Members BConklin Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) I couldn't find a holster that I liked for my Ruger Old Army so I decided to make one.. Though I've never done any leatherworking before I figured it might be something I'd enjoy...I was right! I found there's a Tandy store not too far from me so I went up there, bought some leather and some tools et voila! a calfskin lined, custom fitted field holster for my favorite gun! The outer layer is 8 ounce veg tanned cowhide, the inside is 2 ounce veg tanned calf and the holster is hand stitched throughout except for two rivets on the rear flap to anchor those straps that come around the midriff and snap together. This setup enables me to take the holster off without undoing my belt. From tracing a template from the gun onto manila folder stock to burnishing the edges on the finished holster represents a whole bunch of hours of work but I thoroughly enjoyed the process. Though there are a few mistakes I'm quite happy with the outcome... especially since it's my first attempt. It's not bad looking at all. It's quite rigid and fits the gun perfectly and I think it'll do the job nicely. I went a little overboard buying leather so I plan to keep busy making several more holsters this winter. Come spring, maybe I'll have a custom holster for every pistol I own. :D Here's some pics. Edited January 18, 2011 by BConklin Quote
Members RWP Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 holy crap i wish my first attempt had turned out that well! mine will never see the light of day! lol you did a great job! looking forward to see more from ya! Quote
dirtclod Posted January 18, 2011 Report Posted January 18, 2011 Nice job !! Give yourself a Gold Star. Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted January 18, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted January 18, 2011 That's really very nice. Can we see the back side so we can see how you did the belt loop? Quote
Members particle Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 First attempt? Looks as good as most of the stuff for sale at the big-box gun store holster section! Nice job! Quote
Members dbusarow Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 Let me add another Good Job! Can't wait to see your 2nd, 3rd etc.. I would also like to see a photo of the back and a better shot of the main seam. Maybe we could critique your edging Dan Quote
Members BConklin Posted January 18, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks folks! Here's a couple of photos of the backside. I designed the straps so that they can pivot on the rivets when you pull the holster off through the belt. I figured there'd be less stress on them that way - but the result is that from the lining side the rivets look like they were placed haphazardly. I don't have any strap end punches yet - these were all done with a draftman's compass and a nice sharp wood chisel. I misjudged where the hammer strap should be placed and had to cut a notch in the strap so it didn't bind against the sharp edge of the hammer. Even though it's a mistake - I kinda think it looks cool that way. I think next time I might groove the lining for the stitches as well - the stitches stand proud as they are. Quote
Members Haystacker Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 Great looking holster. You got talent! Quote
Members BConklin Posted January 18, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) and...as requested - the main seam. So far it's only been burnished with a light pass using a felt wheel charged with beeswax in a dremel tool. Next trip to Tandy I'll get some gum tragacanth I guess... Next time, I think I'll glue the lining in before I cut the pattern out and stamp the stitching holes. With this holster, fearing the stitching holes would not line up on the main seam, I marked the template for stitching, folding it over to punch through both the front and back at the same time on the main seam. Then I scribed through the holes in the template onto the holster - thus ensuring the stitch holes would be aligned. Then I wet formed the outside to induce that curve - then glued in the liner. The result was glue spots on the main seam that won't take dye or darken with burnishing. Question: next steps would be to finish the leather and then seal it? What products should I use? It's nice and stiff now and I don't want anything that will soften the leather but I'd like to use some home made preparation if possible. Edited January 18, 2011 by BConklin Quote
Members Haystacker Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 One thing you may want to try is to sand your main seam edges. I use a belt sander. If you dont have a belt sander you can still do it by hand. With my belt sander, I do first pass with 80 grit, evens everything up and gets rid of excess glue. Next i wet the edge slightly, and then give it a couple of passes on belt sander with 120 grit. This adds an almost burnishing effect. Then I bevel the edge and slick it up with glycerine bar saddle soap, rubbed in with canvas or denim. Then I give the edge a pass on the burnisher which I use a wooden drawer knob on a drill press. When i did edges before the days of the belt sander, I would keep going with the sand paper until I finished with 400 grit. (80, 150, 220, 400) Thankfully those days are gone. Hope this helps. You sure do good work. Quote
Members BConklin Posted January 18, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 One thing you may want to try is to sand your main seam edges. I use a belt sander. If you dont have a belt sander you can still do it by hand. With my belt sander, I do first pass with 80 grit, evens everything up and gets rid of excess glue. Next i wet the edge slightly, and then give it a couple of passes on belt sander with 120 grit. This adds an almost burnishing effect. Then I bevel the edge and slick it up with glycerine bar saddle soap, rubbed in with canvas or denim. Then I give the edge a pass on the burnisher which I use a wooden drawer knob on a drill press. When i did edges before the days of the belt sander, I would keep going with the sand paper until I finished with 400 grit. (80, 150, 220, 400) Thankfully those days are gone. Hope this helps. You sure do good work. Thanks for the tips and for the compliment. No belt sander but I have all sorts of wood files and sandpaper - do you think I should try to glue those gaps closed in the main seam before I finish the edging? The saddle soap treatment - do you rub the bar of soap on the seam? Or do you dissolve it with water then rub it in with the canvas? Quote
Members Tac Posted January 18, 2011 Members Report Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Don't worry about trying to "fill in" the gaps, just sand them smooth... I use the unscented "Nutrigena" brand glyserine soap that you can by at any drug store and I rub it right on the seam to coat it, then burnish with a piece of canvas, rubbing in only one direction.. the canvas creates friction/heat and that is enough to help "melt" the glyserine soap into the leather. As said by those before, "Nice job". That is a very good first project and I am sure like the rest of us, you learned a lot in that first go... They only get better from here! Edited January 18, 2011 by Tac Quote
Members Haystacker Posted January 19, 2011 Members Report Posted January 19, 2011 Thanks for the tips and for the compliment. No belt sander but I have all sorts of wood files and sandpaper - do you think I should try to glue those gaps closed in the main seam before I finish the edging? The saddle soap treatment - do you rub the bar of soap on the seam? Or do you dissolve it with water then rub it in with the canvas? I don't know about trying to glue the gaps at this point. I'm hesitant to give any advice on that. If you sand and finish the edges without glueing them you are still going to have a very good looking usable holster. I agree with what tac said about the saddle soap. Tandy has it too. I cut a manageable chunk off the bar, wet the edge and rub the bar on the edge. I did take a thread spool with a dowel glued through it, covered with denim, and chucked up in my drill press for doing the edges. In my opinion The drill press works better than rubbing the edges by hand. I have no experience finishing with natural stuff like walnut shells or vinagroon. If you search this forum you should be able to find what you are looking for. Quote
Members BConklin Posted January 19, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 19, 2011 I did take the time to dab a bit of barge glue into the gap in the seam with a cheapo stiff bristle artist brush doing one 3 inch section at a time. I clamped each section for a few minutes in my home made stitching pony. The seam closed up nicely and the excess glue came right off when I went to work on the edge with files and then with a sanding drum in the Dremel. Worked like a charm! Tomorrow I'll get a bar of that soap. Thanks again for the tips! I gotta finish this one before I start the next but I'm already champing at the bit....I've got some ideas I can't wait to try out. Quote
Members yepod Posted January 19, 2011 Members Report Posted January 19, 2011 Great first time out! I too am anxious to see your next work. I agree with eveyones comments (darn I was too slow to respond)! I use the Fiebings glycerine bar saddle soap too with denim or canvas (thanks Hidepounder!) but I can't get it at my local Tandy. I go to a local tack shop and get it cheaper than most other places. A farm & fleet type place will often have a tack section too. I'll have to give Tac's "Nutrigena" glycerine bar soap a try, thanks! Quote
Members particle Posted January 19, 2011 Members Report Posted January 19, 2011 I haven't read every post in this thread, but if it hasn't already been said, I'd suggest that next time you make sure to glue all the way to the edge, which should eliminate those gaps in your edge. It sounds like you're a wood worker. Also, If you have a drill press, take a wooden dowel (like the wooden dowel from a sponge paint brush) and cut off the sponge tip. Place it in your drill press, turn it on, then use a round wood rasp (like a chain saw blade sharpener, but a little bigger) and cut grooves in your dowel. While it's still on, wrap some sand paper around it to sand it smooth and you have yourself a custom burnisher! Not the greatest (wood's too soft), but it should last you for about 100 holsters or more. You can see an example of the one I made in my video on my website. Quote
Members BConklin Posted January 20, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 20, 2011 Thanks for all your help guys - I finished the project last night and posted pics here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29135 This is a fascinating hobby - I'm glad I decided to take it up. Quote
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