finish on saddle

[jimsaddler]

Jim. I have a similar recipe.

Tallow

Beeswax (disolved in gum turpentine)

Macadamia oil (similar to mink oil)

Water

Lecithin (to emulsify the oils and water)

Small amount of eucalyptus oil to act as a mould inhibitor

Barra

Many thanks Barra.

Yours is an improvement on mine and I'll make a batch up to try.

I just had an idea of adding the Castor oil and Teatree oil also to stop the Mice and other bugs.

Anyone got any ideas so we can create a perfect Leather Dressing?

Kindest Regards.

Jim.

[barra]

I have been researching the ingredients of some of the major brands of leather dressings.

RM Williams

Saddle Dressing Ingredients: Tallow, Neatsfoot Oil, Waxes, Water, Emulsifier, Preservatives.

My version.

Tallow (solid blocks of tallow are sold in the cooking oils section of the supermarket, usually next to the lard.

Beeswax (disolved in gum turpentine)

Macadamia oil (similar to mink oil)

Botanical alternatives to mink oil as a source of palmitoleic acid include macadamia nut oil. Alternatively use neatsfoot oil

Water

Lecithin (to emulsify the oils and water)

Small amount of eucalyptus oil to act as a mould inhibitor (also keeps the vermin at bay)

Jay-el

Beeswax, Special waxes, Oils Tallow, Perfume

Oakwood

Teatree Oil

- Eucalyptus Oil

- Bees Wax

- Lanolin

Some dressings mention using coconut oil. In the course of my experiments. I have found a ready source for coconut oil, well at least in Australia. Every Aussie kid knows what Copha is. I have found that most of the commercial dressings have similar ingredients thanks to MSDS sheets. I keep going back to my version of the RM's. To be honest I can't tell the difference. All ingredients are available at the supermarket except the beeswax.

I have read Keith Seidel's post about how you apply oils and that makes perfect sense to me.

Barra

Edited April 13, 2009 by barra

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Ok, here goes! Keith I agree with you completely. I do it the same way with the same products. Pure Neatsfoot Oil, and Neat Lac hand rubbed in with a piece of sheep skin for new saddles. When I get in old saddles to be redone, I use Laquer thinner to clean off old finish. Then I use pure neatsfoot oil with some olive oil in it ( about 2 tbl spoons of olive oil to a pint of Neatsfoot) I then heat it to a boil and rub it in with a sheep skin, followed by a coat of neat lac. My customers have never been dissatisfied. As for the difference between toluene and xylene, xylene is slightly more aggressive and "quicker" than toluene, toluene is a little more oily to the feel and does not evaporate as quickly. The only draw back I see is that my wife hates the smell of Neat Lac so I have to use it out side!

Of course I am not the difinitive last word on the subject, I am sure there are lots more opinions out there. Bottom line, use what works best for you.

Happy Trails!

Bondo Bob

[Saddlebag]

While we're on the topic, a customer bro't a circle Y show saddle in a light color. The finish had worn in numerous areas which resulted in a patchy darkening of the leather. The saddle looked grubby. Short of stripping the finish and redying the saddle to a darker color can anything else be done to restore the light finish?

[bruce johnson]

I have seen them too. The topcoat on some of the production saddles is a pigmented finish, almost like a light tan spray paint. It makes it easier for them to get consistant coloring. I talked to one guy at a shop who thought it was maybe an LCI product he was using. (He knew exactly what it was, but wasn't going to tell me I'm sure). The problem is when this stuff flakes or wears off and the customer adds a conditioner, the bare areas take it up and the saddle is pretty mealy looking. Short of stripping it off and oiling to whatever works, the customer is stuck with what they have.

[Saddlebag]

Thanks Bruce, I don't like the new finishes but we don't have any say in the matter. I redid the edge of a cantle on an english saddle with that paint type finish. Those finishes sit on top of the leather. It took a bag of tricks but I was finally able to conceal the glaring scrape. I'

ve had people ask me to recondition their show saddles and I won't touch them.

[ntex2000]

Hey Steve,

On saddles that I know are going to be used a little less and kept a little cleaner I do the same as you with the tan kote. If I know the saddle is going straight to work and is going to be covered in dust and dirt most of the time, I don't bother with the Tan Kote... pure neatsfoot oil and a good coating of R.M. Williams.

I find alot of the finishes look nice when put on but wear off unevenly or don't allow oil to penetrate very easily.

Darc

What is R.M. Williams? I've not heard of this product before.

[bruce johnson]

Ntex,

Williams is a soft paste conditioner from Australia. In previous threads we have tried to find a wholesale supplier for the single man shop. No go there that I recall. Most of us buy it from someone who buys in case quantities and retails. I usually get mine from Tip's in Winnemucca, Capriola's in Elko probably have it, got some from Big Bend in Alpine once or twice.

[CWR]

Ntex,

Williams is a soft paste conditioner from Australia. In previous threads we have tried to find a wholesale supplier for the single man shop. No go there that I recall. Most of us buy it from someone who buys in case quantities and retails. I usually get mine from Tip's in Winnemucca, Capriola's in Elko probably have it, got some from Big Bend in Alpine once or twice.

Big Bend is still carrying it.

Bruce you ever get out to Alpine? If you ever do I'll buy you a cup of coffee or something stronger. Sure would like to visit.

CW

Edited January 28, 2010 by CWR