How To Keep Black Dye Off Of Your Clothes?

[Bobby hdflame]

I am making some straps that will hold a walkie talkie when on duty. The strap will go across one shoulder like a rifle sling. When wearing a white shirt in uniform, I have had the black dye come off on my shirt. I have put super sheen on it...several coats.

Any suggestions, other than lining with undyed/natural leather?

Thanks,

Bobby

Edited February 25, 2011 by Bobby hdflame

[Rayban]

I'll be interested in something that works too...I'm about ready to start making two-layer belts, and thinking of leaving the inside one natural for that very reason.

Nice rig tho!!

[jlaudio29]

What kind of dye did you use? When I bought my first dye the girl at Tandy suggested Fiebing USMC black die, since i explained to her that it was going on holsters and may come into contact with other things and i did not want to the die to rub off.. so this is what was suggested.

Hopefully someone else could chime in, but as far as what to currently do with an already died piece i am not sure.

[Dwight]

Actually it is a 3 step process:

1. After your black dye dries (after you think it is dry, . . . give it another 3 hours to be sure) take a wash cloth or 1/4 of a towel you do not want to ever use for anything else and seriously rub and burnish the whole project, . . . getting off the pigment/oxydation dust that is left after the dye has dried. You will be seriously surprized at the amount that comes off, . . . especially if you are using USMC black dye from Feibings.

2. Find an alternative use for the super sheen

3. Switch to Resolene, . . . applied with a bristle brush, . . . diluted to a 1:1 ratio with tap water. Brush it on until you form a small lather of bubbles, . . . keep brushing, left, right, up, down, cross ways, . . . until the bubbles disappear, . . . gently hang up to dry.

On belts, . . . I usually do the back, . . . then the edges, . . . roll it over, . . . do the front and address the edges a second time, . . . hang it on a piece of coat hanger wire through a buckle hole, . . . then "touch up" the last couple of areas I touched it with my fingers. I also use cheap latex gloves.

DO NOT try to force dry the Resolene, . . . something in the neighborhood of 125 deg F, . . . maybe a little fan, . . . give it 24 hours, . . . you should have no problems.

I have never had dye come off from a project I have done like the above. Though I don't do it, . . . some folks advocate a "Final" coat of neutral shoe polish, . . .

(Edited to add) Went back and took a second look at your work, . . . good stuff !!! I'm kinda sorta a throwback maybe, . . . but all this plastic, kydex, poly-whatever stuff has its uses, . . . but there will never be a piece of that man made junk that will be a beautiful as a hand made purse, wallet, pouch, holster etc. made from cowhide, . . . in my opinion anyway.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited February 25, 2011 by Dwight

[Rayban]

"3. Switch to Resolene, . . . applied with a bristle brush, . . . diluted to a 1:1 ratio with tap water."

Why dilute it? Instructions don't mention it...is it a bad idea to apply it straight out of the bottle?

[marine mp]

Bobby, A sure-fire way, other than the one which have already been mentioned, which are good also, is to "vinegaroon" the item black. You can find the process in the "How to do it" section or on the CAS City.com site. Vinegaroon is a reaction with the tannins which are used in the tanning process. It turns the leather black thru and thru. Not just a surface dye. All my black items are done thias way now. Semper-fi Mike

Rayban,

Resolene seems to leave streaks when it isn't diluted. I've used it both ways, and as Dwight says, dilute it 50/50. Works better that way. I also put 2 to 3 light coats on. Give it time to dry in between coats. Hurrying the processon anything w/leather usually results in a POS!!! Patience is the key. Semper-fi Mike

[Bobby hdflame]

Thanks for the answers and detailed instructions! I really appreciate it.

I was going to ask about a second coat of resolene. Also, instead of the neutral shoe polish, could I rub some of the Aussie wax I got from Tandy into the leather?

I didn't ask this as a part of the original question, but as you can see, I used some Eco-flo Cova Color to paint the letters on the leather. In the section where I stamped the leather with the letters, I painted the background with the black cova color too. I thought it might be easier than trying to use the dye around the letters and risk the chance of bleeding into the letter.

Can I also use the Resolene over the Cova Color, or should I stick with the super sheen on the top side where the acrylic paint is at? On the top and bottom side, I originally used Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax..... 3 coats, using the heat gun to assist in drying. That seemed to make the Cova Colors have little hairline cracks. Hard to see, but they are there. After that, and after the black came off on my shirt, I decided to use the super sheen.

I am also bad about using my heat gun to hurry along the drying process. I guess I need to just slow down and allow my dyeing and painting to dry over night!

Bobby

Edited February 25, 2011 by Bobby hdflame

[gregintenn]

When the dye is dry, I buff whatever it is with a shoe brush. That makes it shine, and gets all the dusty stuff off that rubs off later. Then you can finish it with whatever you want. I have good luck with the aerosol can of Super Sheen. Just don't spray it on too thick.

[robs456]

Bobby, A sure-fire way, other than the one which have already been mentioned, which are good also, is to "vinegaroon" the item black. You can find the process in the "How to do it" section or on the CAS City.com site. Vinegaroon is a reaction with the tannins which are used in the tanning process. It turns the leather black thru and thru. Not just a surface dye. All my black items are done thias way now. Semper-fi Mike

Actually, I had problem with 'roon rubbing off, check the replies in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26938

[marine mp]

Robs456,

I stand corrected. I should have added.......rub the piece of leather off good, as with any "black" dye", then add lubrication then a sealer of choice. I just figured that was a given. Then, if the "roon" was made properly, (and you admitted you made several mistakes when making yours), the venegaroon shouldn't rub off. I should have been more clear. Thanks. Semper-fi MIke

Edited February 27, 2011 by marine mp

[Bobby hdflame]

Thanks to all of the responses, suggestions, and links.

The first belts and radio straps I made, I didn't rub them with a rag to remove any of the residual dye left on the surface. I figured that putting 3 coats of Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax would have been sufficient......guess not. I have not worn it on a white shirt since applying an additional 3 coats of super sheen on the bottom side. (The side that would be against my shirt.) I also didn't apply any neatsfoot oil, Lexol, or other leather conditioner before sealing. I did this on the recommendation of the manager from the Tandy Store, and truthfully, I've always put some kind of conditioner on my leather items. The strap is very stiff. When I mentioned this to him, his answer was that you want new leather to have that stiff "New Leather" feel.I don't really agree with that, so after reading about using the vinegaroon and using different conditioners, I decided to use some neatsfoot oil on the straps I'm currently working on. I was kinda scared to apply the oil to the top side where I've painted with acrylic paint, so I applied a couple of coats with a piece of cotton rag on the bottom. I've got it laying out in the sun now, and plan on giving it 24 hours before dyeing. After dyeing, I'll give it another 24 hours before applying my top coat.

Does this sound consistent with when to apply the oil/Lexol treatment in relation to the timeline of staining and top coat?

I also plan on getting some Resolene to try, and making myself a batch of vinegaroon.

I'll post some pics and give you my results when I finish these two straps.

Thanks for all of the help.

Bobby