Moderator Art Posted November 30, 2011 Moderator Report Posted November 30, 2011 Thread your machine up exactly as when you are having trouble. Take a very high resolution picture front on, same type of picture of the hook. Specify: Needle size and system Thread type and size both top and bobbin Material being sewn What material you were sewing before (when it worked), type of needle and thread etc. Art Hey everyone! I have been away. Got the machine back and it worked fine for a wile. I had to use it for some work what had to be done and now a new project came up. And the problem that hunted me is back. Need HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Before i take a job to the sewing machine i make a sample ( every time) to see how the stitch is working with the fabric. So i make the sample and from it i see that the thread that comes from the bobbin witch i have tensioned to the max is seeable from the sample. That's not axeptable. It hase to be so that you see only the uper thread from the top of the sample. To enyone know what the problem is and how to fix it??????? Have to make a foto from the sample and show it to you guys. The machine is a FLAT BED COMPOUND FEED HEAVY DUTY LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE from TAKING. TK-1245 SINGLE NEEDLE - WITH CENTRAL RESERVOIR LUBRICATION AND HOOK LUBRICATION LARGE VERTICAL SEWING HOOK WITH A 60% LARGER BOBBIN THREAD CAPACITY THAN STANDARD SIZE HOOKS. Max fabric thickness - 14mm. Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members Drognan Posted December 2, 2011 Author Members Report Posted December 2, 2011 So. I checked my sampel when i haden't a prob. and it turns around that it wasent wixed. If i took a closer look it revealed that the porb. is there as you can see on the picture. Note to me: have to buy some biger lihting to the room. Specs from the etc: I use Schmetz size 22 neadle given to me by the mechanic where it was fixed. Apparently NOT! with a thread of Serafil size 20 My project needs an automotive lether witch stretches a liddle. Hase the same amount of thickness as the black leather. Next: To the machine it self. From the front Back side Side few What does the black gnob that can be turned around on the dop to exactly??? The walking woot in the UP right position And in the DOWN right position. And if hte woot is pulled down. It isent wlat with the table. Strange. Have a bobbin that came with the machine. Havent changed it. The case that it will go on the mahćhine. A pic from the down side of the machine. Maybe it helps. Now to the setings. Made it to number 5. The threating of the machine.. Tentioning is at the max. Then i took the uper threads and the bobbins tentioning to the lowest and started to work with them till i had something what i liked. At first it made that wierd seam. Then i noticed that i have to change the bobbins thread to something visible. I chose white. And sew again and tentioned all the time till i got it to the point i couldn't make any adjustments. Deamn. Have no pic from what i ended up with. Forgot the sample to a friends house. Have to get it back. I will but it up tonight. So the problem is that the bobbins thread needs to pull a liddle more to take the uper thread down and it dosent to this because its at the maximum of the tention. Sorry if i have a bad writing. Quote
Moderator Art Posted December 2, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 2, 2011 You are pulling the thread off the spool by unrolling it. The thread needs to exit the top of the spool going up to the thread guide above the spool and down to the thread guide that sticks up on the top of the machine then down to the guides that go to the tensioner. Also, back off your top tension. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members Drognan Posted December 6, 2011 Author Members Report Posted December 6, 2011 You where right. I found it myself too. It is now fixed and i can continiue with the work. Thank you Art for your knowledge and time. Best wishes Drognan! Quote
CowboyBob Posted December 7, 2011 Report Posted December 7, 2011 It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot. Bob Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Moderator Art Posted December 7, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 7, 2011 Bob, I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point? Art It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot. Bob Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
CowboyBob Posted December 7, 2011 Report Posted December 7, 2011 Bob, I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point? Art Art, You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle. Bob Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted December 7, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Bob, ... the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point? Art I have a small box full of leftover needles, in 134 R and LR and 134-35 LR. The 134 R and 134 LR needles are 1.5 inches long and 34 mm from the top of the shank to the eye. The 134-35 LR measure 1 5/8 inches stem to stern, and are 38 mm from the top to the eye. Both systems appear to have the same diameter shank: about 5/64" I'm not sure which were for the Pfaff zigzag head I used to own, and which were used on my 96k40, perhaps with the needle bar raised. Edited December 7, 2011 by Wizcrafts Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted December 7, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 7, 2011 Art, You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle. Bob What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Moderator Art Posted December 7, 2011 Moderator Report Posted December 7, 2011 Hi Bob, If he is using a 134 (I missed that) then indeed the needle is about 5mm too short and the mechanic lowered the needle bar to compensate. I think he is from Estonia, and I suspect that sewing machines and their care and feeding might not be as plentiful as here. I should not be suprised, as I have seen numerous instances of folks thinking the 134 and the 134-35 are the same needle. Nice to know the 134-35 crosses to the 135x16 and 135x17 as I have many different points and sizes in that, but only one or two in the 134-35. When Drognan first came on the board (and this was a while ago) he was asking about a busted thread guide on his new nachine, and I assumed it happened in shipping. Now everything kind of makes sense and the broken guide was probably from crashing the presser foot. I hope we haven't confused him with our discussion, but he really should get the needle/needlebar issue fixed. Art Art, You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle. Bob Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.