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Posted

Thread your machine up exactly as when you are having trouble. Take a very high resolution picture front on, same type of picture of the hook.

Specify:

Needle size and system

Thread type and size both top and bobbin

Material being sewn

What material you were sewing before (when it worked), type of needle and thread etc.

Art

Hey everyone!

I have been away. Got the machine back and it worked fine for a wile. I had to use it for some work what had to be done and now a new project came up. And the problem that hunted me is back. Need HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Before i take a job to the sewing machine i make a sample ( every time) to see how the stitch is working with the fabric. So i make the sample and from it i see that the thread that comes from the bobbin witch i have tensioned to the max is seeable from the sample. That's not axeptable. It hase to be so that you see only the uper thread from the top of the sample. To enyone know what the problem is and how to fix it??????? Have to make a foto from the sample and show it to you guys.

The machine is a FLAT BED COMPOUND FEED HEAVY DUTY LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINE from TAKING.

TK-1245 SINGLE NEEDLE - WITH CENTRAL RESERVOIR LUBRICATION AND HOOK LUBRICATION

LARGE VERTICAL SEWING HOOK WITH A 60% LARGER BOBBIN THREAD CAPACITY THAN STANDARD SIZE HOOKS.

Max fabric thickness - 14mm.

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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Posted

So. I checked my sampel when i haden't a prob. and it turns around that it wasent wixed. If i took a closer look it revealed that the porb. is there as you can see on the picture.

091978564230e8.jpg

Note to me: have to buy some biger lihting to the room.

Specs from the etc:

I use Schmetz size 22 neadle given to me by the mechanic where it was fixed. Apparently NOT!

09197850440808.jpg

with a thread of Serafil size 20

09197850698637.jpg

My project needs an automotive lether witch stretches a liddle. Hase the same amount of thickness as the black leather.

09197856880db0.jpg

Next: To the machine it self. From the front

09197849036463.jpg

Back side

0919785382a848.jpg

091978540e0e6c.jpg

Side few

0919785102dfd6.jpg

091978512d9110.jpg

09197851447b3a.jpg

What does the black gnob that can be turned around on the dop to exactly???

The walking woot in the UP right position

091978556ccb38.jpg

And in the DOWN right position.

091978560e22a8.jpg

And if hte woot is pulled down. It isent wlat with the table. Strange.

091978502361e2.jpg

Have a bobbin that came with the machine. Havent changed it.

091978520e6e80.jpg

0919785249cc6f.jpg

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The case that it will go on the mahćhine.

09197853271d05.jpg

A pic from the down side of the machine. Maybe it helps.

0919607598bf32.jpg

0919607615e234.jpg

Now to the setings. Made it to number 5.

0919784921c8ae.jpg

The threating of the machine.. Tentioning is at the max.

091978494a734b.jpg

Then i took the uper threads and the bobbins tentioning to the lowest and started to work with them till i had something what i liked.

At first it made that wierd seam.

09197854226648.jpg

Then i noticed that i have to change the bobbins thread to something visible. I chose white. And sew again and tentioned all the time till i got it to the point i couldn't make any adjustments.

091978570fec95.jpg

Deamn. Have no pic from what i ended up with. Forgot the sample to a friends house. Have to get it back. I will but it up tonight.

So the problem is that the bobbins thread needs to pull a liddle more to take the uper thread down and it dosent to this because its at the maximum of the tention. Sorry if i have a bad writing.

  • Moderator
Posted

You are pulling the thread off the spool by unrolling it. The thread needs to exit the top of the spool going up to the thread guide above the spool and down to the thread guide that sticks up on the top of the machine then down to the guides that go to the tensioner.

Also, back off your top tension.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

Posted

It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot.

Bob

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

  • Moderator
Posted

Bob,

I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot.

Bob

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

Posted

Bob,

I agree that maybe the needle bar could be raised up some (I think the presser foot was lifted in the pic you mention), but the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

toledo-banner-2.jpg

  • Moderator
Posted (edited)

Bob,

... the correct system for this machine is 134-35 I think (well it looks like a Pfaff), so 134-35R for round point and 134-35LR for leather point?

Art

I have a small box full of leftover needles, in 134 R and LR and 134-35 LR.

The 134 R and 134 LR needles are 1.5 inches long and 34 mm from the top of the shank to the eye.

The 134-35 LR measure 1 5/8 inches stem to stern, and are 38 mm from the top to the eye.

Both systems appear to have the same diameter shank: about 5/64"

I'm not sure which were for the Pfaff zigzag head I used to own, and which were used on my 96k40, perhaps with the needle bar raised.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Moderator
Posted

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

What common machines are supposed to use system 134? The shank diameter seems wider than DBx257 (1157?) I used in my old 96k.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Moderator
Posted

Hi Bob,

If he is using a 134 (I missed that) then indeed the needle is about 5mm too short and the mechanic lowered the needle bar to compensate. I think he is from Estonia, and I suspect that sewing machines and their care and feeding might not be as plentiful as here. I should not be suprised, as I have seen numerous instances of folks thinking the 134 and the 134-35 are the same needle. Nice to know the 134-35 crosses to the 135x16 and 135x17 as I have many different points and sizes in that, but only one or two in the 134-35.

When Drognan first came on the board (and this was a while ago) he was asking about a busted thread guide on his new nachine, and I assumed it happened in shipping. Now everything kind of makes sense and the broken guide was probably from crashing the presser foot. I hope we haven't confused him with our discussion, but he really should get the needle/needlebar issue fixed.

Art

Art,

You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long

are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle.

Bob

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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