finish on saddle

[daviD A Morris]

G'day David'

. . .

Sorry for the length of this post. Your question required a long answer. I hope this is the information that you wanted.

Keith

Keith,

Thanks heaps for that, and to all the others who have contributed. I've printed this topic to keep if for future reference.

Regards

dam

[AZThunderPony]

This is exactly the info I have been looking for. Very good thread. I also have archived it.

However, some 30 years ago I stopped using neatsfoot oil to oil my saddles and equipment with because it rotted the thread out. I was told by what was then an old-timer saddler not to use it but to use pure Mink oil instead. I have used pure mink oil heated to a liquid form ever since and have been very happy with the results over the years. I'm curious if anyone uses mink oil instead of neatsfoot and if so why or why not? Any opinions on this?

;)S

[oldtimer]

This is exactly the info I have been looking for. Very good thread. I also have archived it.

However, some 30 years ago I stopped using neatsfoot oil to oil my saddles and equipment with because it rotted the thread out. I was told by what was then an old-timer saddler not to use it but to use pure Mink oil instead. I have used pure mink oil heated to a liquid form ever since and have been very happy with the results over the years. I'm curious if anyone uses mink oil instead of neatsfoot and if so why or why not? Any opinions on this?

S

First, in my opinion there are as many legends on oils rotting thread as there are oils and people discussing the matter, I don´t believe it for a second. I believe that the "rotted thread" is more a function of dust and grime that becomes abrasive during time. Second, I don´t believe that "Mink oil" is mink oil. The grease in the "Mink oil" labeled jars look like and smell like lard from pigs. I have been trapping minks many years ago, and a mink does not contain much grease, and I´m uncertain if there are as many minks on this earth to fill all jars of Mink oil that are for sale around the world ? Pure neatsfoot oil is the substance you get when boiling cow feet AND also pigs feet, so actually it is almost the same substance as mink oil. That´s my opinion on mink oil, neatsfoot oil and rotting threads. Leather needs some kind of lubrication to keep soft and supple , and either neatsfoot oil or mink oil is probably the best alternative.

/ Knut

Edited February 18, 2009 by oldtimer

[oldtimer]

I guess Mink Oil is a trade mark and the jar labeled with a pic of a mink, and that is where the connection to a mink ends. My brother in law drives a Chevrolet SUV, but one day I found out that the car was built i South Korea, so in my mind it is just a trade mark, it is not a real Chevrolet . The trade mark promises more than the content can live up to. Sorry, didn´t mean to hijack!

Edited February 19, 2009 by oldtimer

[AZThunderPony]

Good info, much appreciated. Learning new things all the time.

;)S

[Frank]

After doing a couple of saddle and some odds and ends things, I have really come to like the U-82 saddlers oil from Weaver. It's very light and absorbs instantly. The stuff seems to penetrate the leather exceptionally well. I then finish with tan-kote like a lot of you all do. My instructor and I did some mixing of oils while I was out there and tested them on leather. The straight U-82 did the best job as far as penetration. We just rubbed it on quickly with a small piece of shearling.

[JerryLevine]

Hi All,

Lots of stuff above about various different oils, etc, but no one addressed the difference between Pure Neatsfoot oil and Compound Neatsfoot. I know the latter has some 'additives', including some mineral oil (or so I understand). But what is it that makes compund neatsfoot something that is avoided by just about everyone?

I did meet a saddle maker in Florida who prefers compund to pure because the additives repel mildrew and insects (didn't ask about the mice though!) and ultraviolet light. So two supplimentary questions: 1. Do these additives actually repel mildew and insects and protect from UV and 2. I assume these properties would be considered to be "good things", what is the problem with compound neatsfoot that makes everyone steer clear of it?

Many thanks,

Jerry

[barra]

I use a few different preparations depending on the item or season.

Strap goods. Dales gold medal dubbin, made by Carr, Day and Martin. This stuff is a honey colour and has a gell like consisitency. I really do not know what is in it but do like the effect. I notice it is no longer on the Carr, Day and Martin website as a listed product anymore.

Saddles and harness. Either a couple of Australian dressings called Ge-Wy or Jay-el or RM Williams saddle dressing. I live about 10 minutes drive from the RM Williams factory so it is easy to come by for me.

Barra

Edited April 12, 2009 by barra

[jimsaddler]

I use a few different preparations depending on the item or season.

Strap goods. Dales gold medal dubbin, made by Carr, Day and Martin. This stuff is a honey colour and has a gell like consisitency. I really do not know what is in it but do like the effect. I notice it is no longer on the Carr, Day and Martin website as a listed product anymore.

Saddles and harness. Either a couple of Australian dressings called Ge-Wy or Jay-el or RM Williams saddle dressing. I live about 10 minutes drive from the RM Williams factory so it is easy to come by for me.

Barra

Hi Barra

I just read your mention of Gee Wy and remember the fact that it is recomended for cleaning the Chrome work on Cars. I've had to knock off for the day after repairing Saddles that were GREASED with it. B###dy stuff.Jay El is a Beeswax Dressing and quite good, the original recipe for it was to use Artists Turpentine to dissolve the Beeswax but they changed it and used Mineral Turpentine.

Olive Oil can have Castor oil added to it (1 large Spoon to 1/2 pint) to stop Mice being attracted to it, in fact I used to dress Top Turnout Show Saddles and Equipment with such a mixture to great effect.

So here is the original Beeswax Dressing recipe that I have used for nearly 50 years to keep Leather from going dark. Followed by a second recipe for Plaiting Grease which will also do a similar job.

1/2 lb Bleached Beeswax (Boiled to take the Honey out of it) aprox 3/4pint Pure (Artists)Turpentine. Shave or crumble the Beeswax into small pieces and pour it into the Turpentine in a large open mouth Jar and cap it. Shake it when ever you pass by until it is all disolved and combined into a sludgy paste. Keep it sealed when not used. This paste can be applied to your Leather evenly, in a warm area to assist in penetration. after a few hours it can be polished with a soft cotton cloth. Hey presto Water proof, preservative and Lubrication in one. RM's is similar but with the additon of Lanoline.

Plaiting Grease. A cake of Washing Soap,shaved into flakes (I use sunlight), 1/2 lb pure Lard (Pig Fat). Dissolve the cake of Soap in aprox 1 pint of Warm water overnight until you have a Jelly. Put in medium Saucepan and bring to simmer, add the Lard to melt with the hot Soap. When melted stir thoroughly and remove from Heat. Continue stirring and place the Saucepan in a few inches of Water in the Sink and continue stirring until the mixture cools to a Creamy White Foamy concoction. This dressing used to be used by Whip Makers while Plaiting thier Whips as it helps keep the Rooskin Pliable. I have found that it also is a good Saddle and Leather Dressing that also doesn't darken very much when used lightly over several applications.

I hope that these recipes are useful to you all.

Kindest Regards. Jim.

[barra]

Jim. I have a similar recipe.

Tallow

Beeswax (disolved in gum turpentine)

Macadamia oil (similar to mink oil)

Water

Lecithin (to emulsify the oils and water)

Small amount of eucalyptus oil to act as a mould inhibitor

Barra