Question On Shuttles, Adler 205 Vs 441 Clones

[Uwe]

That's kind of a diplomatic answer they gave you. Did they say if THEIR clone version of the 441 shuttle will work in an Adler 205?

[llucas]

That I did not ask, but good question.

[Wizcrafts]

There's still the issue of the spacer shims that are used in Adler shuttles. Did Weaver mention that?

[llucas]

There's still the issue of the spacer shims that are used in Adler shuttles. Did Weaver mention that?

No, Weaver did not mention this. I did have to use the spacers when I reinstalled the shuttle/cam shaft for end play, and this was with the stock Adler shuttle. Trail and error until the right combination was achieved. The thinest shim did it for my Beast. To be such a good machine it seems they could have engineered a better solution than shims. But it works.

Edited February 19, 2016 by llucas

[Uwe]

I thought the shims are used to fine-tune proper hook-to-needle distance. Once it's set is should never change, really (unless you take things apart).

Edited February 19, 2016 by Uwe

[llucas]

I am wondering if I am using the wrong terminology to describe the numbered spacers that coincide with needle size and the circular thin shims that go on the shuttle retention ring/hub (that locks the shuttle and spring loaded back plate in operating condition via two outside screws). Are the numbered needle guard spacers actually called shims, and the thin circular rings for adjusting the distance between the needle scarf and bobbin hook called spacers and not shims?

I ran into an anomaly when I was reinstalling the shuttle (and feed dog carrier) cam/shaft. Apparently under normal installation the cam is inserted into the bushing and pushed all the way in until it stops against the shoulder of the bushing housing. That is supposed to be a fixed factory position that governs the end play. I was told that this is then secured with the small screwed hub directly behind the housing up against the backside of the bushing housing, and with the larger split ring where the cam shaft inserts over the tapered shaft. Problem: this placed the final shuttle position into conflict so the shuttle hook stabbed about half way in on the needle shaft. A quick call to Allen at Weaver and I learned on rare occasions the cam will need to be moved out a tiny amount away from the forged bushing housing and then re-secured with the small hub (with two small screws) that shoulders up against the cam/shuttle housing on the back side and with the split hub that holds the cam shaft and the tapered shaft together. The gap between the shuttle hook and needle scarf then had to be fine tuned with the flat circular shim (spacer?) while it was in the timing position.

Not sure I described the process well. I have been trying to use the correct terminology for the various parts, but it is entirely possible I got the part descriptors wrong. I am finding there is a steep learning curve with this machine and its hundreds of pieces.

Edited February 19, 2016 by llucas

[Uwe]

I got confused, too, earlier this morning. In Adler 205 speak, the "spacers" are the little black parts that set the needle guard distance to match the needle size.

Your learning curve is steep because you're taking things apart that I haven't even touched yet in the year that I've owned my 205.

I'm just not sure how the ring-like shims would affect the success or failure of an aftermarket shuttle other than allowing the fine tuning of hook-to-needle distance. If the shuttle is within specs of the original it should work. If the aftermarket shuttle it's out of spec or just plain wrong, I doubt changing the shims will fix the problem.

[llucas]

I am hoping I will never need to figure that one out. So far my bobbin shuttle is fine. It had a little burr on the hook that I discovered as I was dragging a finger nail along all the edges, but that sanded out and polished up with microfine sandpaper. Good as new and no more occasional frayed thread on the top stitch. But, if I drop it and break it (heaven forbid!) it is nice to know a less expensive option to the Adler part exists.

[shoepatcher]

llucas,

I talked to Allen at weaver. We believe you can use both the441 hook and bobbin in a 205. However, you can't use a 205 hook or bobbin in a 441 or 441 clone. Hope that helps. By the way, Bob Kovar carries a clone hook for a 205 I believe.

glenn

[llucas]

Glenn, thanks very much for the clarification. OEM Adler parts are very pricey, even at wholesale. Great help on this forum.