Black Thread Fraying

[steelhawk]

I have noticed that with my new machine, that the black thread I am using is frayed after sewing. I did not notice this with the white thread. I even closely examined the white stitching and don't see any fraying.

Am I using cheap thread for the black. It is a different brand than the white thread. Is there better thread, or is black a problem?

[Treed]

I have noticed that with my new machine, that the black thread I am using is frayed after sewing. I did not notice this with the white thread. I even closely examined the white stitching and don't see any fraying.

Am I using cheap thread for the black. It is a different brand than the white thread. Is there better thread, or is black a problem?

I just had the same thing happen. I grabbed the wrong black thread and it was to large for the needle that I had in the machine. Are the black and the white thread the same size?

Bobby R

Edited December 7, 2011 by Treed

[steelhawk]

The thread appears to be the same size as the white thread, and also the brown thread I just got. The brown thread works just fine. All three say 277 on the spool. The black is by AH Brands, and it looks like they may be out of business.

[Northmount]

1323221203[/url]' post='223252']

I have noticed that with my new machine, that the black thread I am using is frayed after sewing. I did not notice this with the white thread. I even closely examined the white stitching and don't see any fraying.

Am I using cheap thread for the black. It is a different brand than the white thread. Is there better thread, or is black a problem?

Did you use bonded thread? Thread that is not bonded tends to fray and unravel easier. I recently (accidentally) purchased a pound of unbonded thread, so I have lots to practice with now!

[steelhawk]

I don't know if it is bonded or not. I don't know how to tell, if there is a way, or how to find out, since I can't seem to find AH Brands anywhere that works. Their website is gone and the phone number I found is disconnected.

I will have to buy a spool from someplace else so I can finish up some things.

[Northmount]

1324769335[/url]' post='226010']

I don't know if it is bonded or not. I don't know how to tell, if there is a way, or how to find out, since I can't seem to find AH Brands anywhere that works. Their website is gone and the phone number I found is disconnected.

I will have to buy a spool from someplace else so I can finish up some things.

When you cut the thread, does the end begin to unravel, especially if you roll it between your fingers a little? If so, it's unbonded. Usually says on the spool label (if it's still there).

[steelhawk]

They all appear to be bonded, so maybe the black is bad. I'm going to order a new spool when I place my next order from Springfield.

[lws380]

Check to make sure there are no small burrs on the hole in the foot that the needle goes through. I had a small burr at one time and it really only created problems if I sewed faster for a belt. It was very tiny, but enough to screw up the thread. I just cut a small strip of 400 grit sand paper and sawed it back on forth in the hole and it was gone. Make sure to cover the plate with something to keep sand paper dust and stuff out of the lower part of the machine.

[George B]

Had a similar problem a while back. Black thread fraying up some on the stitches, no other color, just the black. All thread was from the same maker and all the same size #277 with #207 on the bobbin with a size 200 needle. Also had a problem with kinks and cutting of thread on back-stitches in the black only, even with the #207 on top and bottom.

Switched to a #230 needle with #277 thread and this corrected the cutting stitches problem but not the others. Finally called the maker of the thread and asked if possibly I received bad thread in both sizes. Technical support told me that due to the dying of black thread it becomes much stiffer and can have problems with fraying and kinking.

They told me to use my lube pot with silicone lube.

I also reduced the tension on top and this seems to be working just fine.

[steelhawk]

lws380, a burr possibility had occurred to me, but I don't think there is one, as brown and white are going through the machine just fine.

George, I am using 277 on top and in the bobbin. For holsters and belts, should I be using 207 in the bobbin? I am very new to sewing with a machine.

Also, I don't know what the needle size numbers you referenced mean. The packages I have show 23, 24 and 25 as sizes. I am using 25, the largest.

What is a lube pot?

[George B]

lws380, a burr possibility had occurred to me, but I don't think there is one, as brown and white are going through the machine just fine.

George, I am using 277 on top and in the bobbin. For holsters and belts, should I be using 207 in the bobbin? I am very new to sewing with a machine.

Also, I don't know what the needle size numbers you referenced mean. The packages I have show 23, 24 and 25 as sizes. I am using 25, the largest.

What is a lube pot?

Hello, In saddle school we used #277 on top and #207 on the bottom, some use the same for both. I was told you have to consider the amount of thread that will go into the hole made by the needle. On some belts I will go to #207 on top and #207 on the bobbin, just depends on the thickness of the leather and the width of the belt, but on holsters I always use #277 on top and #207 on the bobbin. Keep in mind I have only been doing this for a couple of years and still learning.

I use a Artisan Toro 4000, the needle sizes are 794s and the difference between the 200 size and 230 size if the diameter of the hole they make, not sure about your sizes.

A lube pot normally mounts on top of the machine and the top thread travels through it before going into the first tension disc. The thread is then lubricated as it passes through and is supposed to relax the stiffness of the black thread.

I would first call the company that makes your stitcher and ask them what they recommend, it should be something they are familiar with.

Hope this helps, George