Removing Impressions

[Warpe]

Trying a search didnt pay off, so here goes:

Is there a way to remove impressions, marks, indents in tooling leather? I am having trouble getting my machine dialed in for the amount of pressure it puts on the leather and i am ending up with the dreaded foot imprints.

Any advice, expertise or a direction to a thread would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Warpe

[Ferg]

I have struggled with this problem ever since buying my Consew. You must use smooth bottom feet. I also use a narrow slot smooth needle plate. There is a "sweet spot" to get the leather to move properly as the feet walk and imprint into the leather as little as possible. Factory dyed chrome tanned leather seems to resist the impressions better than veg tan. I normally do not finish the veg tanned leather before I sew. My main reason for this, it is easier to smooth the impressions with a modeling tool. I usually use a large one for this but I don't think that matters much. Rub as lightly as you can and still remove the impressions. The leather has a tendency to get a little shiny when you "burnish" with the modeling tool. Finishing last helps cover that problem. One other note: When burnishing the edges of a piece it seems likely you will get some residue on the back side of your leather if it is being backed with another layer of leather. The Oxalic acid solution will wash those marks off. You can allow the piece to dry thoroughly and then do your finishing.

Hope this helps a little.

ferg

Trying a search didnt pay off, so here goes:

Is there a way to remove impressions, marks, indents in tooling leather? I am having trouble getting my machine dialed in for the amount of pressure it puts on the leather and i am ending up with the dreaded foot imprints.

Any advice, expertise or a direction to a thread would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Warpe

[swivelsphinx]

I do all my stamping by hand. Sometimes I rotate a pictoral stamp incorrectly, and I prefer to re-do rather than have a badly placed marking. On veg tan, I flood the area with water/casing solution. I use "Bee Natural" which i get from Weaver leather. Once the stamped area is wetted down, I wait until it is about 1/2 dry, and start rupping the area with bone and/or wood tools. I will sometimes bend the stamped area over a hard but curved surface similar to a fleshing beam or a banister- it helps "pop" the area out so I can rub out the impression or deep scratch. I find this method works for areas I'm going to *restamp* best on 6oz and higher weights. I've even "erased" markings on hand dyed pieces that sat on the shelf for a long time! I had to flood the back, and re-finish, but you can't see the old impression at all. I've used this method to get rid of edge marks and scratches I've made with my nails when they've been very long (nearly 2 inches of acrylic glory) for upcoming special occasions. On lower weight leathers, the new impression may not take because the fibers may get to compacted by the rubbing.

I have struggled with this problem ever since buying my Consew. You must use smooth bottom feet. I also use a narrow slot smooth needle plate. There is a "sweet spot" to get the leather to move properly as the feet walk and imprint into the leather as little as possible. Factory dyed chrome tanned leather seems to resist the impressions better than veg tan. I normally do not finish the veg tanned leather before I sew. My main reason for this, it is easier to smooth the impressions with a modeling tool. I usually use a large one for this but I don't think that matters much. Rub as lightly as you can and still remove the impressions. The leather has a tendency to get a little shiny when you "burnish" with the modeling tool. Finishing last helps cover that problem. One other note: When burnishing the edges of a piece it seems likely you will get some residue on the back side of your leather if it is being backed with another layer of leather. The Oxalic acid solution will wash those marks off. You can allow the piece to dry thoroughly and then do your finishing.

Hope this helps a little.

ferg

[particle]

Try wetting the leather with a sponge, then immediately rub over the area with a bone folder. Don't wait for the leather to be properly cased, as this will result in burnishing too quickly, which I assume you want to avoid (burnishing). If that doesn't work, dampen the leather with a sponge and tap it with a smooth faced hammer along the track lines.

[Warpe]

Try wetting the leather with a sponge, then immediately rub over the area with a bone folder. Don't wait for the leather to be properly cased, as this will result in burnishing too quickly, which I assume you want to avoid (burnishing). If that doesn't work, dampen the leather with a sponge and tap it with a smooth faced hammer along the track lines.

Never thought of the hammer......the most universal tool out there. I will have to try that the next time i get tracks.

Thanks.

[McJeep]

I've used a light hammer on occasion as well, but I also use a scrap of 12 oz underneath (underneath the hammer on top of the leather I'm repairing) it to ensure that I don't replace the feet marks with hammer marks ;0) It works not bad for blending things in and doesn't burnish. I try to keep it away from any tooling of course.