Proper Way To Dip Dye

[Kcinnick]

I am looking for the proper way to dip dye leather. I often see the dip dye method recommended, but is their a standard regimen to go from natural veg tan to a nicely dyed and finished product. Funny, in all the holster and belt making books I have purchased, none of them describe finishing anything other than the edges.

Thanks,

Nick

[Dwight]

Wellllllllll, . . . you won't get a basic black that way.

Finish is nothing more than personal preference, . . . and at least as far back as the Revolutionary war, . . . leather was dyed if for no other reason, . . . to identify the nation from which the soldier came.

Mostly I dip dye, . . . because my customers do not like raw leather, . . . they like dark brown, black, black cherry, sunburst, and others. So do I.

Oh, . . . and I do dip dye.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Eaglestroker]

Practice, practice, practice. I've only been messing with this leather hobby since January of this year and am just now getting consistent dye jobs. I'm not saying I do it 'properly,' but I use 3 large sealed cake pans. Light brown, dark brown, and black. Dip until even, buff off the excess and allow to dry - I do all of this outside with a mask on. This is one I'm most pleased with as I didn't think it was possible to get light colors with the dip dying before.

Note that I've used an airbrush successfully as well. My beef was that it didn't have any penetration. Once it got scratched up the color was gone - I can groove a stitch line after dip dying and maintain the same color. Not so much of an issue with an IWB or concealed holster but I wear several of mine on the farm and wasn't happy with how they aged. It's a shame because I think the brush gives the best LOOKING results bar none. I hope this helps some but as with anything your results may vary.

[Treed]

Dying leather is one of the hardest things in the industry to master. There are as many ways as there are leather workers and as long as you get the results that you want then they work. I have some basics that seem to help in the dye process.

1. Dye is a powder that is suspended in a liquid base, this is what allows it to absorb into the leather.

2. Leather has different absorption rates depending on a large number of factors. The tanning process, the batch of leather, outside influences ( molding, oils, handling, etc.), where it is cut from on the hide, type of dyes used, etc.

3. Leather is a material that is made up of fibers. As the leather is worked; hammered, molded, rubbed and any other numerous process some intentional and others unintentional the fibers are compressed and tightened. When this happens it affects the absorption of the dye into the leather.

When I am going to dye a piece I try to dye the item as soon as possible before assembly to exclude as many problems as possible. I inspect the leather for any problem areas that I might have and degrease of clean the leather. There are many products that accomplish this. Oxalic acid, lemon juice, or commercial products. This takes off the oils and other products that may have come into contact with the leather during handling at the tannery, cutting, or just laying around the shop. I then give the leather a dip in clear water or wipe down the leather with a wet sponge to open up the pours of the leather. There are many views as to how wet the leather needs to be, I usually give it a fair dunk and then let it dry back to almost the natural color before I proceed with dying.

I usually dip dye most products. I use plastic tubs as I have found that they are easier to clean and maintain. I prepare my work area next. I like the blue shop towels that they sell at auto stores. They are strong, great absorption and don't leave any impressions or marks on the leather when it is wet. I usually tear off three or four sheets and set them next to the tub that I am using. I also have next to the tub a spray bottle of denatured alcohol for clean up. As the leather is cased and ready for the dye I dip it in, depending on the color wanted for a time. The time in the dye depends on the color, dye used, leather etc. and comes from trial and error. I usually remove it at the first signs of bubbles in the dye.

I have found that the next step is one of the most important. As I have stated the leather will absorb differently on the project. I remove the item from the dye and set it onto the table. As you observe the item you will notice that different areas will absorb quicker than other areas. At this time when at least half of the leather has absorbed the dye I take one of the shop towels and remove the excess dye. When removing the excess I do it with a circular rubbing motion and actually buff the leather. The reason for this is that as the leather lays there any excess dye will also lay there until it is absorbed. If one area has more dye than another you will get a darker spot. Another reason is that leather will only absorb so much liquid, as the excess is laying there the liquid base will evaporate leaving behind the powder dye that will dry on the outside of the leather. This is what causes the color rub off that comes with dyed leather.

As I leave the leather to dry I will keep checking the color process. At times I will find areas that have not absorbed enough dye, this is usually because the fibers were compressed in this area for what ever reason, or that I did not get the leather cleaned, After I have determined the reason I will then used a dauber and reapply dye to the problem area and allow it to puddle for a short time before buffing it off and feathering it into the surrounding area. A problem area may take more than once to fix.

I then let the leather dry for a full 24 hours under a fan before I decide if it is what I want or if I need to add more color. When I am done with the dye I pour the dye back into the bottle, spray the tub with denatured alcohol and wipe it clean with the shop towels and I am done.

I hope that this make some sense, I guess I should put it into a video it I can make the time one of these days.

Bobby

[Kcinnick]

Awesome reply, but I still have questions

Do you dilute the dies with anything?

Why die are you using, I was planning on purchasing fiebings oil dies.

Thanks,

Nick

[Treed]

I use Feblings Oil Dye. Most of the items I make are for outdoor use, hunting, horses, racing, etc. I have been using some of the ecoflow all in one for some books and albums with pretty good luck, gives a real rich finish but very little penetration. With the oil dyes if I have to dilute the dye then I use denatured alcohol.

Bobby