather, punch holes through both to ensure that the holes accurately follow a stitch groove line on the other side of the leather. I have mounted an awl blade in a bench press-works OK, but does not accurately pierce the holes to follow the stitch groove line. I have viewed some expert leather workers completing saddle stitch and they make using the awl look easy. What am I doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards Runner

[Ferg]

Hi All

This is my first time posting on this site. I am new to leatherworking and I am experiencing problems piercing two pieces of leather with a diamond awl. Because i am unable to pierce through two pieces of leather I have been trying different strategies or solutions. I have sharpened and polished the awl to improve piercing capability-not working. I have experimented using a Diamond profile hole punch. Work OK on one piece of leather, but not two pieces. I am finding it impossible to align two pieces of leather, punch holes through both to ensure that the holes accurately follow a stitch groove line on the other side of the leather. I have mounted an awl blade in a bench press-works OK, but does not accurately pierce the holes to follow the stitch groove line. I have viewed some expert leather workers completing saddle stitch and they make using the awl look easy. What am I doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards Runner

I assume you are not clamping your leather piece in a stitching horse or similar? Did you glue the two pieces of leather together first? Barge cement works best.

You need to stroke a strop embedded with jewelers rouge with your awl, all three sides of the diamond. If you hold the awl level your stitches will line up from one side to the other. Sounds like you need to practice on some scrap. Practice is always a good thing

ferg

[Runner]

I assume you are not clamping your leather piece in a stitching horse or similar? Did you glue the two pieces of leather together first? Barge cement works best.

You need to stroke a strop embedded with jewelers rouge with your awl, all three sides of the diamond. If you hold the awl level your stitches will line up from one side to the other. Sounds like you need to practice on some scrap. Practice is always a good thing

ferg

Hi Ferg

Sorry I didn't explain more clearly. I am using a stitch Pony and clamp the two pieces together. I am using scrap pieces and not glue ( but I have on other projects). I have stropped my awl using J-rouge so that it is polished. I probably need more practice to raise a better burr. However, i have some experience of knife sharpening and can keep each side and corresponding bevel of the diamond awl sharpened using a 4000 grit Japanese Waterstone followed by a very fine Washita stone/and or Ceramic rod and then lots of stropping to polish the edge. Although the awl might not be super sharp, I think the problem is not wholly inability to pierce due to lack of sharpness. But rather the leather due to it's thickness. This leads me to suspect stabbing strength and technique is the problem. Any ideas? Help.

Runner

[Aggiebraider]

First, how thick is the leather you are trying to sew?

Secondly, are you waxing your awl before you try and pierce the leather? If not, try using beeswax and just stab the awl into it as far as you feel necessary. This will allow the awl to slide through the leather as it pierces it and not grab. Then just rewax as needed.

Strength could be an issue, no offense as I have no idea how strong you are. I am a very large guy, and sometimes have trouble getting my awl through really thick stuff.

The leather quality or moisture content could also be the problem. If the leather is really dry, you might not completely fix the problem with just wax. You could also try casing the leather prior to sewing. Most projects require this and so once you get to sewing it together it should be wet enough, but since you are using scraps you may have not tried that.

Hope this helps,

CW

[Runner]

First, how thick is the leather you are trying to sew?

Secondly, are you waxing your awl before you try and pierce the leather? If not, try using beeswax and just stab the awl into it as far as you feel necessary. This will allow the awl to slide through the leather as it pierces it and not grab. Then just rewax as needed.

Strength could be an issue, no offense as I have no idea how strong you are. I am a very large guy, and sometimes have trouble getting my awl through really thick stuff.

The leather quality or moisture content could also be the problem. If the leather is really dry, you might not completely fix the problem with just wax. You could also try casing the leather prior to sewing. Most projects require this and so once you get to sewing it together it should be wet enough, but since you are using scraps you may have not tried that.

Hope this helps,

CW

Hi CW

I've not tried waxing the awl blade. I'm sure this will help. The leather is 3ml x2. I guess i'm not very strong. Never thought of casing the leather first. I wil try all three and probably more press-ups! Regards

Runner

[Ellen]

For a leather of this thickness some drill stitching holes using drill press or Dremel drill press. Others, if you have Valery Michaels book, use fine sharp 4-8 tooth chisels and mallet to punch holes before start sewing with diamond shaped awl. UK-made chzels in this book are much finer than what Tandy has. Somewhere here is thread about sewing with drill press, they use flat Tippman Boss machine to make holes. Something that creates enough pressure (press of mallet), and a very sharp object.

With awl blade watch for its flexing while it goes through the leather. If the leather is firm, or hardened, of became very stiff after spirit dye without oil, it may happen.

[bran7347]

Runner,

If you have access to a drill press take the awl out of the handle you have and place it in you drill press make your stitch groove and spacing marks. then take and place your work on the drill press table and use the press to punch your holes through. afterwards put your work back in your pony and stitch it up. I promise you will have better than machine results. The press makes sure that all your holes are perfectly perpendicular. You don't need to run the drill just use the press function of it. I drilled a small hole in the table of my drill press just big enough for the awl to pass through. You don't have to be strong.

[terrymac]

Runner,

If you have access to a drill press take the awl out of the handle you have and place it in you drill press make your stitch groove and spacing marks. then take and place your work on the drill press table and use the press to punch your holes through. afterwards put your work back in your pony and stitch it up. I promise you will have better than machine results. The press makes sure that all your holes are perfectly perpendicular. You don't need to run the drill just use the press function of it. I drilled a small hole in the table of my drill press just big enough for the awl to pass through. You don't have to be strong.

I take it step further and remove the awl chuck from the handle, and insert the rod end of the awl chuck in the drill press. This way your awl bladed is always straight. I have a Tandy awl handle and the chuck just pulled out. My drill press has a laser pointer and it really speeds up lining up on the spacing marks.

Terry

[Tree Reaper]

After reading this I went and dug out my arbor press, I had a three jaw drill chuck adapted to it several years ago which is perfect for holding a needle.

The only problem being the needle wants to stick coming out of the leather and bees wax doesn't help.

Mink oil helps and it will probably be ok on dyed leather but it might stain natural leather, not sure yet, still experimenting.

I don't have a sewing machine but I imagine that's what the foot does is holds the leather down.

The press makes it cowboy simple for punching holes in leather.

Kevin.

[terrymac]

After reading this I went and dug out my arbor press, I had a three jaw drill chuck adapted to it several years ago which is perfect for holding a needle.

The only problem being the needle wants to stick coming out of the leather and bees wax doesn't help.

Mink oil helps and it will probably be ok on dyed leather but it might stain natural leather, not sure yet, still experimenting.

I don't have a sewing machine but I imagine that's what the foot does is holds the leather down.

The press makes it cowboy simple for punching holes in leather.

Kevin.

Kevin,

Are you punching holes with a needle or an awl? I am using an awl blade, and it sticks a little, but I just hold my finger on the leather and it comes right out.. Can't really figure out why it is sticking so bad for you.

Terry

[Tree Reaper]

Terry;

You nailed the problem with it sticking.

I have a sewing awl needle in there and it's straight, that's why there's drag drawing the needle out.

I have another stitching awl on the way with spare blades so I'll pop one in when they arrive.

I'm sure that will work.

Making a better deck for the press today, looking forward to trying it on a project.

Thanks Terry!

Kevin,

Are you punching holes with a needle or an awl? I am using an awl blade, and it sticks a little, but I just hold my finger on the leather and it comes right out.. Can't really figure out why it is sticking so bad for you.

Terry