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  1. robs456

    When can you call yourself a craftsman?

    Dudes, excuse my absence in this very important thread. But let me end the artist/artisan confusion forever: Artist -drinks wine, eats oysters and/or foie gras. Artisan -drinks beer, eats fried chicken and/or fish.
  2. No sp*nk then? Sorry, seemed to be the only thing missing on that list...
  3. Right now experimenting with CMC (synthetic Gum Trag) and I can't find anything cheaper per liter. I'm sure there are better things out there but CMC gives a lot of bang for your bucks.
  4. robs456

    Signed Paul Burnett Books!

    So the dude is rocking two different signatures? I guess he didn't feel like signing 1000 copies with the 'artistic version', even though that one is much cooler...
  5. Thanks for the heads-up. Didn't buy anything from them for a couple of years now, good to know. Their stuff looks nice, but I've only bought some foil in small quantities from them. They're nice to deal with though.
  6. robs456

    ISO this purse pattern

    Nice, you're copying a Chinese copy? Like a revenge rip-off. Like in Ocean's 12... Seriously though, no joke, I wish you luck. Give'em hell....
  7. For trying out making stuff etc buy smaller quantities, try Tandy or
  8. robs456

    Help: Card Wallet Cards Bowing Outward

    Good thought. The bottom pocket is squeezing the cards around the T-pocket 'body'. Make the T 'arms' shorter. Skive down the T to a feather edge. Use thinner leather. That should help a bit.
  9. robs456

    Any way to pull dye OUT of leather?

    Neatsfoot oil will go through anything! Ok, maybe not. But I once managed to get a finished piece (super sheen I think) stained by accident by neatsfoot oil, so another time when after finishing with Angelus finisher (by airbrush) I noticed that the piece was too stiff so I put a thick layer on top of it and had it on overnight. Then in the morning most of it was still there but enough had seeped through to make the piece pliable. Removing the left over neatsfoot oil took a while and a few rags but in the end it worked. The piece was black, and I didn't notice any dark(er) spots, but I wonder how a lighter piece would look... If this is all rambling and no sense please excuse me, I'm hopped up on Taurine and vitamin B...AKA energy drinks...dangerous things...
  10. robs456

    Prepunching Holes?

    Yes, I got it! The first time, as well. Do I get a prize? Also, you are correct. Too bad you're leaving, but I understand, hope to see you in a while. As a parting gift I give you the root of the issue: . . . sorry...
  11. He's talking about Angelus dye, not paint. The Angelus paints are nice, but now when I use an airbrush I'm switching to Jacquard.... Edit: Ohdammit, replying to a 6 mts old post, soz....
  12. robs456

    Prepunching Holes?

    No, I was referring to the vile practice of actually using a drill to make holes for sewing or lacing. Which removes material. I can't really tell if chiefjason meant that he actually rotates the awl, but thinking about it that would mean that the hole gets burnished and probably won't close much or at all, and would make the leather smooth so that the thread doesn't grip all that well. Ya, I do too..OK.
  13. robs456

    Prepunching Holes?

    Gaah! I say again: I took it to mean that he mixed up drilling with a drill press, using a sewing machine, and using a drill press equipped with an awl. Maybe I was wrong about him referring to drilling. The rest of the mechanics I'm very familiar with.
  14. robs456

    Prepunching Holes?

    I read this to mean 'if you drill holes' and in that case it is totally right as the drill removes material. But then needles and awls get into the mix... Yes, going back to what Stohlman said ("The smallest hole, possible, for needle clearance is most desirable.") he means NOT to push the needle or awl all the way through as it will leave too big a hole to grip the thread. If you need the strength don't shove your awl all the way, just the tip will do. And never cross awls...