Exotic Inlays?

[Guy W]

so i'm working on my first iwb pancake hoslter and ofcourse i'm already looking ahead to the next one. i was wondering what i need to do to put an exotic skin inlay in the front of the holster? something like rattlesnake or ostrich leg?

I would think you'd make your back out of the normal 8oz tooling leather and then the front of the holster would another pancake with the front most piece having a window cut out and the exotic skin glued and sitched in between? is that correct and if so should i use 2 layers of like 4oz leather to form the front or just use 2 layers of the normal 8oz (seems like the whole thing would be pretty thick then?

thanks for the tips appreciate it!

[Shooter McGavin]

I posted a very similar thread not too long ago for a caimen tail holster I was building. I'm too lazy to search it but it shouldnt be more than a month or so old.

The biggest challenge for me was stitching the exotic in between the 2 top layers of leather, and not running into the stitch line I planned to use to sew the front panel(s) to the back panel. Takes some planning to get it right. I did not get it right, but it still came out OK.

[Guy W]

hey thanks shooter, i found the thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33263&st=0&p=206623&hl=caimen&fromsearch=1entry206623 if anyone else wants to read it over. your holster turned out really nice. that's pretty much what i was thinking about but i was thinking a snake or ostrich stink for the inlay. once i decide to tackle that project i suspect questions will be abound.

[marine mp]

Guy, Once you cut out the "window" for the inlay...trim about 1/8th inch off of the perimeter of that cut out piece and glue it under (samdwich it) the "exotic" piece. That way it will ......for lack of a better word...."puff up" the exotic" and make it even with the top piece of leather and not below the surface of it. Semper-fi Mike

[Shooter McGavin]

^^I'm going to give that a try next time myself.

[katsass]

Guy, Once you cut out the "window" for the inlay...trim about 1/8th inch off of the perimeter of that cut out piece and glue it under (samdwich it) the "exotic" piece. That way it will ......for lack of a better word...."puff up" the exotic" and make it even with the top piece of leather and not below the surface of it. Semper-fi Mike

FWIW: from the grumpy old guy ...... you can use some 'batting' and (although is a bit of a job) give something like snake skin a bit of contour. Mostly for something like a BBQ rig ....probably not too good for a working holster. Mike

P.S. This is a 'range' or 'transport' holster ...no belt loop ... and the first padded inlay for me.

[KAYAK45]

Another thing you ..could do..is to "cut out" your outside leather pattern using your sewing machine and a broken off needle. (like perferation). put on your skin and reapply the cutout for a perfect fit. This will puff out you exotic nicely.

[Lobo]

Three thoughts come to mind:

1. Anything that adds bulk to an IWB-style holster is an exercise in defeating the purpose of IWB-carry.

2. Decoration of a holster that will be carried inside the trousers (with the decoration hidden) makes little sense to me.

3. The exotic inlay will be constantly exposed to friction and perspiration, thus likely to be damaged during normal use of an IWB-style holster.

My 3 cents worth, I guess.

[Guy W]

Three thoughts come to mind:

1. Anything that adds bulk to an IWB-style holster is an exercise in defeating the purpose of IWB-carry.

2. Decoration of a holster that will be carried inside the trousers (with the decoration hidden) makes little sense to me.

3. The exotic inlay will be constantly exposed to friction and perspiration, thus likely to be damaged during normal use of an IWB-style holster.

My 3 cents worth, I guess.

i should have probably noted in my first post that i'm working on an iwb holster now, but for something with an inlay or decoration i would build it to be worn outside the waistband. i agree with all your points.

[katsass]

i should have probably noted in my first post that i'm working on an iwb holster now, but for something with an inlay or decoration i would build it to be worn outside the waistband. i agree with all your points.

OK Guy, in response to you initial question and this response. I make all of my inlaid holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned. Actually, that's the way I do almost all of my holsters ... inlaid or not. It (IMO) gives me a lined holster, and also a much more firm and rigid finished piece because of the two layers of grain, which is where the rigidity is created after molding and proper drying. When making your pattern, draw the inlay 'window' on the actual cutting pattern ...don't try to make a separate one and align it with the actual body of the cut out holster .It never will align properly. Realize that you will need to stitch the entire perimeter of the holster to finish it. Cut your 'window' and bevel, then burnish the interior edge. Dye the whole top piece prior to assembly. (You'll not get a decent dye job if you try it after putting it together) Smooth leather like snake, lizard, ostrich shin work well for inlay. Hornback 'gator, and stingray must be sanded down around the perimeter of the inlay piece prior to assembly to get a smooth edge to stitch down. Dry fit the two layers and mark the 'window' on the flesh side of the interior piece. Glue the inlay piece in place and glue the the outer shell to the inner and stitch around your inlay. Finish off as you would normally. Hope this helps a bit, it may not be as others do ... but it works for me. Here's one of mine Mike

[K-Man]

Guy W: Check your pm's.

[SooperJake]

OK Guy, in response to you initial question and this response. I make all of my inlaid holsters from two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned. Actually, that's the way I do almost all of my holsters ... inlaid or not. It (IMO) gives me a lined holster, and also a much more firm and rigid finished piece because of the two layers of grain, which is where the rigidity is created after molding and proper drying. When making your pattern, draw the inlay 'window' on the actual cutting pattern ...don't try to make a separate one and align it with the actual body of the cut out holster .It never will align properly. Realize that you will need to stitch the entire perimeter of the holster to finish it. Cut your 'window' and bevel, then burnish the interior edge. Dye the whole top piece prior to assembly. (You'll not get a decent dye job if you try it after putting it together) Smooth leather like snake, lizard, ostrich shin work well for inlay. Hornback 'gator, and stingray must be sanded down around the perimeter of the inlay piece prior to assembly to get a smooth edge to stitch down. Dry fit the two layers and mark the 'window' on the flesh side of the interior piece. Glue the inlay piece in place and glue the the outer shell to the inner and stitch around your inlay. Finish off as you would normally. Hope this helps a bit, it may not be as others do ... but it works for me. Here's one of mine Mike

Mike, what is the perimeter dye color on this rig, if you please?

[IngleGunLeather]

Guy, Once you cut out the "window" for the inlay...trim about 1/8th inch off of the perimeter of that cut out piece and glue it under (samdwich it) the "exotic" piece. That way it will ......for lack of a better word...."puff up" the exotic" and make it even with the top piece of leather and not below the surface of it. Semper-fi Mike

I have nothing to add here, just wanted to say Happy Belated Birthday Marine. Semper Fi.

[mmirob]

Here is a different slant on inlay overlay. This is a simple star pattern both done in shark. Skived, stitched, then glued to veg tan.

Makes for an interesting functional art. The art of inlay overlay is limitless. Some have made it their profession. See Randy and Claudia for some out of this world talent. In the mean time enjoy my meagar little star!

Edited November 24, 2012 by mmirob