Took A Chance And Bought A Used Consew 206Rb

[Daniel G]

Hello everyone.

Just a brief introduction. my name is Daniel, I'm an aspiring boxing glove and equipment designer.

I'm new to sewing and as the thread title says, I took a chance and bought a Consew 206RB, table and clutch motor included, on Craigslist for $180.00. The guy I bought it from had his house past down to him and he was selling everything that was included with the home that he did not need. He didn't know anything about the machine, so it was a case of the blind, selling to the blind. I did turn it on to make sure the motor and parts were running. I just hit the foot pedal a few times, because I wasn't sure when the last time the machine was oiled. Everything seemed to be running smooth(crossing fingers).

I would like to know if anyone knows a reputable person in the NYC area to service the machine?

What should I expect to pay for someone to service the machine(ballpark figure)?

Anyone in the New York area the would be willing to show me the ins and out of sewing with leather? I would pay for your time of course.

My machine didn't have a knee lift. Is that something I can add on, and is it a worthy investment?

Pics of the machine. They were taken with my phone, so it's not the best quality. The table and motor are in my basement, so I didn't snap pic of them.

Edited August 21, 2011 by Daniel G

[amuckart]

I can't help with hints on where to get it serviced, but these are good machines. Yours is certainly in excellent cosmetic condition by the looks of things. Did it come with a manual and parts list? If not, get a manual for it and try to find a parts list. It really does help to be familiar with what goes where. At the very least, you will need to understand how to oil the machine and how to clean it.

The first thing you should do is go and read Wiz' thread on the type of machine you need to sew leather then read up on the technical specifications of this particular machine to get a feel for what it will and won't do. Every machine has it's upper and lower limits of what it will sew, and every feed mechanism has its advantages and disadvantages, none absolutely better than any other, but all designed for different applications.

In case you haven't got that information already, these use a system 135x17 needle for textiles or 135x16 for leather. Have a read of this PDF from Groz-Beckert describing the different point types for sewing leather Schmetz have recently redone their website and have a lot of useful information there too. Look at http://schmetz.com/en/products/industrial-sewing/leather/special-features/ for info about point types for leather and textile, and at http://schmetz.com/en/products/industrial-sewing/leather/product-range/for the available system/point-type/size combinations available. It's very useful to understand the point types and codes, which are different between manufacturers but Groz-Beckert and Schmetz are the two major manufacturers of high-quality needles.

Absolutely get a knee or foot lift, they are invaluable. I've got long legs that don't fit too well under a K-frame stand, so I prefer a foot pedal lift that pulls a chain that is attached to the end of the lifter bar on the back of the machine, but if you don't have long legs knee lifts are good too.

A 206 like yours will sew leather, but it almost certainly isn't set up for it 'out of the box' these are really upholstery machines, designed to sew at quite high speed - 1500-3000 stitches/min, which is quite literally 10 times faster than the absolute max speed you want to run this thing at for short runs of anything more than 3-4 layers of upholstery leather under the foot. You can often get a good idea of the speed a machine is designed to run at by looking at the size of the wheel on the end of the head. Smaller = higher speed, bigger = lower speed. Really heavy stitchers have gigantic wheels on them.

So, you've got a decent brand and model of machine, but to sew leather there are a couple of things you'll probably want to do. At the very least, get a servo motor and speed reducer to slow the machine down, then find somewhere to get smooth feet for sewing leather and a smooth needle plate (the half-round plate under the foot). One way to run these machines is by taking the feed dog out and replacing the needle plate with one that just has a narrow slot in it, but you can also try and find a smooth feed dog. You may need to adapt existing parts, or have a machinist make up a needle plate for you. Toothed feed dogs and feet will mark up the leather you're sewing.

You will also eventually find things that can't be sewn on a flat-bed machine, which is when you'll start looking at post bed or cylinder arm machines, or both. Then you will start trying to figure out ways to either stack them, or build a tardis to keep them in

[Daniel G]

Thank you for taking the time to reply amuckart. You rock!

The machine did not come with a manual or a parts list. I was able to download the parts list, but only able to find the manual for the Consew 206RB-5. I'll be reading over both tonight.

I'm familiar with Wiz' machine list and youtube videos. I used his post to make a short list of machines to buy.

Thanks for the links to the needles, I'll download the info and go over it as well.

So that's a servo motor, and speed reducer, kneelift, smooth feet and smooth needle plate. Geez you're costing me quite a few bucks here amuckart, let's not jump the gun with talk of more machines.

Seriously. Thanks for the recommendations. I'll be sure to add them to my machine as necessary.

[Mokosh]

HI Daniel I have the Consew 226R ( a very similar machine) and I think I paid about $80-100 to have a guy do a house call for servicing. Which I thought was pretty awesome. I'm not sure what you could expect to pay in NY, but with the garment district being in NYC you might be able to find a comparable deal.

I like these machines but here's the thing - they are stoooopid FAST! Honestly I wouldn't recommend them as a first leather sewing machine. I've been sewing since I was 12 and it took me quite a while to learn how to control it. Another forum member mentioned that you can get a servo motor which will allow you more speed control, I haven't done this yet but you may want to consider it. I can't imagine sewing something as detail oriented as a boxing glove on that machine as is. Like others have mentioned, it was intended as an upholstery machine and so it is amazing at sewing long straight seams really quickly - not so fabulous for lots of curves or delicate work.

[amuckart]

I like these machines but here's the thing - they are stoooopid FAST! Honestly I wouldn't recommend them as a first leather sewing machine. I've been sewing since I was 12 and it took me quite a while to learn how to control it. Another forum member mentioned that you can get a servo motor which will allow you more speed control, I haven't done this yet but you may want to consider it. I can't imagine sewing something as detail oriented as a boxing glove on that machine as is. Like others have mentioned, it was intended as an upholstery machine and so it is amazing at sewing long straight seams really quickly - not so fabulous for lots of curves or delicate work.

This is all down to the motor, which is really a separate part. The machine itself will operate at as low a speed as you want to drive it. Upholsterers set them up with fast motors to work fast for long runs, but they'll work well driven slowly by a servo and/or speed reducer too. What you do need to make sure of when driving them at low speed is that there is enough friction in the drive belt to transmit the torque to the motor. Without the inertia of the motor and machine operating at speed you can lose punching power if the belt slips.

[Wizcrafts]

I don't like speed reducers on walking foot machines. Here's why:

With a speed reducer, the top speed of whatever motor and pulley you have is reduced by a factor of 3:1. A motor with a 2" pulley, feeding a machine with a 4" pulley already has 2:1 reduction. Thus, a 1725 RPM motor will sping the machine no faster than ~862 RPM /SPM A person with a steady foot can easily feather the clutch down to less than 2 stitches per second, or 120 RPM. Then, they can speed up, to over 800 on straight-aways.

Insert a 3:1 speed reducer into that equation and the top speed drops from 862, to 267 SPM, or 4.45 per second. This is okay for hard leather and short. detailed stitching, but not very good when the work is against an edge guide and is being sewn around the perimeter of a 4 or 5 foot long. or longer strap. I like to get stuff done the same day, so, 10 stitches per second, or 600 per minute, is my preferred speed on straight-aways.

My solution was to purchase a servo motor that has built-in 3:1 reduction, for triple the power, which has a top speed of 1500 RPM at the pulley. I use a 50 MM/2" pulley at the motor and the machine pulley is 4 inches. This motor gives me awesome slow speed control, under 1 stitch every 3 or 4 seconds, up to 750 SPM, or 12 stitches per second. This rtange allows for highly detailed stitching and controlled turns at belt tips, with fast, get er done speed on the straight-aways.

Needless to say, my needles smoke at these speeds. This helps melt the bonding on the thread, which then solidifies in moments, permanently locking each stitch.

The motor I am referring to is made on Mars, by a terrestrial company calling themselves SewPro. The motor is a SewPro 500GR. It is available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (866-362-7397). With one of these motors, you can sew like a Pro! Gotta love those Martian engineers!

Now, where did I put my can of MGD?

[Daniel G]

Once again I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to reply.

First of all sewmum pm'd me the name and number of someone in my area to service the machine. My budget is kinda tight right now, so I'll have to wait another week to get it looked at. I also found someone who offers leathercraft lessons in my area. I plan on taking some lesson when he gets back from vacation. Hopefully he knows someone who knows how to sew with leather.

Mokosh, I was just on your site and I have to say I love your work. From what I saw when testing the machine, it was craaaazy fast! I will definitely be setting it up to sew at slower speeds.

amukart and Wizcraft, thank you for the info on the motor options. I think I will be going with Wizcrafts suggestion and order a SewPro 500GR.

Edited September 1, 2011 by Daniel G

[Jimbob]

Ur rig looks very clean and in nice shape.....I think you did well money wise....if you do the right thing and listen to certain knowledgable folks here you will be sewing leather in not time....also this is no machine for heavy leather.

And you will be singing praises and thank the goods of leather sewing machinery that you gotten yourself a sewpro motor as Wiz said....got my two ones ( Adler 105-64 ) and ( Singer 211-155 ) and I absolutly love them too...me .still singing...hehehe....and yes I got mine also from "Toledo Bob"!!

have fun and dive right in, take a manual ( download or order one ) and give it a good try...bet ya you wont need no service man to make her hummm....

Good luck

Greetings

Jimbob

[JimC]

Daniel, That's a great machine. ...maybe not for what you are thinking of, but a workhorse in the canvas and upholstery trade. If it does not sew the minute you set it up - carry the head to someone like NY Sewing machine who have moved from W. 25th to N. Bergen (great folks ..a little 'New York' initially for us former midwesterners, but hearts of gold) .. or simply ask around in the garment district. It is an easily adjusted machine that does not need to be baby'ed. We run two, a long-arm just like yours and a newer version that is run every day.

.... and in some respects, I would suggest you take another tack. It takes a long time to develop sewing skills; if you are primarily a designer, then you are making it doubly difficult to achieve your goal. I would think it better to find a lady who sews. There are tons of skilled crafters that can make anything from doll clothes for their grand kids to slip covers, drapes, etc. for other people. A person with a wide range of sewing exposure could probably help you 10X as fast as learning all this yourself. I do all our product design .. I have also been sewing for 40yrs .. But, I am smart enough to hire just those sorts of ladies to do my production. I also am lucky to be in an area that had many sewing factories, so they also know what it means to get stuff out the door...

Jim

[BobbyV]

I too have the same machine and was wanting to start utilizing it for my leather projects as well. What is the heaviest thread you can run in a 206rb? Where is it purchased and can you buy Pre-wound bobbins in the same thread?

Thanks,

Bobby

[Andrew Chee]

207. You can buy threads from most of the dealers on this board. And there aren't really pre-wound bobbins. Just wind them yourself.

Andrew

[BobbyV]

Thanks Andrew.

-Bobby