Sharpening A Stitching Groover

[BobH]

First, I might not be using correct terms because I am a beginner to the craft. I've got a bunch of tools (given to me) but only a little knowledge. One of the tools that I did NOT get in the generous gift from my brother, an adjustable stitching groover like the one pictured on this web page: My link.

After re-reading Stohlman's The Art of Hand Sewing Leather I decided I needed one. What I received was in a package with a Tandy label in the plastic bag (but I didn't buy from Tandy directly). As with the other tools in my kit, I practice with them to try to learn how they work and how I should use them. Although instruction would be far better than my trial and error approach, there is none available to me locally that I'm aware of. In trying to use this tool, I was pretty much stymied. I have a v-groove cutter that is shaped similar to a musical instrument maker's finger plane, and I have one that has a U-channel in the tip of the tool and another like that that cuts a V-groove. Those I think I'm using correctly. IT is this offset, adjustable groover that has me stymied.

I took a piece of veg tanned 8 or 9 oz cowhide scrap to use the tool with. I first squared up the edges of the scrap so that I could rest the tool on the edge. I then tried to figure out how the tool works. At first, I thought that it had been shipped without a blade. Checking back in my book references, I decided that the black bar that runs through the top of the shaft is the cutter. I found a very minor burr on the edge of the little bit bent at 90 degrees. The burr is not at all sharp. In dry leather, it barely made a mark and the one it did make was more a scratch than a cut groove. In wet leather (not soaking but dampened according to instructions I've read on this forum and elsewhere) it only crushed the leather without cutting anything at all.

Because I've never even seen this tool used, I don't know whether my expectations were correct; but I thought it would cut a small groove in which stitching threads would lie and not protrude above the surface of the leather. I didn't get the anticipated results, so I then questioned my use of the tool; but have no reference to know if I used it correctly or not. Finally, I questioned whether or not the tool might be defective in some way . . . for example, is the burr I discovered really the action part of the tool and is it correctly formed?

Before leaping to the wrong conclusion (I've got the bruises and broken bones to show for a lifetime of having done so) and before destroying the tool, I thought I'd ask the experts here about this tool and my expectations. Also, what should the cutting blade look and feel like? If it is defective, I can send this one back for credit; but I'd like to know what to expect just in case I run into one in the wild and can better judge whether or not to buy it. Do they ever need sharpening? What sort of edge should the blade have? How would one form and hone that shape?

Yes, I ran a search on the tool and on sharpening. I found lots of interesting and useful stuff, but didn't find the answer to these questions. Like I said, it might be because I don't know enough to made a decent search argument and dumb enough that I might not recognize a good answer. If you need to rub my nose in it, please feel free. Just know that you won't be the first.

[radar67]

The angle you hold the tool is important. Tandy has a video on their site that shows how to use this tool. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/Leathercraft-Videos/Pro-Stitching-Groover-88081-00/Pro-Stitching-Groove-88081-00.aspx . I use a strop to keep the edge in shape, it will last a long time doing this. To resharpen the blade, you would have to use a jewelers file. Personally, I order a new blade when it gets that bad.

[Spinner]

Hey Bob,

The cutter should have come "sharp" out of the package. At the end of the black bar it's bent 90* and the tip has a small hole drilled in it and the tip below the hole has been ground to leave the lowest edge of the hole with a cutting edge. What the books and tool package don't tell you is that on this particular model you need to lean the tool back a bit in order to get that hole edge to hit the leather. It is kind of a pain to get it right but that edge can be stropped so get it a bit sharper.

So just to be clear, the tool should be arranged so the 90* bend is to the left of the leather's edge, tilt the tool handle back (towards the cutting direction) about 30* and then pull bag with just a touch of pressure. If everything goes right, you should see a string of leather come out of the little hole and keep going as you run around the edge of the piece.

As far as quality goes, this is the most basic groover there is and it's definitely a get what you pay for tool. Tandy does offer a better version for about $5 more that makes a lot more sense. The cutter is at the end of the handle and the edge guide is the adjustable with bar. It gives you more control and the tips are more easily replaceable. It also comes with a creaser tip as well. Althernatively, there is a freehand stitch groover that is simply a pen sized shaft with a grrove style cutter formed at the tip. Due to the lack of guide bar, it allows you to groove a stitch anywhere on the piece and you manually guide it with templates, freehand or along the edge of a ruler.

Cheers,

Chris

[markush]

I'll just add that I too received the Tandy groover you have and I also didn't order it from Tandy. Mine arrived with a blade that was not sharp at all and the best I could get it to do was skitter along making an uneven groove. instead of trying to figure out how to sharpen a brand new blade I just order ordered a replacement blade. If we ordered from the same place and you decide to try a replacement blade from them pay attention as they list two different size blades. Mine uses the larger "saddle makers" blade and even though I stated that when ordering, they sent me the smaller blade. Another phone call got me the correct blade. Thankfully that one came sharp enough to make a decent groove.

Edited December 12, 2011 by markush

[BobH]

Thanks for the information, folks!

I'm certain that the combination of me not knowing how to use the tool properly and what might possibly be a bad blade lead me far astray.

You've set me on the right course. I'll keep at it until I've mastered it.]

Thanks again!!!!!

[Art]

Hi Bob,

I have many of the old "first" version of that tool that I have set to different depths to do multiple line parallel borders.

I recently bought a few more of them and found the quality control to be abyssimal. The holes were drilled every which way but usable. I have noticed this kind of perfomance in the last few years. Tandy would take them back, but a trip to a Tandy is 2 hours each way and shipping is as much as the tools cost.

If my experience is any indication, there is every chance you might have a tool that was manufactured incorrectly.

When that tool is well made, it is extremely easy to use.

Art

First, I might not be using correct terms because I am a beginner to the craft. I've got a bunch of tools (given to me) but only a little knowledge. One of the tools that I did NOT get in the generous gift from my brother, an adjustable stitching groover like the one pictured on this web page: My link.

After re-reading Stohlman's The Art of Hand Sewing Leather I decided I needed one. What I received was in a package with a Tandy label in the plastic bag (but I didn't buy from Tandy directly). As with the other tools in my kit, I practice with them to try to learn how they work and how I should use them. Although instruction would be far better than my trial and error approach, there is none available to me locally that I'm aware of. In trying to use this tool, I was pretty much stymied. I have a v-groove cutter that is shaped similar to a musical instrument maker's finger plane, and I have one that has a U-channel in the tip of the tool and another like that that cuts a V-groove. Those I think I'm using correctly. IT is this offset, adjustable groover that has me stymied.

I took a piece of veg tanned 8 or 9 oz cowhide scrap to use the tool with. I first squared up the edges of the scrap so that I could rest the tool on the edge. I then tried to figure out how the tool works. At first, I thought that it had been shipped without a blade. Checking back in my book references, I decided that the black bar that runs through the top of the shaft is the cutter. I found a very minor burr on the edge of the little bit bent at 90 degrees. The burr is not at all sharp. In dry leather, it barely made a mark and the one it did make was more a scratch than a cut groove. In wet leather (not soaking but dampened according to instructions I've read on this forum and elsewhere) it only crushed the leather without cutting anything at all.

Because I've never even seen this tool used, I don't know whether my expectations were correct; but I thought it would cut a small groove in which stitching threads would lie and not protrude above the surface of the leather. I didn't get the anticipated results, so I then questioned my use of the tool; but have no reference to know if I used it correctly or not. Finally, I questioned whether or not the tool might be defective in some way . . . for example, is the burr I discovered really the action part of the tool and is it correctly formed?

Before leaping to the wrong conclusion (I've got the bruises and broken bones to show for a lifetime of having done so) and before destroying the tool, I thought I'd ask the experts here about this tool and my expectations. Also, what should the cutting blade look and feel like? If it is defective, I can send this one back for credit; but I'd like to know what to expect just in case I run into one in the wild and can better judge whether or not to buy it. Do they ever need sharpening? What sort of edge should the blade have? How would one form and hone that shape?

Yes, I ran a search on the tool and on sharpening. I found lots of interesting and useful stuff, but didn't find the answer to these questions. Like I said, it might be because I don't know enough to made a decent search argument and dumb enough that I might not recognize a good answer. If you need to rub my nose in it, please feel free. Just know that you won't be the first.

[reddevil76]

Hi Bob, before we complicate things further and talk about sharpening blades and such, I think its better for you to ascertain that you are using the tool correctly.

I say this because I had the exact same experience when i received this tool. That burr you are talking about is not part of the operations.

The one that cuts a groove is that tiny hole in the black bar. I suggest you take a look at the free videos on tandy's site to see how to use it, a video is worth 10 thousand words

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com.au/en-aud/home/infoandservices/Leathercraft-Videos/Leathercraft-Videos.aspx

[mlapaglia]

You might want to get "LeathercraftToolsby Al Stohlman. IT has instructions for almost all the tools used in leather crafting.

The picture below shows how to hold and use the Crafttool stitching Groover you are talking about.

Michael

[charlescrawford]

I have run into the same issue I have read the books I am using the groover correctly. Mine from Tandy came with two blades a short blade that goes into the int and another blade that's much longer and in a L shape. L shape is as sharp as a plastic knife without the teeth. The smaller one was dull as hell from the start and I can't seem to clear leather from the hole. I make mainly holsters and I have gotten 2 pro groovers and this has happened on both. Is there a difference between the the saddle makers groover tandem does and the pro or is that one gonna be crap to? I just need something that works.

[BDAZ]

I have had good luck with a fine diamond needle file in the hole and then I push the "groover" along the edge of my strop with green, then white "rouge". It cuts effortlessly.

Cya!

Bob

[Crimson Hides]

I did the same as what BDAZ did. Running the tip of my groover along a white "rouge" leather surface. Do note that you are going the opposite direction as how you would normally groove the leather. When you see a mirror finish, it is going to cut like butter. Tried doing the same on a grit 1000 sandpaper and end up ruining the tip.

[Boriqua]

I got the tandy and was using it correctly but it acted like a creaser. It was stone dull and tandy has decided they will paint over all their cutting edges so you have to remove the paint first before you can actually work on the edge.

I started with a fine emery board to profile the tip since mine came all uneven. Then I had to push it several times along the three sides on a black stone. Once I had a usable, starting to cut tool, I took a toothpick and loaded it in my dremel. I then loaded it up with Rouge inserted in the hole and polished away. I took a small dremel buffing wheel and polished the outside three sides of the cutting tool. Then as a last step I loaded up a fairly soft thick piece of leather with rouge and pushed it across further polishing the cutting edge from the outside. It now slides through the leather effortlessly. At this point an occasional hit with the toothpick and some pushing on the outside against my rouge loaded leather strip and it stays lickety split sharp.

[5 Spice]

I got the tandy and was using it correctly but it acted like a creaser. It was stone dull and tandy has decided they will paint over all their cutting edges so you have to remove the paint first before you can actually work on the edge.

I started with a fine emery board to profile the tip since mine came all uneven. Then I had to push it several times along the three sides on a black stone. Once I had a usable, starting to cut tool, I took a toothpick and loaded it in my dremel. I then loaded it up with Rouge inserted in the hole and polished away. I took a small dremel buffing wheel and polished the outside three sides of the cutting tool. Then as a last step I loaded up a fairly soft thick piece of leather with rouge and pushed it across further polishing the cutting edge from the outside. It now slides through the leather effortlessly. At this point an occasional hit with the toothpick and some pushing on the outside against my rouge loaded leather strip and it stays lickety split sharp.

Toothpick.....brilliant.