Problems Using Fiebings Black Oil Dye Over Blue

[OdinUK]

Following the instruction in a number of books, I tried dying leather royal blue (Fiebings oil dye) before using black Fiebings oil dyes to obtain a more opaque black. However, the leather just looks like very dark blue. Has anyone had any success with this method of getting a very 'black' black? Thank youl.

[katsass]

Following the instruction in a number of books, I tried dying leather royal blue (Fiebings oil dye) before using black Fiebings oil dyes to obtain a more opaque black. However, the leather just looks like very dark blue. Has anyone had any success with this method of getting a very 'black' black? Thank youl.

For what you are looking for I have used a single application of blue, then multiple coats of black pretty satisfactorily. I use an airbrush for uniform application. Actually, the best (IMO) black is from homemade vinegaroon. It's not a dye per se, but a dilute chemical (ferrous or ferric acetate I believe) liquid, that reacts chemically with tannins within the leather. It turns the leather dead black throughout the entire thickness of the hide. Search 'vinegaroon' on this forum. Mike

[Spinner]

I do this fairly regularly on my motorcycle gear (until I get a batch of 'roon made up) and one thing that I found that helps greatly is to let the blue dry completely before applying the black. If the blue is not dry then the two colors tend to blend versus the black going over the blue and as you found simply make dark blue. Let it sit for 24 hours and then hit it with 2-3 coats of black (letting dry in between) and it should darken much easier. The oil dyes take 2-3 times longer to dry than water or spirit based dyes not considering humidity.

Chris

[OdinUK]

Thanks for the advice. I dyed the leather blue till it was deep blue, not a light coat, maybe thats where I went wrong.

This vinegarroon, is it Iron Sulfate? Iron Sulphate in solution makes the leather go black.. I have some but I have not used it yet.

Ill try both methods. I have been meaning to make the Iron Sulphate solution for some time.

Thanks!

[katsass]

Thanks for the advice. I dyed the leather blue till it was deep blue, not a light coat, maybe thats where I went wrong.

This vinegarroon, is it Iron Sulfate? Iron Sulphate in solution makes the leather go black.. I have some but I have not used it yet.

Ill try both methods. I have been meaning to make the Iron Sulphate solution for some time.

Thanks!

No, it's made from vinegar (acetic acid) in which iron or steel is allowed to decompose .... or dissolve. I use distilled vinegar (white vinegar) and steel wool pads which I have burned with a propane torch to remove any oils present. Iron sulfate is different. This is iron acetate .... if I remember my chemistry from so damned long ago. Again, search vinegaroon on this forum .... there are some 'chemists' that explain more fully here. Mike

Edited September 30, 2011 by katsass

[Spinner]

Thanks for the advice. I dyed the leather blue till it was deep blue, not a light coat, maybe thats where I went wrong.

This vinegarroon, is it Iron Sulfate? Iron Sulphate in solution makes the leather go black.. I have some but I have not used it yet.

Ill try both methods. I have been meaning to make the Iron Sulphate solution for some time.

Thanks!

Actually, Iron (Ferrous) Sulphate is the commercial version called a "Striker" used in tanneries to do the same thing. According to a thread over at LeatherChemists.org, copper sulphate, ferric chloride and titanium potasium oxalate are also used to produce shades of brown.

Edited September 30, 2011 by Spinner

[OdinUK]

Thanks for the useful info. I didnt know copper sulphate was used, thats pretty poisionous! As are the other chemicals. Interesting stuff.

Edited September 30, 2011 by OdinUK

[Luke Hatley]

Odin,,,,I use Fiebings Black Oil Dye and i see no need for dying the Leather with Blue before using the Black Oil Dye.

[Sixer]

Odin,,,,I use Fiebings Black Oil Dye and i see no need for dying the Leather with Blue before using the Black Oil Dye.

Same here. I use Fiebing's Pro Oil in Black more that any other dye... never found a need for a coat of blue before the black.

[busted]

Following the instruction in a number of books, I tried dying leather royal blue (Fiebings oil dye) before using black Fiebings oil dyes to obtain a more opaque black. However, the leather just looks like very dark blue. Has anyone had any success with this method of getting a very 'black' black? Thank youl.

There is no need to dye with the blue if you want black, black. Use Fiebings USMC black. You will then have black, black.

[jrny4wrd]

I do this fairly regularly on my motorcycle gear (until I get a batch of 'roon made up) and one thing that I found that helps greatly is to let the blue dry completely before applying the black. If the blue is not dry then the two colors tend to blend versus the black going over the blue and as you found simply make dark blue. Let it sit for 24 hours and then hit it with 2-3 coats of black (letting dry in between) and it should darken much easier. The oil dyes take 2-3 times longer to dry than water or spirit based dyes not considering humidity.

Chris

You use room on motorcycle gear? Any worries about it harming the bike? I ask because someone wants a solid black tooled seat. I have the leather but considering getting a drum dyed from w&c to avoid the complications black gives on a project such as a seat. Its a badlander seat.

[HenriqueNarciso]

Hi all!

I seem to have a similar problem. Did a black aniline powder mix with hot water first and then added more cold water in order to immerse the leather.

The result was a dark blue as stated above.

Do you think the mix was too watery? What steps can i take to make it black black? Can I do a vinagroon dip with the leather as is and kinda forget the first de process? or should I do more 2 dyes as recommended above?

Thank you!

[thunter9]

stumbled here I was taught use chocolate as a base

[dekjas]

Hi everyone!

this is my first post to this forum but I've been following it for a while.

it seems an appropriate thread to add a question. I got some (well, quite a few) leather scraps I thought I could use to make leather bags. They are white, varnished on top side (though I plan to put the under side as out). When I painted it with Fiebings black dye, even after a few applications, it keeps a metallic bluish tinge/hue. I've noticed this also before with other projects. It stays even after applying Resolene or Leather Sheen. 

Would anyone have an idea how to get arid if that? 

Oh, I did try the vinegaroon that I've made for the first time just for this project and it doesn't react. It works perfectly on veg tans I tested it on though, so the roon is good. I'm currently soaking one piece of the white leather in tea. I was thinking, Maybe if I manage to get some tannin into the leather, it will react... At least a bit.

I'd still appreciate any opinion or idea.

all best!!

 

ps. This is one test piece that I've made from that leather. Not sure if the blue tinge is visible.

 

Edited May 3, 2016 by dekjas