Sixer Report post Posted February 23, 2011 I see a number of great looking holsters here, and they all have such neat and clean belt slots. I've tried a 1 1/2 in oblong punch... a hole punch, wood chisel, and dremel sander... Just not getting the nice clean looking results I'm after. Anyone care to share their preferred method of cutting belt slots in OWB holsters? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marine mp Report post Posted February 23, 2011 Sixer, I use a 1/4" hole punch and a 1 -1/4" SHARP wood chisel. I also lubricate both before using. Has worked for years. Semper-fi MIke Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregintenn Report post Posted February 23, 2011 I use a 3/8" hole punch on either end, then draw two lines with a pencil. I cut along the two lines with a hobby knife, and bevel the edges with a beveler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troop Report post Posted February 24, 2011 i use the 1 1/2 inch belt slot punch. i punch my slots right after taking it out of the water and before molding. Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted February 24, 2011 I'm with Troop. I use 1&1/2 and 1&3/4 punches from Texas Custom Die that cut a slot 3/8" wide. Like all of the punches they need to be reground and sharpened because the way they come they are ground for punching through only one thickness of leather. I punch the slots after stitching. I case the leather front and back to tap and close the stitches then punch the slots. At whatever point you punch though the leather needs to be moistened to prevent top grain split at the end of the slots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haystacker Report post Posted February 24, 2011 I'm with Troop. I use 1&1/2 and 1&3/4 punches from Texas Custom Die that cut a slot 3/8" wide. Like all of the punches they need to be reground and sharpened because the way they come they are ground for punching through only one thickness of leather. I punch the slots after stitching. I case the leather front and back to tap and close the stitches then punch the slots. At whatever point you punch though the leather needs to be moistened to prevent top grain split at the end of the slots. I do basically the same thing. I got the first die from TCD and it was not the right size and it was set up for a clicker press. I specifically wanted a die 1 and 9/16 x 5/16 and just the bottom portion of the die, no handle or top portion. Then I welded a socket onto the die and I use my shop press to punch the slots. It goes through multi layers of leather very easy. I punch top to bottom. Only the bottom layer has to be edge beveled. I will try to post a picture of my set up tomorrow if anyone is interested. I vary a little from Denster process - I don't wet the leather before punching. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted February 24, 2011 I don't want to bash TCD, because I know a lot of people are happy with the punches they received from them. I was not one of them. But like Denster said, be prepared to grind down the shoulder on the punch and sharpen them, because as they come from TCD, they are not suitable for 1/4" thick leather - they simply stretch the leather too much and will tear the ends of the slot if you aren't careful. I recently ordered one of the master punches from Weaver - a 1" oblong. I'm simply amazed at the difference. Now if they'd only make them cut wider slots for thicker belts... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RobDude30 Report post Posted February 24, 2011 I use a 3/8" hole punch and a 1 1/4" wood chisel as well. I then use my Dremel with the small drum sander attachment to clean up the slot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites