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Posted

I find contact paper to be very effective and you can cover a large area very quickly.

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Posted

I've been using masking tape. I just overlap it a bit and pull it off in one go. It doesn't stick to the flesh side very well, so it comes off easily and doesn't pull up the fuzzies. It is also the cheapest tape I could find. B)

Storing your leather flat will keep the leather from wanting to roll as well. I don't have much space to store whole sides, so I cut my patterns out straight away (the ones I use most often), then store the cut parts and remnants flat until needed.

  • Members
Posted

I'm working on a belt now and tried 3M clear packing tape for the first time. It doesn't want to stay stuck to the cased leather. I put it on dry. I was trying it because I usually use rubber cement to stick the leather to a piece of thin acrylic but it leaves a residue when I remove it. Any suggestions? Maybe my tape is not as sticky as it should be. I bought 3M to make sure that I was getting "good" tape.

Posted

I had a small item to tool a short time ago and decided it would be a good idea to glue it to a piece of hardboard to make it easier to handle. I used rubber cement ... used to the kind that stationery stores sell, and peels off nicely. Well, I used Tandy Rubber Cement by Barge! (Craftsman #S-5274) It does not peel off easily. I had to slice it off the board when I was finished. A couple drips on my desk didn't peel or roll off nicely either.

So if anyone is intending to use rubber cement for a temporary application, get the stationery store kind.

Posted (edited)

My favorite "rubber cement" has always been the Elmers brand used for photo mounting.You can get it almost anywhere....even Walgreens.

Edited by pabloz

Paul Zalesak

Leather Wranglers Inc.

www.leatherwranglers.com

Posted

I'm working on a belt now and tried 3M clear packing tape for the first time. It doesn't want to stay stuck to the cased leather. I put it on dry. I was trying it because I usually use rubber cement to stick the leather to a piece of thin acrylic but it leaves a residue when I remove it. Any suggestions? Maybe my tape is not as sticky as it should be. I bought 3M to make sure that I was getting "good" tape.

3M is about the best, although I got a roll a couple of months ago that didn't stick real well. Got a new roll and it is fine.

Terry

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

Here is the way we have been doing it at King's for about 20 years:

Try casing the leather first. This is by soaking in water for a few minutes then stretching with a glass slicker(or wood). Rub in all directions on most projects, on belts just go down the length a few times. After doing this, rubber cement it to plexiglass or lexon(basicly the same thing). Use Barge RUBBER Cememt, not Barge Cement. The rubber cement is in a light blue and white can, not the yellow and red can. You don't need to glue or tape belts if you case them properly, but the thin leather is a must on most small items.

It doesn't matter what leather you are using, it is going to stretch when stamping if you do not prestretch it, that is what the slicker does. Tape will work, but the leather should be dry when applying. This is why we like to use rubber cement. When you apply it to wet leather, it sticks just well enough to hold it to the plexi, but still rubs off nicely after the leather drying out.

Just giving you another option than tape.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I use the thickest shelf paper I can find, the stuff wives buy to line shelves in kitchen cabinets. It works great for me, easy to cut, sticks well and comes off with no residue. My goods don't stretch with shelf paper. I keep a roll on my wall in the shop.

Ken

"Life's too short to carry ugly leather"

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