Hauss Report post Posted April 27, 2011 Hi All which would be the best for the money Juki 563 750.00 or consew 206RB 700.00 or consew 225 550.00 and what is the difference in a 110 volt and 220 volt motor they are less money if I get a 220 motor and the 206RB comes standard or set up with a binder. Thanks Hauss Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe9 Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Chances are that the 220 is a 3 phase motor which is a problem unless you are in a commercial building . House current is single phase . I sent you a PM also . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 28, 2011 If you have v220 volt outlets in your house or shop, a 220 volt, 3 phase motor will draw half the current as the 110 version would, for the same horse power output. If you do not have 220 volt, 3 phase outlets, those motors will be useless to you and will have to be replaced completely with 110 volt, single phase motors. Clutch motors typically sell for around $110 shipped. These machines were probably set-up for use by upholsters, or denim garment, or drapery sewers. Therefore, they probably have rather large pulleys on the motors, for high speed, get-er-done sewing. If you plan to use one of those machines to sew leather, you'll want to change the pulley on the motor to a 2" pulley. You will also need to buy a shorter v-belt, at -1 inch for ever inch the new pulley is smaller than the original. Not a big investment, but money out none-the-less. If you get a machine with a 110 volt clutch motor, but cannot master feathering the clutch, you will end up replacing it with a DC servo motor. This will cost you between $180 to $200.00 shipped, with a 2" pulley and a shorter belt (if needed). You never said what you want to use the machines to sew. Are you sewing vinyl seat covers, or buffing wheels, or cloth garments, or upholstery, or chaps, or pancake holsters? What? What number/size thread will you be using? How big will each project be? How thick? The job will dictate the type of machine best suited to perform it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hauss Report post Posted April 28, 2011 (edited) Hi Wiz mostly will be motorcycle seats biker chaps maybe a pancake holster and some handbags and wallets there will not be nothing real thick maybe 3/8" at the most thanks for the help. Thanks Hauss P.S. the electric is no problem have 220 in workshop! Edited April 28, 2011 by Hauss Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wvcraftsman Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Hi Wiz mostly will be motorcycle seats biker chaps maybe a pancake holster and some handbags and wallets there will not be nothing real thick maybe 3/8" at the most thanks for the help. Thanks Hauss P.S. the electric is no problem have 220 in workshop! If you've already got the 220V in your workshop, then I would get the 220V motor. As mentioned, it will be a lot more power efficient. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe9 Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Just double checking , I didn't want you to get one thing thinking it was something else , the 220v motors they have on their machines are 3 phase which is normally only available in commercial buildings , its not the same as what is on household dryers , welders ect. its 3 hot wires a neutral and a ground. you can run a phase converter but they cost more than a servo motor . Hi Wiz mostly will be motorcycle seats biker chaps maybe a pancake holster and some handbags and wallets there will not be nothing real thick maybe 3/8" at the most thanks for the help. Thanks Hauss P.S. the electric is no problem have 220 in workshop! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Hi Wiz mostly will be motorcycle seats biker chaps maybe a pancake holster and some handbags and wallets there will not be nothing real thick maybe 3/8" at the most thanks for the help. Thanks Hauss P.S. the electric is no problem have 220 in workshop! Hauss; Any one of the three machines you listed will sew the projects you described here. Look them over and under, lift the pressor feet with the knee lever, to check if the maximum clearance is suitable, then buy the cleanest machine, with the highest lift and smoothest action when you rotate the wheel 360 degrees. Toe down slightly on speed pedal to disengage the clutch, if the belt is on. Consider the 220 volt 3 phase motors to be paperweights, which will need to be replaced, and see if you can negotiate a better price. When you get you chosen machine home, order a new servo motor from one of our dealers. I bought mine (SewPro 500GR) from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Their phone number is 866-362-7397. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hauss Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Hi Wiz thanks for all the help I have a friend that will be going with me to pick one out that is a industrial sewing machine mechanic but he did not want to recommend one for leather as all he has seen them sew in textiles .thanks again for all the help it's great to have all the helpful and knowledgeable people on this site willing to give all us rookies help and encouragement so we can get better at this great art of leather working. Hauss Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simran Report post Posted April 29, 2011 Hi Wiz thanks for all the help I have a friend that will be going with me to pick one out that is a industrial sewing machine mechanic but he did not want to recommend one for leather as all he has seen them sew in textiles .thanks again for all the help it's great to have all the helpful and knowledgeable people on this site willing to give all us rookies help and encouragement so we can get better at this great art of leather working. Hauss Good Luck to you Haus, The right machine can make sewing a constructive experience as well as source of accomplishment. The wrong one can be a source of frustration & misery. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
