glockanator Report post Posted July 8, 2011 I would like to turn my own slicker but was wondering if the "gaps" need to be a certain size? If so what sizes? Any help would be appericated! Thanks Glockanator Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted July 8, 2011 The gaps need to be whatever size/thickness leather you want to burnish. If you are burnish 4 sewed together layers of 12 oz, you will need big gaps. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted July 8, 2011 So just make them whatever size I "think" I will need? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) So just make them whatever size I "think" I will need? Hey glockanator, check out my leather burnisher website (I have a specialty business turning them for dremels & drill presses) for the sizes: http://www.leatherburnishers.com On the drill press burnisher page the "General Purpose" burnisher lists the most common cove sizes to cover 4oz though double thickness 9oz. Anything above double thickness 9oz. pretty much needs a flat turned on the slicker as most folks wouldn't completely round the edge of the leather that thick, there will be somewhat of a flat section in the middle of the edge. If you have the ability to turn them yourself, use one of the rosewoods (cocobolo, honduran rosewood, tulipwood, kingwood, etc) that you have access to. They'll burnish better than any domestic wood and last longer. Chris Edited July 8, 2011 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glockanator Report post Posted July 8, 2011 ^ thanks! I have a wood lathe and was going to turn one similar to the Tandy one. Thanks again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BearMan Report post Posted July 10, 2011 Hi Glockanator, Several years ago I started making slickers of a somewhat similar design. I do use specific size grooves. I also incourperated a couple recessed areas with a different radius. There are two different shaped points, for things like belt holes, & slots. I use only Cocobolo, as it will last almost forever,, & it also imparts some darker oils with friction. That's the reason why the only finish should be oil & wax. If you have any questions, just contact me on here or email me at: polarb1717@aol.com Ed the"BearMan" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raquel Report post Posted July 20, 2012 Hi Glockanator, Several years ago I started making slickers of a somewhat similar design. I do use specific size grooves. I also incourperated a couple recessed areas with a different radius. There are two different shaped points, for things like belt holes, & slots. I use only Cocobolo, as it will last almost forever,, & it also imparts some darker oils with friction. That's the reason why the only finish should be oil & wax. If you have any questions, just contact me on here or email me at: polarb1717@aol.com Ed the"BearMan" Bearman, do you still make this slicker? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jors Report post Posted July 21, 2012 Glockanator, Make a screen-grab of the picture of the slicker and post it in Microsoft Office (or other word processor) and re-size the picture so that it is 6 inches (150mm) long and 1 inch (25 mm) wide. Use the ruler of the program to check for size. Then print it real size. You will then see the sizes of the grooves.If your homemade one's grooves is slightly different in size, it will not matter. The slicker will still work. I have made mine on a metal lathe as I do not have a wood turning lathe. I have set my angle on 5 degrees off-set when I turned the taper. Worked like a charm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shtoink Report post Posted July 21, 2012 Don't forget about the possibility of an allergic reaction from the cocabolo. Not everyone is allergic and it can vary in degree of severity. It's something to do with the oils in the wood, so just keep that in mind until you know exactly where your sensitivity to cocabolo lies. A good friend of mine is extremely allergic and found out the hard way while trying to make a bowl from cocabolo. His hands looked like hundreds of bees had stung them just from the chips coming into contact with them. Luckily he was wearing a respirator. If it did that to his hands, imagine what the fine dust would do to his lungs. As for me, I have no issues whatsoever. I actually find the smell of cocabolo being turned or cut very pleasant. Almost cinnamon smell. Also, some other very nice woods to make a slicker from would be snake wood and lignum vitae. I know there are many others that could work, but those are just two of my favorites that have yet to be mentioned. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 21, 2012 I recently had a pool cue maker turn a piece for me out of Ipe. He turned a couple of coves for me (at my direction), and sure enough, the first project I tried to use it on I needed a slightly larger size. I chucked it up an used a half round file to add the next size 'cove'....which needed to be pretty large for 3 layers of 8oz. And like Chris said, most things of that thickness (or more) won't be completely rounded. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullmoosepaddles Report post Posted June 5, 2015 This is a good start to understanding the toxicity and potential for reactions to different woods. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites