Compounds For Stropping And Buffing

[cdf]

In a pinch mechanics handcleaner works as a fine finishing product . Corse grained linen + chalk is used by some straight razor owners . Diamond paste on MDF offcuts can make a very fine hone , of any dimension you choose .

Heavy felt , and old canvas firehose take up abrasives really well .

Chris

[Pelallito]

I ran across this site following a sharpening discussion -http://www.chefknivestogo.com/handamerican.html

I am going to try some of their products as soon as I can order.

Regards,

Fred

[Leela Valley Leather]

For the truly obsessive in having a sharp blade (those who have/do restore or own straight razors, myself included) a diamond lapping paste (best used on a backed strop) is the ultimate, just pick the micron grade.

http://www.diamondtool.com/dialapng.html

Note: 5000 grit has particles approximately 5 micron in size

[asitcomestome]

I also get my polishing compound from Princess Auto here in Canada and I love working with it.

The brand is 'Enkay' and they claim to be out of Brooklyn N.Y.

I rub some on like a crayon onto a couple 2" x 12" pieces of MDF and add a few drops of mineral oil. It makes a great slurry and you can easily see where the edge is making contact.

I use the coarsest available (Black emery) then finish with what's called 'White Diamond' for my honing. On the packages scale of coarseness the Black is coarser than Brown Tripoli and the White Diamond is just finer than the Tripoli.

Also to sharpen concave gouging tools like stiching groovers I will load an appropriately sized piece of fiberous twine with polishing compound and run it through the cutting hole.

[Fowlingpiece]

Simichrome

[Ongo]

Thank you Knipper, a solution at last.

I have been using grinding paste on my strop for some time. A few years ago I bought jewelers rouge but because it failed, I assumed I had purchased the wrong sort. Just last week I received some from the Tandy agent in Cape Town and so far I am very disappointed. Now I know why. I find I get the best results by first honing the blade and then a final honing on a small Arkansas stone. I have a strop with grinding paste which gives fair results, but I find the oiled Arkansas stone gives me the edge I am looking for. I will look into the availability of the compounds that you mention.

Thank you for clearing that problem.

Malcolm

[Knipper]

Update! Since first writing this, I have found an even more aggressive compound that works even better. Its available from Brownell's (the gunsmith supply people), and is called their "555 Black" polishing compound. Not only does this really help re-establish an edge, but it also leaves a nice mirror finish on the blade. Its more aggressive than the green compounds by far, but I've found that after using this, I don't have to do anything further. This rubs in well on a leather strop, particularly if the strop is latigo. On harder, drier leather, an oil of some sort (neatsfoot works) applied before you rub it in will help keep the compound from flaking off. The finer the finish on the leather, the more it tends to do that, so roughing up the surface of the leather will help. One doesn't have to completely cover the leather with layers of compound. Every inch doesn't have to be coated. This stuff also works very well on a buffing wheel too. If you use only one compound, this would be my recommendation!

Terry

[J Hayes]

So anybody use Flitz?

Jeremy

[terrymac]

Terry, if you are out there, I have a couple of questions for you. I am fixing to order some "555" from Brownells. What side of the leather are you applying, and given its color, how do you know when to recharge your strop? I know with the stuff I am currently using turns totally black ,it is time for more. Thanks for the help, Terry

[Birdman]

I use a leather covered wood block----flesh side up---that has had some automotive valve grinding paste worked into it. You mix coarse and fine paste about 50/50 and work it into the leather with some light mineral oil.

Every now and then add a few drops more oil, and even less often work some more paste in as well.

After buffing the blade, clean and polish off using the flesh side of suitably sized piece of leather (flat on bench!) kept for the purpose.

A half teasppon of each scrounged from a car repair shop will last you for most of your saddlery lifetime.

Cheap and cheerful and works as well as fancy compounds in a smart tin!

Edited January 30, 2014 by Birdman